Help! 2000 Tundra Starter Motor Clicks

My Starter motor clicks like the battery is low, solinoid clicks then nothing. after a couple of tries the SM spins and the truck starts like new. A mechanic told me it is an internal problem with the SM contacts and I might as well just install a new SM. Then he told me the SM is under Fuel injection and will require 4 hours of labor and we are looking at a $700 charge. Can this be correct?

all help gratefully accepted, Rich

Reply to
Outlook Rich
Loading thread data ...

Get a second opinion.

Did you check the battery & charging system ?

Good Luck... =AC=AC=AC=AC=AC=AC=AC=AC=AC=AC=AC=AC=AC=AC=AC=AC=AC=AC=AC=AC=AC=AC=AC=AC=AC= =AC=AC=AC=AC=AC=AC

Reply to
W.T. MC GLYNN

I've heard some of the Lexus starters are under the intake manifold so I looked at my 2001 Tundra. I didn't crawl under but looked under the hood and the starter appears to be on the passenger side of the engine below the exhaust manifold. This is a common problem on Toyota starters but because of their design the only major wear item is the contacts and you can r&r the contacts and be trouble free for a long time. If you don't have service info then google and you should find quite a few sites with info. davidj92

Reply to
davidj92

Outlook Rich sez:

Best to rule out the battery first, has it been tested? A bad cell can exhibit this type of symptom.

If it is the starter, yes, it is under the intake plenum and it has to be removed. However, 4 hours seems a bit long. A good wrench that has done it at least once should be able to get the job done in 2 hrs.

Good wrenchin' to ya, VLJ

--

Reply to
vlj

"Outlook Rich" wrote in news: snipped-for-privacy@corp.supernews.com:

It's unusual that a 2000 would have contact wear unless you've got well over 100k on it. My Tacoma gave those symptoms at 150k and I repaired it for under $15. Instead of replacing the whole starter, Toyota sells repair kits with brand new contacts and related parts. If you're able to access and remove the starter (it can be a drag), replacing the contacts is fairly simple. I know they sell the kits for Tacomas so I assume it's true for Tundras. I couldn't get my starter all the way out without bending a brake line but I was able to repair it in place.

Below is what Tacoma contact parts look like (not my website). You have to buy two separate item numbers. You may not need to replace all the parts included. Make sure your starter plunger/spring is mechanically sound or this method won't suffice. During disassembly, a small ball bearing may fly out so do it carefully!

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(parts)
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(overview)

A.R.

Reply to
A.R.

Assuming battery & charging system is OK, that clicking sound is a warning that you'd better remember to wear comfortable walking shoes any time you're in the truck, until you change the starter motor. I can't address the rest of your question, though.

Reply to
Doug Kanter

My oversight, my engine is the 3.4L V6 so it may be different. Went to TundraSolutions, did a search and this is what I found.

  1. On the 4.7L V8 the starter is under the intake.
  2. A couple Toyota Tech's posted the usual time is 2 hrs. labor, parts are -20.
  3. This is a common problem on Toyota starters, there are TSB's issued on some models, there may be one on yours. I also agree with other posters, you need to rule out battery, contacts and charging system first. davidj92
Reply to
davidj92

I assume that by parts, they mean things required OTHER THAN the starter motor itself, right?

Reply to
Doug Kanter
18 Toyota (NipponDenso now called Denso) starter repair sites:

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Starter contact kits (8mm ID hole):

Ace Electric # S-5263 (only two contacts) Ace Electric # S-5264 (only two contacts) Metro # 66-82104 (only two contacts)

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,Pomona,California) Toyota # 28226-72010/80 (battery side)(also1KZTE-2LT-1KZT) Toyota # 28226-72080 (8808-9108) Toyota # 28226-16130 (9108-9308) Toyota # 28226-55050 (9308-9511) Toyota # 28226-70040 (9308-9511) Toyota # 28226-72040 (motor side if needed) Toyota # 28226-72010 (8808-9511) Toyota # 28226-74070 (9108-9511) (2000 Tundra & others) Toyota # 28226-22050 (2000 Tundra & others)

For others besides 22R series:

