First engine pull

FI = Fuel Infected!

I can drop a bug engine using a floor jack with 2 stands in 20 minutes flat!

...and 15min flat if carb version - from the rear

with AC -- takes 45 mins!

you must clean the case -- steam clean - then magnuflux case -- cracks will be at or around cylinder holes and oil pressure valve

also check the (remove valves) heads in the same manner -- cracks will be at spark plug holes and or between valve seats --

YES - just clean & repaint with hi-heat black paint.

New sheet metal doesn't always fit properly

Yes, you can -- is a bit difficult

You will need an engine stand to perform test -- and a way to attach starter, the electronic fuel pump and several devices that control the fuel infection

Bring'em on!

BBA

forgot -- AND cracks can be found @ or around main bearings if no inserts -- then at the studs as well!

BBA

Wow -- thanks, Billy!

It took me a couple of hours to pull it out, but I was being very careful (which was probably not really necessary, in retrospect). I was particularly paranoid about bending stuff or having forgotten to unhook something but it all went without a hitch.

Steam cleaning... That's a good idea because this engine is way beyond filthy! Was debating to power wash it, but steam cleaning is a lot better.. Also, would I just leave all the stuff on the engine as I get this done? (alternator, etc)

Magnaflux? I've never had to do this, but I take it that stuff helps you find cracks? Any auto repair place has it, I take it?

I did get the bugme video on rebuilding the engine and have several manuals - are there any other gotchas that I need to know? Especially since this one is fuel injected, are there specific FI things that I need to look out for?

Thanks!!

Before you attempted to pull the engine you should have dragged it to one of those self service quarter (are the a dollar now) carwashes with the high pressure hose --- couple iterations and it would be free of grease, oil and loose paint. The aftermarket tins are crap - doubt they would come close to fitting a FI engine. ave them sand/media blasted and if you have extra $ powder coated (or buy Eastwood's kit and do it yourself). A machine shop can hot tank your block and heads and use blue dye to check for cracks - you want to have them checked out to see if the block needs line boring anyhow --- and ya need the valves at least lapped.

Magnaflux only works on magnetic materials like steel. Won't show anything on aluminum or magnesium.

There are other techniques which do work on non-magnetic materials, however.

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----------------------------------------------- Jim Adney snipped-for-privacy@vwtype3.org Madison, WI 53711 USA

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Apparently misinformed!!!

You don't know what it is that your talking about

Again, misinformed!!!

Magnaflux uses small metal MAGNETIC particles to bring out the cracks!!!!!

BBA

no -- remove intake manifold, alternator/Generator, distributor -- entire ignition system should be removed use a screw drive to break off all the crud -- then use steam cleaner device -- don't spray anything electrical

no -

goto: sales and find a dealer near you -- youwant one can of their dry magnaflux. - cost per each can is not cheap!>

1). Keep those injectors in a clean place

2). Make sure that you mark each piston rod -- each rod should depict the cylinder # as well the direction in the case -- create a mark on both the end cap and the rod to ensure that the cap gets back to the correct rod! -- Don't mismatch rod caps

3) Make sure that you remove all the main bearing as well as rod bearings

4) The alternator pulley shaft has a "half moon" key -- don't loose it! -- use a large screw driver - angle it -- tip is on pulley @ a slight angle. Use a large mallet, hit the end of screw driver handle HARD several times -- should come right off - a puller will take an hour to remove pulley -- screw driver method takes minutes

5) Have the crankshaft mains checked for size and roughened -- use 320 grit emery clothe - procedure is known as "crankshaft blue-printing"

6) use 10mm off-set wrench to remove oil cooler (2 nuts) don't use water to clean out - use gasoline only

7) There are 4 possibly 5 main bearing pins -- use vise grips to remove -- don't loose them!!!

8) make sure that you remove oil pressure check valves and their springs

9) your heads valve guides/seats were made for leaded gasoline -- have them R/R to Unleaded type

10) if you have the head rebuilt (I recomend that yuou do) -- have the exhaust valves replaced with new ones

can't think of anything else

and you only know half of what you are talking about....you are not misinformed you are just uninformed..

Billy isn't quite the badass he believes he is...magnaflux does not use "small metal MAGNETIC particles" to bring out cracks....iron powder....the metal testing needs to be ferrous(look it up) to work with magnetic particle inspection....you won't find much iron in an aluminum cylinderhead therefore the part needs to be blasted or sonic cleaned the use a dye penetrant test on the surface....before you shoot off your mouth, especially to someone that has more experience than you(I.E.Jim Abney) you should do your homework....you have looked damn silly several times in the last few days...Leory brown maybe, but not billy badass, thats for sure....

dye penetrant....common for nonferrous metals such as aluminum or magnesium...you surely aren't confusing the name "magnaflux" with the process that has become known as "magnafluxing" are you?(note: Magnaflux is the brand name of the top producing magnetic particle inspection equipment for the past five decades, hence the "xerox" syndrome)

the factory rods have cast in marks for "direction"...no need to mark for that...

