Trailer wiring on a Tacoma

'98 Tacoma. Wiring trailer harness. Standard 4 pin connector. White/Brown/Yellow/Green. I know the wiring is a little diffrent because the turn signal and taillights are on sepearate bulbs. Anyone know the sequence? Thanks.

Reply to
Andy
Loading thread data ...

white ground yellow left turn/brake light green right turn/brake light brown tail

But on Toyotas you need a wiring adapter box.

Reply to
Wolfgang

Reply to
Andy

Ordered mine online - was also a self powered and fused system. That way the internal system stays intact (only sensors attach) and IF there's a short or other problem with the trailer, then that fuse will protect.

Google "Hitchfinder" and look for the Modulite products. I got the Modulite

10 Amp and the wiring kit ~$55.

On Mon, 02 Jan 2006 14:23:09 GMT, "Andy" found these unused words floating about:

Reply to
J. A. Mc.

Reply to
bill

Those are generally the ones that use the power FROM the Toyota's lighting system. Far safer to use the SELF powered (separate line and fuse to batery/fuse box) ones!!!

On 2 Jan 2006 09:44:48 -0800, "bill" found these unused words floating about:

Reply to
J. A. Mc.

For the trailer - Yellow left turn, Green right turn, Brown tail, White ground, Red stop, Blue "AUX" - back-up or Electric Brakes or Battery Charge.

There are a few ways to do it right: The best for most people is to go get the self-powered converter box that you need to run a 30-amp lead through the car to the battery.

Or you can add two Stop lamps to the trailer, wire them with a Red wire, change the trailer to a 6-pin round connector with a dedicated Stop light terminal, and leave everything else on the trailer alone. Then you don't need any converters at all, and the trailer works behind any car or truck made. If it's behind an American car you just hook up the original 4 wires, the extra stoplights don't do anything.

If you are somewhat handy with electronics and your car has a lamp failure module, you can buy four cheap cube relays, run a fused lead to the battery for power, and make your own trailer light isolator. Tap in BEFORE the LFM box for your relay coil signals, and put reverse EMF diodes across the relay coils (if they aren't built in) so you don't create voltage spikes.

The cheapie converter that just taps into the truck lights will work for most applications - but your trailer lights will not be at full brightness due to the forward voltage drop effect of the transistors and diodes in the cheap converter. You lose between .7 and 2 Volts, which will noticeably dim the lights and make them difficult to see in bright sunlight.

On some cars with lamp failure sensor systems (usually the high end cars) tapping in for trailer light power in the wrong place can blow out the LFS box and knock all your car and trailer lights out. And that box is very expensive to replace.

Read your owners manual and/or ask at the dealer before you do anything. If there are special restrictions, you need to know it.

-->--

Reply to
Bruce L. Bergman

You need a special gizmo that costs aobut $15. It will turn the 5-wire system you have into a 4-wire system that the trailer wants to see.

Reply to
Jeff Strickland

Anywhere they sell trailer supplies.

Reply to
Jeff Strickland

MotorsForum website is not affiliated with any of the manufacturers or service providers discussed here. All logos and trade names are the property of their respective owners.