Re: First Oil Change - Synthetic or Conventioal

The part about synthetic causing leaks is BS*. You will have good results with any routine you use, but here's what I do--another oil change @ 1000 miles with conventional oil, then synthetic at 2000 miles. In case there are any break-in particles or manufacturing debris, it's being flushed out with the cheaper oil. I stick with Toyota filters.

Mobil 1 is an excellent choice for oil, and in the summer I use the highest viscosity allowed in the owner's manual. In really hot summer areas and if the engine is worked hard towing, etc., I'd use a synthetic 5W-40 or an API-SL 15W-40 oil. Every 20°F increase in oil temperature results in about one viscosity grade drop in viscosity. In the winter, use 5W-30,or 0W-30 if you're in frigid winter areas. Castrol's imported German 0W-30 is an excellent oil, better than the U.S. Syntec, but not always easy to find.

Synthetic oils are good for the full oil change interval shown in your owner's manual (7500 miles?) and maybe more if you check the condition of the oil with oil analysis.

*After an engine has lots of miles, the previous oil has left deposits inside the engine...carbon, sludge, wear metals, varnish, etc. These usually are not a problem, and I'm not speaking of the bad sludge in certain engines. The carbon and varnish tend to act as a seal and limit oil burning in some cases. When switching to a premium oil with a superior detergent/dispersent package, these deposits can be removed before the new oil has a chance to seal these areas. In this case, there will be excessive oil consumption for one to three oil change intervals.

Ken

I have a 1989 Chevy S-10 Blazer with 4.3 V6 and have used Mobil 1 since the

3rd oil change. About 5-months ago when engine had about 165,000 miles on it, I had the valve seals replaced because the factory seals were not of very good quality (service bulletin). While the valve covers, springs, rocker arms, etc were off, I examined them very closely and I could not see any wear on any of the parts. And the insides of the engine that I could see was free of any sludge or debris. Actually, the interior parts were exceptionally clean. My experience with Mobil 1 has convinced me to always use it in any of my vehicles. I honestly believe that with regular oil and filter changes (5,000 miles +-) the practical mileage limit for most engines can be way beyond 200,000 miles.

Bruce Smith Upland, Ca.

Thanks guys so much for all the helpful advice. I think I'll change my oil to Mobile 1 with a Toyota filter next weekend and get on a 4-5000 mile maintaince schedule. Sounds like the best way to go for me.

The leak issue is when switching an older engine to synth, and reports are very sporadic and inconclusive. Best guess is the more consistent molecules (not smaller, just cleaner) may amplify any existing leaks. If this were true, then you would also see an increase in oil consumption, and going to a heavier weight oil would reduce leaks. Neither are true, therefore, I doubt that there is any real leakage issue with synth.

You can change out at any time. My first change (to Mobil-1) was at

3k, and I've done 6-7k intervals ever since (35k on the truck now)

Stick with Mobil-1. Redline may be good, but it's not readily available (around here). The Am$oil guys will tell you how good their stuff is and point you to all kinds of web sites, but they won't point you to a source of independent testing. Their simple claim that you can extend drain intervals to 25k makes me not trust them any more than I used to trust the Slick-50 dealers.

I use a Mobil-1 filter, but at $12, you may want to stick with a Purolator. My feeling is that for less than the cost of a burger, fries, and coke, I'm getting the best filter made. Stay away from Fram.

Don't let PTFE near it. Oil goes in the crankcase, fuel goes in the gas tank, coolant goes in the radiator. Additives belong on the shelf at Pep Boys and the money for them belongs in your pocket.

Stay away from K&N anything, and keep it clean. Like the oil filter, I pick up a new air filter as cheap (well, $20) insurance every 15k whether it needs it or not.

--- Rich

Don't forget that the oil is only half of the story. Analysis may show the oil is good for 15k, but with those dinky filters on our V8 Tundras, I wouldn't trust them beyond 7500 (and barely then).

I use the Fram Sure-Drain, so the drain-refill is easy and clean. Changing the filter is the dirtiest and most hassle (removing the skid plate)... if I'm under there changing the filter, I'm gonna change the oil too.

For someone with a fleet of delivery vehicles that see varied use and high mileage, it very well could be economical for oil analysis to be used to extend intervals, but for Joe Toyota Owner? Not worth it.

Even if analysis indicated good, you'd still kiss your extended warranty (service contract) goodbye the first time you went over 7500.

