1970 Bug - QUESTIONS

hello all... i live in Ventura, CA and i recently aquired a 1970/Type I/1300 Bug. my neighbor had to move back to the east coast and sold it to me for 500$. it's definately a fixer-upper. it's main purpose is to get me around town and get my son to school. i've always wanted one of my own, since my parents both owned a lot of VWs till the mid 80s (it's just that smell...ahhh). recently, i have had the urge to, at the very least, fix it up a bit, as much as i can possibly do on my own. i really don't know much about engines and i don't know much about other aspects of the car that i take for granted, other then the essential maintenance. i took it over to a trusted mechanic on advice from my boss who owns a vanagon. they basically said to do whatever i could and to bring it in when it breaks down.. outside of that they didn't say much. i am pretty clueless about Bugs but have found a ton of resources online and i'm a fast learner. I have been running over John Muir's 'How to keep your VW alive' book. i'm mechanically inclined and since VWs are easy to repair and maintain, i thought this would be a great little project i could accomplish over time.

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This website is a simple website. i have some questions about the car that i know you guys could help answer.

1) ok what year model is that speedometer from? i was told it may be from a 1973 bug. what the hell is that ATF light? and why is it connected to that switch? all the switch does is turn on and off the light. those mileages are not possibly the right numbers. the odometer doesn't move as fast as it should, maybe 1/2 the speed it's supposed to?? 1a) 7 lights across the bottom of the speedometer what are they? a) EGR = b) ATF = c) (G) = generator d) Turn Signal (which doesn't really work properly.. it doesn't blink e) OIL (obvious) f ) what looks like a television set with a squiggle line in the box g) headlights (bright) About the Engine 2) ok so this engine has a H before some numbers on the actual engine block and i read online that that meant it was a 1500cc. anyone know if this is right? 3) also .. anyone see any problems with the engine from these pictures? i know they aren't the best but if you see something.. let me know and i'll take more pictures 4) what can i use to clean the engine up? seems some oil is inside the compartment well much thanks for taking the time to check this out!!!
Reply to
Bubba
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It's been too many years since I owned a bug ('72 super), but I'm currently a love-slave to an '81 Westy, so I guess I qualify for this group...:)

At I guess, I'd say Automatic Transmission Fluid, which was needed for the old Auto-Stickshift beetles. That switch dosen't look stock, so I'd guess that a previous owner wired in the ATF light to advise him when he had the switch turned on: maybe it was used for fog/driving lights or sumpin' like that. I do the same sort of thing to my Westy: why have unused lights in the dash when they can be put to good use? :) Try tracing the wires from the switch to see what else it might power.

Exhaust Gas Recirculation. For the world outside of California, this was added to bugs in '74. From the look of your engine, you ain't got one, so don't worry.

See above.

Rear Window defogger. Your '70 may not have this, it's a bunch of thin horizontal lines that go across your rear window. A hidden rocker switch under the dashboard (to the right of the steering column, if I recall) is used to turn it on or off. Electric window defoggers draw a lot of current (and are thus an increased load on the engine), so it's best to be advised when it's on.

Seems reasonable for the vintage. It's a single-port, so it's most likely to be a 1500.

Just one: you don't have a engine pre-heat hose. That curvy spigot-type thingy hanging down from the air-cleaner intake should be connected with a length of that silver hose to the round thing that's sticking up through the rear tin to the left of the crankshaft pulley. While it may not seem important to have engine pre-heat in California, that hole in the lower tin redirects cooling air that has just been past the engine heads and cylinders. Without a hose (or a plug on the hole), you are dumping hot air directly into your engine compartment full-time while the engine is running, which will in turn cause the engine to run hotter than it should.

Um, rags?

Reply to
Lyle Beaulac

Oop, sorry. I meant to the *right* of the pulley.

Lyle

Reply to
Lyle Beaulac

I'll take a swat at a few of these:

Bubba wrote (asked):

If it's a 1970, Type 1 (Bug), it came with a 1600cc engine, not a

1300cc. 1300cc's were specific to 1966 Type 1's.

Get the Bentley book too. A Clymer manual doesn't hurt either. I have all three, and more.

ATF = Automatic Transmission Fluid. This speedo came from an auto-stick.

EGR = Exhaust Gas Recirculation

That's an indicator light for a rear window defogger, which your car may or may not have.

As another poster sayd, you are missing your big fat engine intake preheat air hose. Get some of the same 2" air ducting that runs from your fan housing to the heat exchangers and put a piece connecting the connection in the air cleaner's 'horn' to the similar connection coming up from the engine's sheet metal pretty much directly below it.

