I've implemented tulz - part six

Hi ramva people, and specially, Bob Hoover, this evening I've implemented tulz part six, the pass through for the fuel line. What do you think of it?

formatting link
formatting link
I did not use the electrical things, but used a bolt of the right size (an un-molested bolt is seen on the first picture) . I'm to lazy to go to the hardware store, and I like to reuse old stuff I've lying around in my barn (hey....I'm dutch...need I say more?) . I've drilled a channel through the bolt myself (what a nasty job, I should have gone to the hardware store...).

So, what do you think of it?

Greetings, Gerrelt.

Reply to
Gerrelt
Loading thread data ...

-------------------------------------------

The object is to keep from setting your ride on fire. Whatever works is good. I recommended lamp parts because they're inexpensive, work pretty good and are commonly available. (Rich Kids use a regular aircraft bulkhead fitting & matching plumbing.)

Didja notice that little bit of exhaust pipe just below & to the right? The curvey bit, just before it dives into the heat exchanger? Running at speed, it'll be glowing a dull red. If you're still using rubber hose for your fuel line, the black hose will absorb a significant quantity of radiant heat, fail the thumb-nail test in about two years. If you lag the exhaust stack with at least three turns of stainless steel foil, secured with safety wire, it will reduce the radiation by about half.

Or do it the other way: Put a heat shield over the fuel line hose. They've got some dandy stuff nowadays -- silly cone rubber outside, fluffy Fiber-frax lining. Good to about 700 degrees. Expensive but it doesn't wear out.

Now consider doing BOTH -- protecting the hose AND wrapping the exhaust stack.

Yeah, the stack will rust-out faster... only last thirty years instead of fifty or whatever. If that's an issue, have it bead-blasted and apply a cermet thermal barrier coating. You can apply Ceramachrome yourself; the heat of the stack will cure it. But it will only reduce the radiation by about 15%... which is good enough if you're also running an insulated sleeve on the fuel hose. (Po' Boys cut up a tin can, make a rigid heat shield, pop-rivet the thing to the breast-tin so it pokes out like little roof, blocking the radiation path. Of course, you bleed a lot trying to get at the exhaust nuts & heat exchanger cable... )

If it's an early bus there's a few other things you can do to improve your fuel system... next time you pull the tranny :-)

-Bob Hoover

Reply to
Veeduber

I used lamp parts -- had some in my Dad The Handyman's Big Drawer o' Swell Parts. But the additional information you just posted about the heat radiating from the exhaust pipe did give me pause. The next time I pull the engine I'll at least patch a bit of reflective foil or something over the fuel line to help keep it cooler.

ON ANOTHER TOPIC DEPT. Anyone know where a fellow could find a suitable valve that could be used with 5mm fuel line? I want to install a fuel cutoff in the engine room to thwart the more simpleminded thieves.

Reply to
Mike Rocket J. Squirrel Elliot

All you need to do is pop open teh two clips of the distributor cap, open it and put the rotor in your pocket. Then put the cap back on. Nobody will never look, and if they try to start the car, all they manage to do is drain the battery. They'll soon think there's something wrong with the engine and move on.

Don't lose the rotor while running around at Macy's. ;)

Jan

Reply to
Jan Andersson

Aw shoot. That's too simple.

Reply to
Mike Rocket J. Squirrel Elliot

But it's an electrical part ;)

Jan

Reply to
Jan

Reply to
ilambert

Love it. Great idea.

Reply to
Mike Rocket J. Squirrel Elliot

MotorsForum website is not affiliated with any of the manufacturers or service providers discussed here. All logos and trade names are the property of their respective owners.