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Ignored 66 Karmen Ghia with binding brakes...

Hello everyone. I have been lurking about in this forum for a couple of weeks now. Seems like a great bunch of guys here (with the exception of some Mario character!). I recently "inherited" a 66 Karmann Ghia. As 66 anything goes, she's in great shape. The car belonged to my Grandmother. She broke her elbow about 4 years ago and now at the age of 92 can't shift the thing anymore. So here I am with a 66 KG that has been sitting for most of the 4 years. I have been getting lots of info from the posts and have managed to actually get her (we call her Annie Mae) running. She still needs work, but she's registered and today I ran her up and down the street. It was great!

"Big Deal" you say. Well, here is my dilemma. When I apply the E-Brake, the brakes don't always disengage when I release the handle. I had to use the adjuster to get the brakes loose enough to move her at one point, and as soon as I set the brake, bang, locked up again no matter what the position of the handle.

I haven't spent much time under the car, other than the original rust check (NONE that I can see). So where should I be looking for binding points on the cable? Is it run through a carrier of some sort or just out where I can see it? I have no fear of disassembling the back brakes, but if I know where to look and what to look for before I start, then things should go easier. Oh, and what size is that nut that holds on the back drum? The drum has holes for 5 nuts.

Thanks guys. The Skipinator

Reply to
Skip 66KG Lawson
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I would inspect the rear brakes before anything else, it could be worn actuating levers for the e-brake.

You can also easily check for cable binding by releasing the cable at the handle/lever and tugging on the cables behind the backing plates. I have never heard of a binding cable unless severely frayed. If it is frayed it should also have stretched to the point of having to max the adjustments on the handle/lever.

The nut on the rear axles is 36mm and torqued to some insane value I don't remember here and now. You will need 3/4" tools with a long cheater bar, or a torque multiplier tool like the TorqueMaster(Right name?) have a look in the various on-line shops for the tool.

J.

Reply to
P.J.Berg

Grandma was driving a Ghia until age 88?? WhooHoo! She must be quite a gal.

Before you go any further, bookmark this page:

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Study it well, until your shop manual arrives.

I wonder if the drums have rusted, contributing to the brake lockup. Go for a drive, using the foot brakes repeatedly, and see if the handbrake problem gets any better before tearing into it.

Tread very carefully working on the rear brakes; there are surprises lurking for the unwary.

The 36mm nut is torqued to 250 Foot Lbs!! Yes! You can buy a special torque-multiplying wrench or use a stout 3/4" drive breaker bar (NOT a swivel type) along with a 4 foot length of pipe.

HOWEVER....when you do get the drum off, all the Hypoid oil in the tranny will promptly exit into your lap (and driveway). (Exaggeration added for emphasis.)

Do NOT use the original jack to lift the car. Even though your car shows no rust, the jacking points put tremendous stress on the inner sheet metal structure. Get a small floor jack. I have a pic of places to safely jack from here:

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a pair of jack stands too; don't get under the car without them!

The most complete manual is the Bentley:

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shares most of the Beetle design) Consider the Idiot Guide and the Haynes manual as well on the same page.

You can also find a wealth of info on my web site (shameless plug):

Speedy Jim

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Reply to
Speedy Jim

Hayes Manual arrived yesterday but haven't opened it yet. I will get a Bentley to accompany it. I am glad I asked about the brakes, the oil in the axle would have been a HUGE surprise! The last time I worked on my own vehicle was back in high school, and I graduated in 198*COUGH*. Kind of nice to get back to the basics.

I will try the drive it around scenario before opening up that can of worms. The oil in the tranny probably needs to be changed anyway.

As for my Grandmother, she's a pip. She grew up in Humbolt County in Northern California. Logging country. She is the 13th of 14 children. She has been a logger, a trucker (logs), and owned a fishing boat with my Grandpa. The phrases "self sufficient" and "independent" do not begin to describe that woman. She broke her elbow mowing the lawn! With a pull start gas motor mower!

Anyway, thank you for your help. I will be around this board for a while. The idea is to do a complete body-off restoration. My Grandfather drove my mom to the hospital in this car the day before she had me. This car is more than transportation, it is TRULY family. I don't want to mess this up.

Reply to
Skip 66KG Lawson

Regarding Jim's comment on tranny oil, it was a joke and exaggeration. Nothing will gush out until you disassemble the wheel bearings with seals to get to the backing plates and axle tubes.

J.

Reply to
P.J.Berg

The idea is to do a complete body-off restoration. My Grandfather

Easy goes it on the body off resto. If it's rust-free, the body may not need to come off.

Anyway, have a look at these 2 sites with great pics of body-off:

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SJ

Reply to
Speedy Jim

AND DON'T LET 'BONDO BOY' NEAR IT. AKA MARIO

Jr

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Reply to
Jerry - OHIO

I drove from Ohio to Kuntucky in my buddys 68 that thing buzzed down the pike, I was impressed how it drove.

Jerry

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Reply to
Jerry - OHIO

The "drive it around" method seems to have 'fixed' the hand brake problem. Thank you.

It's very odd driving the KG. My current everyday is a 4 door long bed truck. I am use to taking turns VERY wide and parking way out on the outer edge of everything just to avoid the old back and fill problem. As all of you are aware, the VW seems to be able to spin on some invisible pivot under the center of the car. A little disconcerting.

Reply to
Skip 66KG Lawson

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