defender swivel balls

... find a friend to polish them ?

Lizzy

Andy wrote in news: snipped-for-privacy@4ax.com:

I bought an excellent secondhand set for £25 each which is about half the new price. In fact, I got rather more than that as the scrapper merely took an angle grinder to the axle and removed them that way!

The swivel housing are chrome plated and when they are scored and pitted they are fit only for the scrap heap. The guy I got the above from does a lot of off roading so he buys scrap axles and removes the CV joints from them which he can use. He has no use for the swivel housings. £25 each seems to be the going rate.

Derry

youll have to excuse me, its been a long day,

i thought the swivel balls went into the swivel housing.

so the housing is a different unit than the chrome ball. or am i totaly wrong, paddocks do the housings at 48 + vat each. but no mention of the chrome ball. yet under the series section it mentions the chrome ball.

explain it to me please.........

andy

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On or around 5 Jun 2004 22:15:17 GMT, Andy enlightened us thusly:

Paddock seem to list teflon-coated ones too.

so what do i want, ----whats best.

andy

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On or around 5 Jun 2004 23:05:55 GMT, Andy enlightened us thusly:

buggered if I know. I guess the teflon will wear off, like it does from frying pans, while the chrome can rust.

Chrome doesn't rust. The pits are where the chrome has been chipped off by impact from stones, etc. Then the steel underneath rusts.

It's why they sell swivel gaiters.....

Alex

"Austin Shackles" schreef in bericht news: snipped-for-privacy@4ax.com...

enlightened

Teflon ones are rubbish. I had to replace by my dealer one on my 110 Td5 with 30,000 miles. The teflon coating dissapears, and you get blank metal balls, who completely rusts away on the other side of the oilseal...... No warranty either... The dealer says pitted swivels are normal weir and teir.... But after one and and half year just normal road driving.....???

Tjalf

Andy wrote in news: snipped-for-privacy@4ax.com:

I'll leave that to someone else. I thought they were the same thing but what the hell do I know?

Your round shiney things are all pitted and scored and you want to replace them or refurbish them. Right? The latter is not economical. So replace them. New chromed or tefloned or secondhand. Your choice. I'm mean and poor and live in Scotland so I went for secondhand and that worked fine for me, plus I got free "extras". Don't forget to get a new pair of seals when your order your new balls. (That's oil seals, not the aquatic type mammals).

The cup shaped thingies the shiney round watsits fit into are unlikely to require replacement which is just as well as nobody seems to have a name for them anyway. Come to think of it, that's probably why!

Derry.

I know the feeling.....

The CV Joint sits inside the chrome ball

The chrome on my '84 110 is like new. The secret is continuous use. If the housings are serviced to make sure they don't go short of oil [it can be sucked into the main axle] and the vehicle is used at least daily, then they will not rust. Unless you get a bad batch of chrome.

Mine is mainly used off road or rough road and gets washed once a year if it is lucky. No problem with my balls, which are big, shiny and full of slippery stuff.

Huw

Of course you do know how to tell which is the male side and which is female? ;-)

Huw

On or around Sun, 06 Jun 2004 09:30:43 +0100, Alex enlightened us thusly:

Pedant. you know what I mean. The Chrome swivels can rust, due to various things.

"Huw" wrote in news:40c377cf$1 snipped-for-privacy@mk-nntp-2.news.uk.tiscali.com:

The balls on the 1997 300Tdi I purchased were completely knackered. Rusty and badly scored. The seals were also done and oil ran straight through and it is a miracle the CV joints were still intact.

Before I got it, the vehicle was a gamekeeper's Land Rover in an area where sandy soil predominates. I also got about a ton of top soil out of the chassis when I applied the hose pipe! I'd suggest a lot has to do with where the vehicle is used, as well as age.

The replacement balls, purchased secondhand, were perfect but of the old type with the drain plug in the bottom. So age doesn't seem to have much to do with it though logic agrees with the regular use theory.

BTW, how do you check for oil level in the swivel housings? Full lock and a dip stick?

Derry

Course, those of us with welded balls have more to worry about, in this respect...

Sand may be particularly abrasive. Mine only has mud, salt roads and mainly cow s*it to wade through.

Yes, full lock so the ball is out as far as possible from its socket on the side to be checked. Depending on type, the oil should be up to the thread on the filler/level plug. Use a welding rod or a piece of stiff wire as a dipstick. There is an alternative, which is to use a semi fluid grease in there.

Huw

I'm sure if the need arises you can get a welding torch on your balls.

Alex

"Huw" wrote in news:40c4320d snipped-for-privacy@mk-nntp-2.news.uk.tiscali.com:

Oh dear, I think mine only have Mr Haynes's recommendation of

Derry