4b) buy new pulley to replace bent one from using procedure "4"

"checked for size and roughened" does not equate "crankshaft blue-printing"...you are "apparently misinformed"....

good luck stretching that 10mm wrench around the nuts on a 75's oil cooler...make a video, i wanna see it....are you perhaps "misinformed"?

hell you think you know the rest of it, pick a number and stick to it, even if its wrong(stating wrong info hasn't been a problem for you so far)

"apparently misinformed"....."You don't know what it is that your talking about" the heads on every vw aircooled head after approximately 1965 had hardened valve seats for use with unleaded gasoline....

maybe go to a shop and ask em to "magnaflux" the heads...then run off when they start laughing?

sure hope Remco does his homework instead of just believing everything you tell him....

Your using the search engine too much!!! It's not a large issue -- you can use the magnaflux method -- do you work for a living -- let me give you a little back ground >> I run my own shop in Southern California and carry the ASE certification of Master Tech for the past 17+ years -- been running my own shop for the past 25+ years -- 9 techs work here. No, I don't specialize in VW's. We do however specialize in German Made Autos. And I happen to use magnaflux crack check for all aluminum alloy (not magnesium) heads and cases -- We do have a black light method as well -- speak to a sales person and they will explain the process for you - I have been using this process for 20+ years now!

no problem here pal

I have! when??

BBA

OMG -- FUDGE, yer right!

I have a can of the stuff rite here -- says right on the can "Magnafluxing"!!!!

BBA

I apolagize - I fugged that one up!!!

"Remco" wrote in news:1107882491.281602.314200 @g14g2000cwa.googlegroups.com:

Where "near" Connecticut? You might see if Simplex Engine in Providence will do it.

"Billy Bad Assr©" wrote in > Your using the search engine too much!!! It's not a large issue -- you can use

no search engine used...sorry to disappoint...having worked in a machine/fabrication shop for several years, i know my way around...if you are magnafluxing aluminum heads there is a good chance you are missing the cracks you are looking for...

lots of misinformation in your posts...from distributor to magnafluxing...haven't paid particular attention to your posts because of the misinformation....

by spreading misinformation? if you can't handle being corrected, then please do your homework first...

Like dye penetrant techniques, for example.

That's correct, but those magnetic particles follow the field lines that pass thru the part being inspected. If there is a crack in the part, AND if that part is made of a magnetic material, then the field lines will be distorted and concentrated at the edges of the crack and the magnetic particles will concentrate there.

If the part is non-magnetic, then the the field lines don't even see it, so they won't be distorted and they can't show anything.

To be fair, this is the way it would work if the field was DC, but I can imagine a different end result if the field was AC. An AC field would generate eddy currents in a non-magnetic material if it was a conductor. This might well create something visible at a crack, but a lot depends on the skin depth in the material and whether the field can penetrate enough that it can exit near a crack.

Accepting the fact that I may have misunderstood something here I googled on magnaflux and found this FAQ at the Magnaflux Corp's web site:

which starts with this comment in their FAQ:

surface and near surface >discontinuities in ferromagnetic (material that can be magnetized) test materials.

and this one:

Perhaps you need to be more careful in your critism in the future, as jumping to conclusions like this tends to make you look foolish.

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----------------------------------------------- Jim Adney snipped-for-privacy@vwtype3.org Madison, WI 53711 USA

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surface and near surface >discontinuities in ferromagnetic (material that can be magnetized) test materials.

My bad!!! I did apologize for my ignorance - I too checked the magnaflux site before I had replied -- unfortunately I hadn't taken the time to actually read the stuff on the page -- oops...

It still is important to crack check the case and heads -- normally I just send the stuff out to the machine shop -- have them deal with it --

around 30+ years ago -- 1970s I worked at the local VW machine shop >V-Dubbs Machine< 5 solid years as a builder. Back-in-the-day I could do 4 long blocks a day! I do know what it is that I am talking about -- cept some of the time I forget stuff!

I really feel bad that I may have given inappropriate information to some one in this group and once again I apologize for my ignorance - won't happen again!!!!

...and Jim, I appreciate your well thought out reply/criticism.....

Regards

BBA

So tell me -- no need to chastise me -- I made a simple mistake -- is not that big of a deal -- I feel bad enough -- do you honestly think I meant to give inaccurate info?-- no, was truly not my intension!!!

I am very, very sorry! I feel awful. So bad in fact that I won't be posting here again -- not for a while anyways!

Bill E. Badaus