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Fuel Loss, and it starts funny

Last week my Bug started getting harder to ... start. It starts fine in the morning, and after a long day at work. But if I shut it off, and try to start it right back up, it's a little tough to get going. The engine rolls quickly, but without a spark. It seems if I give it a little gas, she will get going again, and irons out the stuttering.

It feels to me like she is getting too much gas (flooded a bit). And it also seems I am not getting as good gas mileage as I had been in previous weeks.

Is this a carb problem? I have been through Muirs book a few times to investigate, but his raps on carbs are all pretty short.

I also fiddled with the carb looking for anything "strange". I noticed if I play with the 'idle adjusting screw' (pull it pack), the idle cam level doesn't spring back with much 'umph'. The spring action seems a little tired out. But then again, maybe it's not supposed to be very springy. Kind of like a 'kung fu' action figure that spent a few years in the sand box.

I have read this same complaint many times (bad economy, hard to start) but I don't think that their problems/solutions apply to what I am working with.

Also, the bug is a 68' (rebuilt stock) with a single carb' on it.

-Ray

Reply to
Ray Dios Haque
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Anyone have any ideas on this? The smells of gas is getting stronger, and my fuel econemy is getting worse. I keep sticking my head under the car looking for the gas I smell, but I find nothing. I am sure that I am dumping it into the carb.

Any hints would be gladly welcomed.

-Ray

Reply to
Ray Dios Haque

Check your oil level. If you have no wet spot, it's more likely blowing out your exhaust.

Reply to
jjs

I have had similar problems with my 67 bug. If the float needle valve doesn't seat or close, gas can overflow from the float bowl and run raw into your engine when it's not running. If you stop and then try to start the engine ,the car will be flooded and once it starts you will have to rev the engine to clean it out. I just ordered a rebuild kit for my Solex pict 30-1 carb. You could have a similar problem.. Fred 67bug

Reply to
Vw67lives

That sounds like it may be my problem. I should get one of those kits too. Who knows when is was last rebuilt. It might of been when the rest of the engine was rebuilt. But there's not telling since I did not own the vehicle then.

I also found some nice instructions in Muirs book about removing a screw style plug and blowing out the junk that builds up in there. I will give that a shot today. Might also give me an indication if the rebuild is necessary.

Also, can anyone tell me how springy the spring action should be on the choke throttle that hangs out the left side of the carb? Mine had hardly any spring in it, and it doesn't seem natural.

-Ray

Reply to
Ray Dios Haque

Could be leaking from a fuel line, they don't last forever, had mine replaced with copper like my brake pipes. Best time to check is after you've driven it. Also, after you've parked up for a few mins pull the throttle arm on the carb and see if any fuel leaks out of the throttle spindle.

--Steve

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-------------------------- Aircooled flat 4 club South West UK

Reply to
tunafish

Aren't you concerned about gas running past the rings and into the oil?

Reply to
jjs

I thought copper was a poor choice for brake and gasoline lines, but for different reasons for each.

Reply to
jjs

Yes,that is a very real concern and that's why I haven't been driving my car until my new carburetor comes and I can install it..Fred67bug

Reply to
Vw67lives

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