Can a stock T-1 Engine Benefit from Swivel Feet?

Can a stock T-1 Engine Benefit from Swivel Feet?

I was using a set of these:

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on the stock rocker set on my T-1 1600cc DP.

No apparent problems for over six years.

I installed a refurbished pair of stock 1.1:1 ratio rockers on my T-1 engine yesterday that I got from cip1.com.

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I was going to remove the ball type swivel feet from the old rocker set and install them on the new set, but I could not get them to unscrew.

With a heat gun and a pair of vice grips, I was able to get one of them to unscrew.

I thought they must be bent. To not risk damaging the threads on the new set of refurbished rockers, I did not use the old ball type swivel feet and used the stock valve adjustment screws instead.

I do not race. I do mostly stop and go in town driving like to the Wallyworld on weekends. I plan to replace the stock valve adjuster screws every 10,000 miles or so.

Is there an advantage to using swivel feet on stock 1.1:1 rocker assemblies or are they just for hi performance engines with hi lift cams?

Reply to
Jim347a
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I have these on mine because they extend the time between valve adjustments. My engine isn't stock but it's radical either. My old

1300 was stock and I also had swivel feet adjusters in it for the same reason.

Tony

Reply to
Anthony W

With swivel feet you can adjust the valves without a feeler gauge.

Max

Reply to
max_welton_2k

Here you go Jan. From May of 2003. ;-)

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Max

Reply to
max_welton_2k

How do you figure that, Max? You still need to adjust the valves properly. I don't see how these would help in that area at all.

Personally I think the swivel feet adjusters in the picture behind the first link, are junk. The design more than the actual version of it. I have used numerous EMPI labeled sets, and thrown away about just as many. They MAY work ok in a stock or near stock application, where you don't have much more lift or spring pressure than stock, and keep the rpms below 6000. So for the original poster, it sounds like they would work fine.

A couple of potential problems:

  1. They break under high stress, as in a high lift, high performance engine. Even with perfect geometry.

  1. they require modifications to the rocker assembly to get the geometry right, things that if done carelessly may cause damage. Partly because of the required mods to get the geometry right, it is sometimes hard to get the oil groove to line up with the corresponding oil hole inside the rocker. You don't want to run the balls dry.

  2. I haven't verified this 100%, but I'm not sure these would make the valve rotate as the engine runs, like the stock solid adjusters do. The valve needs to rotate slowly and gradually as it is pressed open and closed again, to keep the seating surfaces smooth and uniform.

  1. You have already found the material related problem. It seems that these adjusters are made of softer or otherwise incompatible material, that causes them to get stuck on the rocker in very short period of time. Or maybe they are just not machined right to match the rocker threads. No attention to tolerances etc. Often the nuts that sometimes come with the set, are downright unusable, keep using your stock VW nuts.

The stock adjusters are hard to beat. Just make sure that they are replaced with new when the tip gets too worn or if there are any damaged threads.

Jan

Reply to
Jan

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So, swivel feet and or lash caps are really for performance engines and are not necessary on a stock engines?!

Do valve stem ends mushroom on a stock engine in a sedan used for daily driver non racing use?

Reply to
Jim347a

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Yes, a known procedure made easier by the swivel-feet. However if you like to get it absolutely spot on like me, it simply will not do. For that you would need a degree wheel and a pointer + the ability to hold the adjuster screw absolutely still when tightening the lock nut.

Another issue/procedure regarding valve adjustment seldom mentioned:

You should in theory adjust the valves to the given specs at the LOWEST part of the camlobe and not by degrees on the front pulley, as the latter will only get you proximately close to the lowest spot on the camlobe.

You have four camlobes, and therefore four lowspots. After doing this the first time, you can mark your own front pulley indicating the two lowspots for each cylinder.

This is easiest done with sparkplugs removed and rear sealing tin removed. You then use a regular feeler gauge whilst rotating the front pulley back and fourth over the regular adjustment points as pr. the manual until you find the absolute lowspot.

Most people will claim there are nothing to be gained from this, they are wrong.. The very same people would very likely be willing to fork over the cash for a set of "ratio" rockers. Well, by using the "lowspot" method you are in fact giving yourself more lift at the valve and a minute addition to your opening of valves duration.

I have done this on an otherwise stock 1600 T1, and again, you will notice a slight performance gain with emphasis on slight.. #:-]

J.

Reply to
P.J.Berg

Yup. And I don't do it with stock adjusters specifically because of the possible faceting that Bob Hoover pointed out.

Lots of people who ask a "which is better" question are really only thinking about making more power. I have no useful advice for those people. This poster does not seem to be one of those people.

So back to the question:

"Is there an advantage to using swivel feet on stock 1.1:1 rocker assemblies or are they just for hi performance engines with hi lift cams?"

I personally think a quality swivel foot is an improvement over the stock design. If properly lubricated, they should last a very long time. I am still using the Berg set I bought new in 1999. They've been in constant daily driver service since then. I've replaced the lock nuts twice but the adjusters are doing just fine.

In 1999 GBE still sold the ones that take a hex tool instead of a slot screwdriver. It's rather easy to "see" 45 degrees with the hex tool.

Max

Reply to
max_welton_2k

John att Aircooled.net sells the original 911 swivel feet, not sure if they use the unbrako wrench/key/tool or not.

J.

Reply to
P.J.Berg

I don't see any use for them period. Stock engines don't need them, and high performance engines can't use them because they break. There are different type swiveled adjusters that work better, the captive ball type is not real good for anything. I would only use those in a stock or very mild engine, but I see no reason to do so.

No. Maybe over time, like several decades :D

Stainless steel valves will need hardened lash caps. Some lash caps still wear out, but it's easier to replace those than valves.

Jan

Reply to
Jan Andersson

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Got it. :) For some reason I thought you meant they don't need to be adjusted at ALL.

Jan

Reply to
Jan Andersson

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