But still, being curious animals, it sure is neat to get the analysis results back and see how healthy your engine really is :)

--- Rich

Wally World has it at $19 for 5-gallon jugs right now. I've also seen the 6-packs at Sam's Club for $23.

Hehe.... Leave it to Toyota to build something that can fly in the face of science and common sense.

My '94 Toy p/u 22re was at 225k when I traded it in on the Tundra and still running strong. Regular oil (Castrol or Valvoline), Jiffy Lube filters (Fram), and I frequently stretched the change intervals to OVER 10,000. It eventually got to the point that I would end up with the oil low enough at 10k to cause the pressure gauge to swing down on corners, but it still passed CA smog with no problem. It was still on the factory coolant, gearbox and rearend oil, and rear brakes.

I take much better care of my '03 Tundra (already at 35k).

--- Rich

I now have 150,000+ miles on my '97 4-Runner. I have used Mobil 1 since 3000miles. I used to change the oil and filter at 5000 mile intervals. But at about 100K I changed it to 7500 and after having the oil analysed and with a recommendation from the testing company they said I could easily increase the change interval. I didn't increase the milage right away. I wanted to see how the oil would hold up after driving through the dust of spring and summer ( I am using a K&N air filter). After another 7500 miles and oil test with positive results. I now go to 10,000 miles for my intervals. I had the oil checked twice at the 10,000 mile interval and the company still recommends increasing the interval again. But I will hold it to

10,000. I do like not having to change my oil so often. Saves me time. I rather be out driving somewhere. BTW the engine runs very good. No complaints about anything.

When I change it at 5K miles, it comes out dirty looking and funky smelling. I'd say that 5K miles is long enough between changes. Besides, even _expensive_ oil is cheap insurance.

Tom S

Under normal driving and maintenance, before the car developed any lubrication related problem, there are far greater chance of

. Seal leaking. . Broken belts . Emmission control failure. . AC failure . Electrical system/ sensor failure. . Starter/Alternator, charing problem. . Water pump/ fan/overheating. . Transmission problem. . Fuel system problem. . Blown gasket, cracked exhaust manifold. . get wrecked.

Still care for oil change every 3000 miles?

When was the last time you know of anyone (other than the racing guys) having engine failure due to oil quality?

My 1990 v6 extra cab has 285,000 km/175,000 miles on it. I take the truck to my Toyota dealer on the severe service schedule. The truck does not need oil between changes. It tows a fifth wheel trailer in the summer, and living at 4000 ft/1400 m in the Canadian Rockies, the truck sees cold weather, as low as -40 (some both ways) in the winter.

96 T-100 4WD X-Cab V-6 currently 304K, 89 4WD X-Cab 22RE currently 230K, Both changed every 3-5k with whatever dino oil my local Toy dealer has in the drum. Bill W BTW, the 89's for sale if anyone's interested. I'm in central Ohio.

since dyno oil allows for parts to "cut in" better than synths do, i suggest the following schedule for any new vehicle:

1) dino-oil and filter at 500, 1000, 1500, 3k miles. 2) switch to full synth and better filter (longer if possible, eg WIX). 3) regular changes at 5k increments, 4k if very dusty, hard use, etc.

don't forget about manual trans and diffs. i dropped mine at 2k miles and loads of metal shavings come out... went to full synth there too.... good for at least 40k miles...

Nope. The T-100 had the head gaskets done at 80K under the SSC, but other than that neither engine's been opened. Bill W

Same here, 95 T100 with 220k. Oil changed every 3000 with non-synthetic. Head gasket was done but that's about it. Hoping to get another 100k out of the old girl:)

See ya,

-adam

Used to make gas turbine engine. The oil we test the engine with is the same oil the customer (not OEM) would receive with the engine. Only the filter get replaced about 2 times. There was no degradation in oil lubrication quality, so why replace it and have to deal with the disposal problem.

Similar reason applied here. Why replace every 500 miles. Just make sure you use good filter (OEM). Remember today engine components have same quality as aircraft engine. It doesn't wear, and if it does, that is what the filter is for.

Again, chance for having lubricated component failure is rare. Most of time they are quality or design related.

ugggghhhh !!! not all of the "dirt" gets to the filter, lots in suspension slushing around inside !!!

Will your Toyota dealer give you a free first oil change?

The Toyogard service includes a first oil change. May not even bother with that though. Will probably start using Mobil 1 and do my own first oil change at 2500 miles. Don't have too much faith in the dealership. I'd only use them for warrenty work or something that is beyond my siklls to fix.