Toyota # 28226-54220 (motor side) (2LTE, 3L..LN13# IKZTE, 2L#, KZN130,LN108,112,85..4FC) Toyota # 28226-54250 (Diesel Surf 2.4TD, contains a new end cover and gasket) Toyota # 28226-54320 (battery side) (2LTE, 3L..LN13# IKZTE, 2L#, KZN130, LN108,112,85..4FC,3B-1HZ-BJ73-HZJ7#-1KZT-KZJ70) Toyota # 28226-17030 (battery side) (1H#-HDJ80-HZJ80) Toyota # 28226-56250 (battery side) (3B-1HZ-1PZ-PZJ7#)

Starter contacts only (8mm ID hole):

Ace Electric # S-5231 Ace Electric # S-5293 (crescent moon shape) Ace Electric # S-5295 (crescent moon shape) Metro # 66-82106

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,Pomona,California) Tons more at:
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# 28226-70040Wilson's Electric # 45-29-652 (maybe it's 45-29-6521) Starter brushes:

AC Delco # D762 GP Sorensen # 255048 Standard # JX-117

Whether your starter uses two rectangular types or one rectangular and one crescent you can substitute with two squares or one square and one crescent so any of the above part #'s for those kits will be the right ones,or about half of the auto electric shops in your local yellow pages would sell aftermarket contacts for only $5 each or the pair.

If the brake and charge lights come on during revving of the engine then it's a sign that the carbon alternator brushes require replacing as this is the mileage for them to wear out. In alternators the brushes wear out on average every 140-170 000 miles where on the dashboard the brake & charge light both come on at the same time. About half of the auto electric shops in your local yellow pages sell carbon alternator brushes and copper solenoid starter contacts for about $5/pair.Another way to verify that the alternator is not charging is while the engine is running bring a metal screwdriver or any metal object near the alternator and if the alternator is working properly then it should act like a magnet and grab the screwdriver.

For carbon brushes R&R:

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For decoding the dashboard lights:

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Here are part #'s for Toyota alternator carbon brushes and copper solenoid starter contacts which are used in about 95% of all Toyota vehicles.

Toyota alternator Brushes with holder:

Toyota # 27370-35060=3D$29 CDN Honda # 31105-PZ1-003 Metro # 39-82003

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,Pomona,California) Unknown brand name # F4019-53035

Alternator brush only (qty:1 brush unless otherwise stated):

AC Delco # E724 AC Delco # E731 (side wire and concave tip) Ace Electric # DA-61 (brush only),S-5367 (brush holder) Beck Arnley # 178-1669 (side wire and concave tip) Beck Arnley # 178-1376 Borg Warner # X580 (side wire and concave tip) Canadian Tire # 19-2050-6=3D$4.49/pair Daihatsu # 27370-87302-000 Daihatsu # 27371-63020-000 Daihatsu # 27371-87501-000 Daihatsu # 27371-70300-000 Echlin # E601=3D$8.16 CDN/pair (UAP/NAPA) Echlin # ECHE601 Echlin # EC480 Echlin # ECHE480 GP Sorensen # 255047 (side wire and concave tip) GM # 94123056 GM # 96054118 Honda # 31144-PD1-004=3D$9.72 Honda # 31144-PD1-0040 Honda # 31144-PD1-0030 Honda # 31150-PR7-A01 Honda # 31150-PTO-003 Hino Industries # 021660-0390 Hino Industries # 021660-0510 Isuzu # 8-94123-056-0 Isuzu # 8-97032-308-0 Isuzu # 8-97032-310-0 Mazda # 021660-0390 Mazda # 021660-0510 Mazda # KL47-18-W75 Metro # 38-82001(side wire concave tip)

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,Pomona,California) Mileage Plus # E601SB Mitsubishi # MD604474 Mitsubishi # 21660-0510 Niehoff # WA571 (side wire and concave tip) NipponDenso # 021660-0390 NipponDenso # 021660-0510 Standard # JX-116 (side wire and concave tip) Subaru # 021660-0390 Subaru # 021660-0510 Suzuki # 31631-82610 Suzuki # 31656-82611 Suzuki # 021660-0510 Toyota # 27370-42010 Toyota # 27370-75060 Toyota # 27371-63020=3D$5.80 (up to 9105) (side wire and concave tip) Toyota # 27371-70300=3D$5.20 (9105-9511) Toyota # 27371-76004-71 UAP/NAPA # MPEE601SB Victory Lap # FAX57=3D$4.49 CDN/pair (Canadian Tire) Wilson's Electric # 26-29-7534 (side wire and concave tip)=3D$2.20 each CDN (Diesel Auto Electric)(Parts for Trucks,box of 10 for $3.40 CDN)

