Correct condenser for SVDA dizzie?

Sep 23, 2004 14 Replies

I had a condenser fail a few days ago. I pulled it off and installed my backup condenser. The dizzie has a round hole in the side for the points wire plug to pass through. The failed one (Bosch) originally had a square plug which I had shaped to be round. It also incorporated a nifty clamp to hold the plug in place when the condenser was mounted to the body with its bolt.



The backup condenser (also Bosch) has a round plug, so it fits the hole in the dizzie body, but it does not have any nifty clamp to hold the plug in place. The plug's fit is not what I would call a snug secure one. I miss my clamp!



I paid a visit to my local VW parts shop (jbugs), wanting to bend his ear (and a couple other body parts) about a remarkably crappy side marker lamp he sold me, and thought to see if he had a good condenser for this dizzie. He got the number off it and, checking his catalog, came up with a Bosch P/N. He fetched one and we looked at it and it had a square plug and no clamp.



How many darn condenser models are there, anyway?



John Connolly -- what Bosch P/N am I looking for?


-- Mike "Rocket J Squirrel" Elliott



71 Type 2: the Wonderbus
84 Westphalia: "Mellow Yellow (The Electrical Banana)" KG6RCR

Mike,

What's the number on your distributor?

Try this site:

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Lots of distributor info, and I bet your answer lies here.

Hope this helps,

Dane Tyler '69 Bug '63 Bug

Mike Rocket J. Squirrel Elliott wrote:

There's only one Bosch condensor, as far as I have been able to discern, although they have made them differently over the years. I once went thru a whole shop's worth of Bosch condensors, just to see if they all measured the same capacitance. They did.

OTOH, Bosch makes what appears to be a nearly infinite selection of Capacitor assemblies, which vary in the kinds of fittings they use and the length and type of wire and end connections.

Up thru about '71 VW used a condensor that had the retainer clip built into the condensor hold down clip. Starting around '72 they went to separate parts. You may find what you want if you go down a year or so. Look up a condensor for a '70 or '69 bus. It may come with the clip you're looking for.

It sounds like your distributor originally came with the separate clamp. This means that you have to either use an earlier condensor, or find the later clip, which was never supplied with the replacement condensors. I can dig one of these up if you really need it.

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----------------------------------------------- Jim Adney snipped-for-privacy@vwtype3.org Madison, WI 53711 USA

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This makes sense, Jim. I should have said "condensor assmblies" since the capacitor itself doesn't need to be anything special other than reliable. It's not like there is any tuning or matching of capacitance to coil or points needed: it's standard procedure to stick a cap across contacts to prevent arcing and pitting when they are switching into an inductive load. Usually in the 0.1uF to 0.47uF is what I use on relay contacts when I need to do something like that.

I was addressing the mechanical fit issue: round vs square pegs, integrated retainer clips vs not. Cleaning up the shop table today I did stumble across a separate retainer clip. I reckon it's the part I need.

Thanks, Jim.

-- Mike "Rocket J Squirrel" Elliott

71 Type 2: the Wonderbus 84 Westphalia: "Mellow Yellow (The Electrical Banana)" KG6RCR

Hi ! do not take this wrong, but your statement:

"It's not like there is any tuning or matching of capacitance to coil or points needed: it's standard procedure to stick a cap across contacts to prevent arcing and pitting when they are switching into an inductive load. Usually in the 0.1uF to 0.47uF is what I use on relay contacts when I need to do something like that."

Is according to those in the know (read the old timers who actually knew/know the Kettering system) completely wrong..

The capacitor/condenser is tuned to the coil/complete system by frequence... Yes, I thought it bs too, but they are right..

Of cause you could get it to runn by applying "any" condenserbut milage would vary(SP?)

J.

Can you cite any references? What frequencies are we tuning for? If tuning for frequency is important then we'd use different capacitors with different coils, since the inductance of each type of coil is different and affects the frequency of the contact make/break ringing.

-- Mike "Rocket J Squirrel" Elliott

71 Type 2: the Wonderbus 84 Westphalia: "Mellow Yellow (The Electrical Banana)" KG6RCR

Mr.Rocket.

