How easy is it to replace the seals??

If it is the same as the 3VZE ('88-'95)-- and I believe it is -- the front crankshaft seal is in the oil pump assembly. As such, the oil pump needs to be pulled in order to replace the seal. For my '88, at least, this means dropping the oil pan (in order to access the bolts for removing the sump) which, in turn, means pulling the front differential. I have done all of this because mine has lots of miles on it, it gave me a chance to inspect/clean/repair the oil pump, pan, etc. and -- most importantly -- my seal was definitely leaking.

I would recommend pulling the front crankshaft timing pulley off once you have removed the belt (it should slide off easily with a screwdriver under each side) and visually check the seal. If it looks good and is not leaking, I think I would leave well enough alone. Ditto for the camshaft seals (you shouldn't have to pull the pulleys to get a good look at these) - mine have right at 300K miles on them and are not leaking a drop.

Take a good look at the idler bearings while the belt is off and consider replacing them if they show any sign of slack or wear. You can get the two of them for just over $100 - so, it may make sense. In reality, they should probably make it another 100K without any trouble though.

You shouldn't need any special tools other than a nice breaker bar for cracking that crankshaft bolt (hint: lay it against the frame and tap the starter, with ignition disabled, to break the bolt) unless you decide you want to pull the camshaft pulleys and then you will need something to hold them. I haven't checked the procedure for replacing the front camshaft seals, so I cannot comment on what it takes with regard to tools and time - but, I have stripped my engine down pretty far before and that didn't look like a place I wanted to go unless I absolutely had to.

Luther

Ken,

I have a 2wd V6 and it was not that bad.. I had the engine front torn apart in about 3 hours the biggest trick is having a long breaker 1/2" breaker bar and a good size crow bar to brace the crankshaft from turning while you break the nut loose. A standard gear puller will work to get the gear off... I would suggest replacing the water pump while you are in there and checking your idler bearings. Mine were all bad, looking at about $100 for all those parts. You will also need new anti-freeze for after the work is done. This work could easily be accomplished in one full day. The front seal I did not try but should only add a couple of hours at worst with the right tools.. I have the factory manuals if you need any info.

Tony