longblocks, turnkeys and bears, oh my!!

I just recently bought one of their 1776 "Phantom" engines and all i can say is awsome!, started up and nothing but powa hehe, its awsome, havnt had any problems with it at all, runs great, has great power, i highly recommend them, whatever you do dont go with a GEX heh!! i had one of theirs awhile ago and it was garbage....

Buy a longblock and complete the package yourself. It may sound rude, but you really should not own a VW anymore if you can't do the basic work yourself, because there's a good chance that

if you try to get someone else to do it.

Buy the longblock, and get the parts separately. YOU have control over the quality and selection of parts you are bolting onto it. For example, you can get a german carb instead of the "normally supplied" Bocar carbs. Another example is the budget heater boxes most "turn-keys" have; these heater boxes are made and supplied for mexican cars. I assure you the heat provided by mexican heater boxes is fine for a 60F evening in Cancun, but won't even de-numb your toes if you live somewhere with more "normal" winters. Good heater boxes cost more, but they put out a LOT of heat. I'll also bet that most "turn keys" come with that POS 009 distributor, which is a good paperweight on your desk but not much more.

The point I'm making is that you buy parts you want and need, not wasting $ on inadequate parts that you don't.

John Aircooled.Net Inc.

All turnkeys are not the same.

a good one will cost you bucks- Longblocks are a good way for an engine builder that is great to get a crappy reputation. all it takes is one turn of the dizzy to ruin all his work, and him catch the blame, thats why I haven't built one since 1995

You must be in Arizona.....

Don't buy your motor at BAP. I have one of their 'rebuilt' 1600 engines in my 74 super right now, and it's a drippy piece of crap. After 11,000 miles the endplay was already out of spec, and when I went to fix it I found out the reason was the front main bearing was sliding back and forth in the case. Add to that the fact that the cylinder head studs weren't torqued correctly, and the heads they installed were flycut so deep that they put shims under the barrels AND in the combustion chamber to bring the deck height back to normal, plus they were both cracked between the valve seats. I ended up installing new heads and shimming out the endplay as best as I could.

In the end, this 'good price' longblock has cost me a lot of money. I'm just biding my time with it now(and the leaks it leaves on the floor from the case halves not being sealed up) until it dies and I can get a real motor.

Chris

Holy shit! Do 1970 Bugs have these "dizzy" thingys? I want to be sure not to turn it on mine. 8/

You are the man, Jake. Your engine is running better than ever. I can hardly believe it, but times don't lie.

I ended up ordering the turnkey from BAP. If it turns out that it sucks ass, and leaks a bunch of oil, and sucks a valve, I'll fill everybody in. John, I know you meant no rudeness, but this is not the first time I have encountered the philosophy of do your work your self or drive something else. I take it with a grain of salt, but I gotta respond. Yes. I should do all of the work on my engine. But, somedays, I am willing to pay 30 bucks for a valve job so I can have the extra 30 minutes to spend with my kids. It all depends on where you are at, and what your priorties are, I guess. If it turns out I order a german carb or a heater boxes from you in the next 6 months, you will know why! ;-)

Like Dave Chapelle says, keep it real.

Austin

"John Connolly" wrote in news: snipped-for-privacy@uni-berlin.de: