I have another pan which has disk brakes on all four-trouble is that the transaxle isn't the same nor is the front end. Would it be worthwhile to swap the the whole rear and front ends out or is this even possible? Perhaps there is some conversion kit out there that would make this possible.
Thanks for any and all responses.
Short answer: 36mm
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Long answer: It takes a *huge* amount of force/torque to get the nuts off and on. See this thread for some ideas:
From the headers, I'm guessing this is in the US and the '70 is an IRS rear end (swing axle is worse). If you insist on replacing the wheel cyls, figure on doing the shoes too, and the grease seal, gaskets. And this will be a once in a lifetime opportunity to renew the 35 year old grease in the wheel bearings. Don't forget new flex hoses all 'round.
If the shoes and hydraulics are OK otherwise, you *could* bleed by simply loosening the flex hose at each wheel and pump/tighten to get any air out.
If you decide to do the wheel cyls, plan ahead for the inevitable parts that will break/won't come apart/won't fit. BTDT
Speedy Jim
Go out right now and squirt a little easing oil on any threaded item that you may eventually want to loosen. avoid the rubber parts. the vibration on the road helps get the oil into the threads . well , it can't hurt.
One word- Torquemeister
Also knoiwn as a "Cooper's Tool" Put the toother plate on the drum with 2 of your lug bolts. Attach the gear small end of the arm, and the large end (36mm) goes over the axle nut. You can get over 300 lbs.-ft with a 1/4 inch drive socket and ratchet. I cannot tell you how many times my Torquemeister has saved the day at the races, on the road, it alao works on the stock flywheel gland nut; you just don't use the gear plate, you use the teeth on the flywheel instead. The Torquemeister multiplies torque x9, so 30 lbs.-feet = 270 lbs.-ft. A lot of suppliers have them now, used to be only Kymco had them, but I think even Mid-America Motorworks sells them now. To me, it's as important a tool for an ACVW as a .004" feeler gauge.
Jim, I've had the same thing happen to the bleeder screws on the rear of my Studebaker pickup and I CAN'T get the bloody drums off, it's not the nut like a VW (that's easy to get off), but the drum won't come off even with whats supposed to be a good puller, although it HAS pulled the lug nuts off!
Your idea with the flex hose sounds like just what I need to get the brakes working properly so I can drive the truck to an expert on these old beasts.
Thanks!
Jeff DeWitt
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