I'm to far from even remotely remebering the correct basics, look for (as in doing a "Google") (Yes, even being a forrrrrreigner I do realize the lingo is horrible) Kettering. I believe Mr.Hoover had a down to earth write-up on the Kettering system.

My biggest surprise was exchanging words with a Professor as in medicine...(I know the guy) He knew the Kettering system!!!::::

J.

Hi Mr. J -- I did a Google for "kettering ignition coil inductance frequency" and didn't find anything related to tuning by frequency.

A very nice tutorial (with excellent pictures) is at

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And it says, "The condenser is a large capacitor (only the automotive industry calls it a condenser?). It charges up to a smaller voltage. When the points open this small charge is dumped into the larger coil which slows its collapse. Remember, a coil output is strongest when the collapse is fast and sharp. The condenser slows this collapse just long enough for the points to get far enough apart so the coil back EMF output can't arc across that distance. Without a condenser the backflow arcing and heat would destroy the points (sometimes in a matter of seconds). However, the condenser can't be too big or the coil would collapse too slow and not produce any spark (especially at at higher RPM)."

If the condenser is too large, there is no spark, and if it is too small the points contacts will wear out soon due to arcing/pitting. But matching the value of capacitance to the inductance/resistance of the coil to produce a certain frequency of ringing doesn't seem like any part of ignition setup. In fact, minimum ringing would be best from the viewpoint of reducing emissions -- EMI or "electromagnetic interference" emissions, that is.

Those electronically-inclined might find this article detailing modeling and simulating the Kettering ignition with PSpice interesting:

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That's not to say that there might be some old-timers who have tinkered with the value of the capacitor and may have noticed some effect and drawn some conclusions from this. There may be some subtle effect occurring but I don't know what the heck it might be, and it's apparently so subtle that Google ain't talking. Maybe some old-timer can correct me -- this little Squirrel has much to learn about how engines work.

Until then, I'm sticking to my original assertations that the sole function of the condenser is to prolong the life of the points by slowing down the collapse of the coil's magnetic field long enough to let the points open enough so back-EMF cannot arc across the gap between them; and that as long as the capacitance is neither so large that it slows things down to the point where there is no reliable spark, nor so small that it permits points arcing, it's the right value and dorking around within those two limits is a waste of time better spent enjoying the sunset or chasing girls.

-- Mike "Rocket J Squirrel" Elliott

71 Type 2: the Wonderbus 84 Westphalia: "Mellow Yellow (The Electrical Banana)" KG6RCR

Dammit, Chris -- now no one is going to want to follow /that/ act!!!

-- Mike "Rocket J Squirrel" Elliott

71 Type 2: the Wonderbus 84 Westphalia: "Mellow Yellow (The Electrical Banana)" KG6RCR

Try aircooled.net to be sure you get the right one. How about getting a Pertronix or Compufire for a SVDA from aircooled.net and do away with the points. The points rubbing block puts tension on the distributor shaft and helps cause distributor shaft wear. Your distributor will last longer when not usiong points. A Pertronix will last about 70,000 miles and your VW will be that much more high tech and run smoother..

I already got me a Compufire pointless setup sitting on the bench waiting for me to grind down the dizzie's rotor and to be popped in. I wuz just lookin' to see if there was some sort of explanation for my dealer's inability to find the right condenser for this dizzie w/ points.

This is both right and wrong.

The condensor together with the coil determines the resonant frequency. There are no 2 frequencies that need to be matched in some way.

But, the condensor does need to be chosen to give a rate of voltage rise at the points that is slow enough that the points won't arc as they open.

The system really doesn't care what frequency it rings at, but the rise time goes hand-in-hand with the frequency, so we really can't ignore it.

I'm impressed that Bosch manages to make all their coils work with the same capacitance, but that's probably a lot simpler than it sounds at first, since all their coils probably fall into just a very few groups electrically.

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----------------------------------------------- Jim Adney snipped-for-privacy@vwtype3.org Madison, WI 53711 USA

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Hello! I have a question : with a Compufire unit, do you need to keep the condenser?

Thanks!

You are taking the piss now??? If not the answer is no.

J.

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