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Lower (not slam) an 88 PU for a custom/driver project?

Hi all, I'm building a 1950 Willys Wagon on an 88 Toyota 1/2 ton V6 5sp 4x4 PU chassis and because of the chassis geometry, it looks like it might sit WAY too high without some serious body modifications (like channeling the entire rust free original floor - I'd like to avoid that). A little lift isn't bad, but this would be nearly undriveable over 35 mph - we're talking something like 6"-8" of lift without doing anything but mounting the body on a stock chassis. That high with stock track would look like a 380lb. gorilla in roller blades going down the road, and I don't intend to widen the track to make it more stable. This is going to be my daily driver, and I do a lot of freeway driving. I'm also trying (if possible) to make the conversion look as stock/natural as possible. Is there a way to lower the suspension geometry on the 88 vintage PU's chassis without totally screwing up the steering and rear brake compensator? Anybody seen any kits available or is this going to be a "learning experience" in every way? I'm not a total newbie at fabricating or I would never undertake this kind of project, but a pre-made kit to drop the chassis a little would make this a lot easier.

Thanks for any insight, - Jeff G

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Reply to
Jeff Gross
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The willys is so desireable, theres got to be folks out there making reproduction chasses for them..

Brian

Reply to
Brian

Pardon me for asking, but why do you want to chop up a perfectly good, rust free 1950 Willys body and chassis just to slide an 88 Toyota chassis under it?

That Willys would be worth a WHOLE LOT more if it's left as close to original and stock as possible, if you do a frame-off-body restoration and rebuild it (and you do it right) the truck should be just as reliable as if you used the Toyota powertrain.

Those were the days when trucks were hewn out of solid steel, and the only way you killed a truck was by driving it off a /very tall/ cliff - drive it off a small cliff, and it'll probably be sitting at the bottom, ready to roll it back onto the tires, start it up, and keep going... (Dents, schments. Gives it character.)

. If you need more power, see what the optional larger engine they used was, and find one - engine swaps with the right parts are simple drop-in, bolt-up, and done. (You might need to change the motor mount towers.) If you want speed parts, find vintage ones and keep the original pieces. If yours is 2WD and you want 4WD, they made them - you can find the right pieces and convert it over.

Keep it complete, and you can always get good money for it later if you need to sell it. And you can always pick up a few grand easily by renting it out for period movie shoots, you can also get a free paint job or the bumpers re-chromed out of the deal... But butcher it, and the historic value goes to nil - you can still sell it, but not quickly to a collector.

And it's not a Willys or Toyota thing - I'd ask the same question of someone who had a perfectly good first-generation IH Scout, early Land Rover, LandCruiser FJ-25 or FJ-40, MB Jeep or first-generation Bronco and wanted to "Monster Garage" it with a 18" lift and put in a blown

460 and 48" tractor tires - Why do you want to F*** up a perfectly good vintage truck?

(The reason I ask the question is to make you think rationally about your answer. If you want to do it anyway, more power to you, it's your truck after all - but go into it with your eyes wide open. It's too late [and too expensive] to go back after you hack it up.)

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Reply to
Bruce L. Bergman

Reply to
Jeff Gross

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