Drive to the U-squirt-it-off car wash, armed with quarters, and clean up that oily mess! Try not to blast water into the places where water is best not, like excessively over the dist cap, into anyplace that looks like it may lead somewhere, like into the air cleaner, etc.

Hope this helps!

Reply to
John Kuthe

"ATF" is for ATF fluid temp. All VW speedos from about '68 on had them, even if the car was manual tranny.

Squiggle is for the rear window defroster, as is the toggle switch. Apparently whoever put in the later speedo wired this up to the ATF rather than the defrost light.

EGR Exhaust recirc valve. Don't worry about it, your bug doesn't have one.

"H" code engines are '68 thru Aug '69 1500cc 53 HP engines. If it has an "0" as the next digit it's a Aug '66-July '67. If it has a "5" as the next digit, it's from Aug '67 to July '69.

Don't rely only on the engine number. There's always a possibility it's been rebuilt. If that's the case it may be a 1600. Only way to tell is to pull the heads and measure the cylinders. Something you don't want to do, unless it's necessary.

Engine looks good. To clean it up, get some degreasing spray from the local auto parts. Cover the carb, distributor with plastic bags and spray the beejeebers out of it. Don't forget underneath. Pay attention to all the cooling fins.

Let it sit for about 10 minutes and wash it off with water. If you can do this at the local $1.00 (used to be 25 cent) car wash, you won't get all the gunk on the driveway.

Carb cleaner does a good job, too, but don't get any on the paint.

If you check out my website, I chronicled an inexpensive resto on my '69. That may give you some ideas.

Reply to
Alan Nelson

The H engine code was from '67 thru '69 which means originally a 1500. But if the engine was rebuilt it could be a 1600cc. It wouldn't really matter either way. The engine looks OK from here. The generator pulley looks new which means somebody has been making an attempt to work on it over the years. Question - is it an autostick?

My question to the group - what's that thing on the back of the carburetor? I can tell it's for vacuum, but to what?

Charlie Houston TX

Reply to
Charles Myer

Charles Myer wrote (asked):

That's a thing to moderate how fast the engine decellerates. It's like a shock absorber for the throttle so if you take your foot off the gas all of a sudden, the throttle doesn't slap closed quite that fast.

Pollution control, I think.

I used to yank those off my Bug's engines, whenever I found one on there.

Reply to
John Kuthe

I have a 1970 Bug, the year of the "B" motor, not worth a crap I'm told, mine has a number starting with two letters, must be a replacement, single port 1.6litre.

Reply to
Douglas

The engine I have in my bug is a h5 and it has 85.5mm pistons and cylinders in it, which makes it a 1600. Yours could have the same thing, as the

85.5's will fit in the same holes as the 1500 pistons and cylinders and the 85.5's are the norm for stock rebuilds.

One of the things that I saw in the pics was that there is an open hole in the engine tin where a hose is missing. This hose goes from the bottom of the air filter and connects to a fitting on the exhaust under the tin. If you are replacing the hose, fine, nothing else needs to be done. If you are not going to replace the hose, then you will need to plug the hole in the tin. The hole will allow hot air from under the engine to be pulled up and into the engine bay and then into the fan which cools the engine. This can lead to over heating and reduce the life of your engine.

welcome to the family and you have found your best source for info for your Aircooled VW.

Reply to
TerryB

Hiya Douglas,

I have a 1970 Bug, the year of the "B" motor, not worth a crap I'm told.

Your statement is indefinite. It's not clear whether you are referring to the car or the engine. However, if you are referring to the engine, you need to get some better advice.

The "B6" series engine started its production run in August 1969 with a single relief case. During production that year the case upgraded to a dual relief set-up. These later cases are highly regarded by engine rebuilders. In actual use the "B" series engine was a rock solid performer. Continual maintenance problems (which plauged the later dual port 34PICT3 set-ups) were non-existent. In fact, I have been told by more than one VW dealer trained mechanic (of that era) that the 1970 Bug and it's component parts (which, of course, includes the engine) was the car they most enjoyed working with.

Take this for what it's worth. But whatever it is worth, the 70 Bug and its original B series engine were surely not "crap".

Reply to
Bookwus1

I really appreciate all the help i have received. this newsgroup is really quick with intelligent responses!!!

my engine # is H5862***

so from what i gather this is either a 1500cc or a rebuilt into 1600cc? am i along the path?

man there is so much left to do on this beast...

i am buying a Haynes manual for it this weekend and i'm gonna give everything a once thru

as for the Missing Hose.... that is solved!!! thanks for the heads up

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someone said something about my car not being a 1300... why does it have those numbers on the back then?? please help clarify this?

thank you everyone!!!!

Reply to
Bubba

Awww shucks it wuz nut'n!

Reply to
TerryB

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