Specifications: Length=3D15 mm Width=3D7 mm Thickness=3D5 mm Lead length=3D49 mm

These Honda alternators are the same except the pulley must be swapped:

1986-89 Honda Accord (Carb),the EFI can be used but the voltage reg must be swapped 1990-93 Acura Integra

For alternator upgrade:

formatting link
If the brake and charge lights come on during revving of the engine then it's a sign that the carbon alternator brushes require replacing as this is the mileage for them to wear out. In alternators the brushes wear out on average every 140-170 000 miles where on the dashboard the brake & charge light both come on at the same time. About half of the auto electric shops in your local yellow pages sell carbon alternator brushes and copper solenoid starter contacts for about $5/pair.Another way to verify that the alternator is not charging is while the engine is running bring a metal screwdriver or any metal object near the alternator and if the alternator is working properly then it should act like a magnet and grab the screwdriver.

For carbon brushes R&R:

formatting link
?threadid=3D27270&forumid==3D10
formatting link
For decoding the dashboard lights:

formatting link

Here are part #'s for Toyota alternator carbon brushes and copper solenoid starter contacts which are used in about 95% of all Toyota vehicles.

Toyota alternator Brushes with holder:

Toyota # 27370-35060=3D$29 CDN Honda # 31105-PZ1-003 Metro # 39-82003

formatting link
,Pomona,California) Unknown brand name # F4019-53035

Alternator brush only (qty:1 brush unless otherwise stated):

AC Delco # E724 AC Delco # E731 (side wire and concave tip) Ace Electric # DA-61 (brush only),S-5367 (brush holder) Beck Arnley # 178-1669 (side wire and concave tip) Beck Arnley # 178-1376 Borg Warner # X580 (side wire and concave tip) Canadian Tire # 19-2050-6=3D$4.49/pair Daihatsu # 27370-87302-000 Daihatsu # 27371-63020-000 Daihatsu # 27371-87501-000 Daihatsu # 27371-70300-000 Echlin # E601=3D$8.16 CDN/pair (UAP/NAPA) Echlin # ECHE601 Echlin # EC480 Echlin # ECHE480 GP Sorensen # 255047 (side wire and concave tip) GM # 94123056 GM # 96054118 Honda # 31144-PD1-004=3D$9.72 Honda # 31144-PD1-0040 Honda # 31144-PD1-0030 Honda # 31150-PR7-A01 Honda # 31150-PTO-003 Hino Industries # 021660-0390 Hino Industries # 021660-0510 Isuzu # 8-94123-056-0 Isuzu # 8-97032-308-0 Isuzu # 8-97032-310-0 Mazda # 021660-0390 Mazda # 021660-0510 Mazda # KL47-18-W75 Metro # 38-82001(side wire concave tip)

formatting link
,Pomona,California) Mileage Plus # E601SB Mitsubishi # MD604474 Mitsubishi # 21660-0510 Niehoff # WA571 (side wire and concave tip) NipponDenso # 021660-0390 NipponDenso # 021660-0510 Standard # JX-116 (side wire and concave tip) Subaru # 021660-0390 Subaru # 021660-0510 Suzuki # 31631-82610 Suzuki # 31656-82611 Suzuki # 021660-0510 Toyota # 27370-42010 Toyota # 27370-75060 Toyota # 27371-63020=3D$5.80 (up to 9105) (side wire and concave tip) Toyota # 27371-70300=3D$5.20 (9105-9511) Toyota # 27371-76004-71 UAP/NAPA # MPEE601SB Victory Lap # FAX57=3D$4.49 CDN/pair (Canadian Tire) Wilson's Electric # 26-29-7534 (side wire and concave tip)=3D$2.20 each CDN (Diesel Auto Electric)(Parts for Trucks,box of 10 for $3.40 CDN)

Specifications: Length=3D15 mm Width=3D7 mm Thickness=3D5 mm Lead length=3D49 mm

These Honda alternators are the same except the pulley must be swapped:

1986-89 Honda Accord (Carb),the EFI can be used but the voltage reg must be swapped 1990-93 Acura Integra

For alternator upgrade:

formatting link
Sidney=AE =99 Repairs tv's,vcr's,home/car audio out of my home E-mail: snipped-for-privacy@yahoo.com Dartmouth,Nova Scotia Canada

1985 Toyota 4-Runner,solid front straight axle,factory cruise control,sunroof,22R-E,W56,RN60LV-MSEK,rusted rear step/towing chrome bumper with 247 000 KM

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() () ^ () () / \ ^ ^ () () / \ \ ^ / \ | | / \ \ \____________ o o ) | | /_________\___\__\__________|_____|

Reply to
sidneybek

Right, they were talking about just the price on the contacts. Most of the posts stated it was only necessary to do just the contacts, a few posts talked about r&r the complete starter, don't remember any pricing on that if any. One experienced toyota tech talked about doing a challenge (disassemble starter, r&r the contacts and reassemble the starter) with an with an ego-inflated young tech just out of school. Claimed he did this in 18 minutes so I'm guessing the labor rate would only appx 1/2 hour for that. davidj92

Reply to
davidj92

They'd probably still charge according to "the book", so it would be $1,219.99. :-)

Reply to
Doug Kanter

I've had various Toyota vehicles since 1980 (Corolla, 4WD truck, etc) and they ALL had recurring starter problems. Eventually I learned that it was just pitting on the copper contacts in the starter solenoid which can be easily taken apart and fixed. I tried two fixes - the quick and easy fix is to take the copper contacts out and file them down nicely so there is a good surface again. Don't forget the copper contact on the plunger circumference as well. I've also tried silver soldering the contacts which was a bit tricky for me, but once filed flat again will give a much longer lasting fix, silver being a harder metal than copper.

I also just had the same problem with a 1990 Chrysler minivan starter. Try to start - click, click, sometimes start. Easy to fix - probably took me an hour, max. The Toyota starters were never in an easy place to get at them, unlike the van. On the Corollas, I had to remove the exhaust manifold each time. On the truck, I had to go in through the wheel well. A bit of a pain, but not a bad way to spend a couple of hours communing with your car.... and a LOT cheaper than buying a new starter or getting Toyota's techs to do whatever they do.

Dave

Reply to
davemcc

I've had various Toyota vehicles since 1980 (Corolla, 4WD truck, etc) and they ALL had recurring starter problems. Eventually I learned that it was just pitting on the copper contacts in the starter solenoid which can be easily taken apart and fixed. I tried two fixes - the quick and easy fix is to take the copper contacts out and file them down nicely so there is a good surface again. Don't forget the copper contact on the plunger circumference as well. I've also tried silver soldering the contacts which was a bit tricky for me, but once filed flat again will give a much longer lasting fix, silver being a harder metal than copper.

I also just had the same problem with a 1990 Chrysler minivan starter. Try to start - click, click, sometimes start. Easy to fix - probably took me an hour, max. The Toyota starters were never in an easy place to get at them, unlike the van. On the Corollas, I had to remove the exhaust manifold each time. On the truck, I had to go in through the wheel well. A bit of a pain, but not a bad way to spend a couple of hours communing with your car.... and a LOT cheaper than buying a new starter or getting Toyota's techs to do whatever they do.

Dave

Reply to
davemcc

I've had various Toyota vehicles since 1980 (Corolla, 4WD truck, etc) and they ALL had recurring starter problems. Eventually I learned that it was just pitting on the copper contacts in the starter solenoid which can be easily taken apart and fixed. I tried two fixes - the quick and easy fix is to take the copper contacts out and file them down nicely so there is a good surface again. Don't forget the copper contact on the plunger circumference as well. I've also tried silver soldering the contacts which was a bit tricky for me, but once filed flat again will give a much longer lasting fix, silver being a harder metal than copper.

I also just had the same problem with a 1990 Chrysler minivan starter. Try to start - click, click, sometimes start. Easy to fix - probably took me an hour, max. The Toyota starters were never in an easy place to get at them, unlike the van. On the Corollas, I had to remove the exhaust manifold each time. On the truck, I had to go in through the wheel well. A bit of a pain, but not a bad way to spend a couple of hours communing with your car.... and a LOT cheaper than buying a new starter or getting Toyota's techs to do whatever they do.

Dave

Reply to
davemcc

snipped-for-privacy@shaw.ca wrote: snip

snip

As I remember the Chrysler starters from years ago you could turn the contact ring over or 180 deg. and get a new surface for a fix also. davidj92

Reply to
davidj92

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