Swivel preload?

A good start would be a full set of oil seals and gaskets and a hub nut lockwasher. I would also reccommend a selection of shims. And if you can get them on sale or return it would be a good idea to get a swivel pin (incase they're worn) an upper bush/bearing (depending on what you've got, you can tell from your vin number).

If you're going to be stripping down to get to the swivel, you may as well get yourself a tub of grease & make sure the bearings are well lubricated too.

Oh and you'll need a spring balance to set the preload correctly, some thread lock for the important bolts, some string/wire/cable ties to hold the caliper up, a torque wrench is useful if you have one. Oil (or grease if you prefer) to put back in the swivel. Maybe a bit of paraffin to clean the parts. Some 3 in 1 oil or WD40 can be a godsend on some nuts/bolts ( be sure to clean it up afterwards) and it's a good idea to get some brake cleaner to clean any oil or crud that gets on the brake parts.

Thats all i can think of for now. When I did mine recently I made use of everything mentioned above, but I only had to replace the pin & bush on one of the swivels.

Hope it helps

Stu

Forgot too mention. I stripped mine all the way down, if you aren't going that extreme you wont need all the stuff.

Stu

knowledgable

Hey, this was such an _excellent_ 'thread' ..... Nice work !! ... and thank you. I've 'saved' it for 'down the track'... Heheheheh..

.. frodo.

Just remembered, you have to remove the drag link & track rod from the swivels, so you'll need a ball joint splitter as well (make sure its a big one, the one sold for steering balljoint on normal cars is too small). Check your ball joints before you do anything, if any look worn now could be a good time to replace them. If you do make sure the ball joints get a liberal coating of copper grease before you screw them in.

It would be a good idea to make sure you have a spanner to fit the caliper bolts as well. I belive its a half inch bolt but it's not hexagonal (can't remember what they are called but it's shaped like a cog) and it can be a bugger to get to with a socket & ratchet. Also spraying them liberally the night before with lubricating oil should help.

And don't forget some hub caps (the little rubber things) just in case you split them whilst trying to remove them.

Stu

Are both of the swivels showing the same movement?

Stu's given you pretty much all you need - it's a 1/2" multispline (i.e.

You'll need a hub nut spanner as well. I would guess your vehicle is railko bush instead of bearing, but I'm not absolutely sure. The bushes can be a nightmare to get out - large hammers, punches etc necessary! Make sure you put them back in the right way as well - they have a back and front side to them. Bushes will need a thrust washer as well as the bush and pin.

I have a good selection of swivel pin shims here if you run short :)

Shout if you need any help - all tools necessary can be borrowed from 8 miles down the road :)

Regards

William MacLeod

Hi Willie,

William MacLeod wrote in news: snipped-for-privacy@macleod-group.com:

Yes.

I think I have those to hand. Needed the bar for the Pug 504 wheel nuts -- as I discovered one day up on the north coast! Have a fair selection of sockets.

Hmm, I don't like the sound of that. Just purchased a massive socket for the "new" 2 tonne Ivor Williams, only to discover it was a 3/4" drive when I got home from HIS. Never mind, it was half the price of the 1/2" one and it worked fine after I had welded on an old 1/2" socket!

I bought a selection from M&D. They also mentioned something about pins but I wrote it off as another hard sell.

You may live to regret that.

Was underneath yesterday and discovered a heap of rust at the rear end. Oh dear....I have invested in a tin of POR15. A small tin. I'm being optimistic.

Regards, Derry

Grand.

It's OK, this one is a box spanner (at least, the one I have is) so you just use a piece of rebar or a long screwdriver for it. Thankfully not a

For once they weren't lying although I'm amazed you got someone that actually knew something. Normally anything even slightly technical gets a bemused look and a "You'll have to ask a mechanic, mate - I just do parts". One normally replaces the bush/thrust washer and pin all at once because wear on one seems to accelerate wear on the others.

No problem.

It was a bit scabby on the n/s outward chassis leg at the back I recall. No holes?

I had the schutz gun out on Saturday and I've just added at least 300 quid to the value of the red 110 :)

Regards

William MacLeod

William MacLeod wrote in news: snipped-for-privacy@macleod-group.com:

Erm, do you meant the bit where the hammer went through?? :( Ian up the road said it was no problem and he had seen worse. He said to just cut it out and he'd weld it for me -- which translates as, "Just cut it out and you can weld it yourself!"

Thanks again.

Derry

On or around 29 Sep 2003 18:43:31 GMT, Derry Argue enlightened us thusly:

the size is actually 13mm 12-point, but a 1/2" one will fit nice and tight. I got a long-reach one, which allows more clearance for the handle.

the bolts on mine were a little worn so I found the 1/2" a better fit (to the extent the 13mm wouldn't grip), and you're right, the long reach sort make it a damn site easier.

Stu

Austin Shackles wrote in news: snipped-for-privacy@4ax.com:

Is that a "normal" 13mm socket? I assume the 6-point is a hexagonal hole. Sorry, I am not up on this technical jargon! But I'm sure to have a 1/2" as well as someone off loaded a lot of obsolete spanners and sockets in my direction.

Just done a 400 mile trip today and the steering is getting a bit interesting. Looks as if I will have to do those swivels sooner rather than later....

Derry

On or around 30 Sep 2003 19:21:37 GMT, Derry Argue enlightened us thusly:

yep. AKA bi-hexagon. The one that looks like an ordinary ring spanner. Don't try to undo 'em with an ordinary ring spanner though, I broke one of my britool ones (mind, it took *real* abuse...) trying to shift such bolts on a sherpa minibus. The option was a 16-mile trip to get a socket to fit, which of course I then had to do anyway :-(

Snip

From my experience if the swivel bearing/bushes are so worn you can feel it at the wheel then the hub seal will have been leaking badly because of this mis-alignment. Can you be sure that the wheel bearings just don't need tightening up a bit? Garage mechanics, as a rule no jack S**t about landrovers and often voice opinions as if they were facts.

Best of Luck.

"Rudolph Hucker" wrote in news:ZyBeb.5752$ snipped-for-privacy@news-text.cableinet.net:

Good point. I shall check!

Derry

Careful, that's Jimmy Coghill you're talking about there who has run Land Rover recovery vehicles for more decades than anyone can remember. And who probably keeps more defenders on the road than any LR dealer.

(I do assume that it was Ardgay Garage that you went to, Derry?!)

Regards

William MacLeod

William MacLeod wrote in news: snipped-for-privacy@macleod-group.com:

Correct, Willie.

The movement is between 6 and 12 o'clock.

Anyway, it is a good point worth checking and will cost me nothing to do.

Derry