In and Out -- 5-1/2 hours

Personal best.

Had to pull the engine out of the Wonderbus to re-torque the heads (due to head on shoulders torqued too loosely resulting in same situation on heads when I put the engine in last time).

Time to pull engine, pull tin, re-torque heads, re-install engine with detour to install dash-mount reverse gear lamp: 5-1/2 hours. Laughably long for most of you I bet. But not bad for my second time, I reckon. Carbs need to be dismounted to get the engine outta the back o' the bus.

Hardest part is getting the engine to go back into place. Either the engine mounts on the mustache bar interfere, or the output shaft on the engine just /does not/ want to slip sensuously into the transmission. Shove. Push. Raise engine try again. Lower engine try again. Woggle from side to side. Pull back and stare at situation. Repeat.

If anyone has a procedure that simplifies this part of the drill, I'd appreciate hearing it.

But one thing's for sure: I never could have done it the first time if it wasn't for the encouragement of everyone on RAMVA. With that under my belt, I had a lot more certainty about this one.

Reply to
Mike Rocket J. Squirrel Elliot
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Not bad at all!! :o)

J.

Reply to
P.J.Berg

------------------------------------------------------- Not bad at all for a 2nd try. (The first always takes... whatever time it takes.)

It gets better. It doesn't get EASIER, you just stop thinking about it so much at a conscious level.

But it will never get as easy as with an early bus. Removal of the bumper and rear body panel leaves the engine hanging right there -- no rear cross-member. Removal (and installation) is a simple Out & Down procedure.

Not so with the bug or 'loaf. Jacking up the ass-end puts the power-train into a slight nose-dive. To get it out, things generally go pretty good but plugging it back in means sliding down a slight incline.

Some folks figure this out without reasoning it out and never have a problem. Others never figure it out at all, have to call for someone to come and plug the thing back in. (A few get so torqued by the geometric realities of Main Shaft Alignment they chop the ass-end off their bug, call it a Baja Bug... or reattach it with sheet-metal screws, the way they do in Finland.)

Packaging the engine as a pod that can be demounted by pulling four bolts and a few wires is definitely smart engineering, good evidence you're dealing with a machine that was DESIGNED with maintainablity in mind. Most modern-day designs reflect a different philosophy, one influenced by accountants and the Bottom Line rather than engineers and Customer Satisfaction.

Last fall a friend who is a line mechanic at the local Ford dealer invited me to stop by and take a look at their new SUV. "You won't believe it," he said.

I didn't. On my way home I was still smiling... until I realized there were Americans dumb enough to buy such vehicles in the guise of 'personal transportation'.

The best slaves are the ones that don't realize they're wearing chains.

-Bob Hoover

Reply to
Veeduber

I set up my engine cradle / jack to pull engine and tranny together. That eliminates that problem. Don't anyone mention all the other problems that substitute for it! -BH

the heads (due

situation on

engine with

hours. Laughably

time, I reckon.

back o' the bus.

Either the

shaft on the

transmission.

again. Woggle from

drill, I'd

first time if

that under my

Reply to
Busahaulic

Cool man! last i I did it, it took me the whole morning just to put it back!

Mike Rocket J. Squirrel Elliott wrote in this friggin' newsgroup:

Reply to
Ant

Pretty good time ;-)

Bill, '67 Bug.

Reply to
Bill Spiliotopoulos

1) put tranny in gear (any gear will do) 2) rotate engine pulley back and forth as you push it in, the splines will eventually match each other and it will slip in easy. You dont' even need to rotate WHILE you push, just turn the crank over "a nudge" and try again.

Jan

Reply to
Jan Andersson

Agreed, that's pretty good. I can hear the confidence grow across the Atlantic :)

Jan

Reply to
Jan Andersson

umm.. what?

LOL

:D

FYI: I used std 8Mm hex head bolts on the 67, right where they used to be to begin with (fender bolts).

The 68 convertible has a removable rear end alltogether, steel guide rails and secured in place with 8mm hex heads also. The rear apron is welded on, the whole rear clip is one piece still. Fenders do come off like normal.

Add to this my engine wiring, all wires go through a big 7 terminal trailer wire plug. Nice, neat, no chance of getting any wires mixed up. Engine removal and assembly is a SNAP.

:)

My mods may not be pretty to look at at this point, but I'm experimenting with functionality. Not hunting for beauty queen trophies. (for my cars that is)

Jan

Reply to
Jan Andersson

All this talking about pulling, does pulling ones Willie count??? I'm pretty good at that, seriously! :0)

J.

Reply to
P.J.Berg

One trick I use to slip the motor in is to work the motor in far enough to get the bottom studs in. Have the jack a little low so the top of the engine to trans gap is bigger than the bottom. Then lift the motor from the header or pipes and push. If the motor won't go in all the way rotate the front pulley slightly and try again. Tying to get the jack the exact right height is tough. Lifting and rocking will hit the sweet spot.

2 cents.

Theo

BTW - I pulled the engine from my ghia, re-torqued the heads, put on a sump, installed dual carbs and new fan shroud. Took me 6 - 7 hrs but the sump leaked. Oh well, the motor went right in.

Reply to
Theo McCormick

Reply to
Braukuche

Spare us from your secret handshake, please.

Way too much information.

:)

Jan

Reply to
Jan

Put the car on gear (1st for example) and rotate the back wheels a bit. Then try to push it in again. Rotating the engine a bit will also do, but I found it easier to rotate the wheels. This will=20 rotate the transmission drive shaft and make the clutch disk=20 splines (possibly) match the shaft.

The third time will be there before you know it...=20

Reply to
Olli Lammi

"Mike Rocket J. Squirrel Elliott" wrote in news: snipped-for-privacy@adelphia.com:

I nominate this guy for Rookie of the Year! Way to go Mike!

My number's up next, btw. Time to get dirty :-)

Reply to
cloud8

I remember reading that the worlds record for a timed event VW engine pull competion . That a is stock VW bug, 4 technicians, was something like 2 1/2 mins.? Anybody else heard of such a thing? Or is it Urban Legend ?

"Wild" Bill and "Blondie" Linda Tucker

President and First Lady Rare Air VW Club Pensacola, FLorida

'78 VW Bus ( "Old Rusty" )

'76 Bug Resto Custom ,1776, Front Disc, T-3 Rear brakes, "Prowler Purple."

'69 Squareback , Arizona car, Automatic, "Blondies' Car"

'67 Squareback

Rare Air VW Club Website:

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or

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Reply to
Wild Bill

Opps.. Should have gone to Google 1st.... From a 1998 thread..

"2 minutes, 17 seconds, at Bug - In # 25. Fred Simpson and Rand "Zubie" Foster. Fred is making the old Super 8 filmof the engine pull into a VCR tape for me. That was- when the gun went off ,the two man team went ahead with a floor jack, jack stands, and tools 10 feet, raised the car, put it on stands, pulled the engine, dragged the engine back 10 feet, dragged the engine forward 10 feet, installed the engine, took the car off the stands, lowered the car down, started the car, and both team mates had to be in the car, and drive it forward 10 feet. The car had to pass a tech inspection before and after the engine pull to make sure that all nuts and cables and wires were on tight and operational. I've seen the Super 8 film, or I wouldn't believe it either, but they did it..."

"Wild" Bill and "Blondie" Linda Tucker

President and First Lady Rare Air VW Club Pensacola, FLorida

'78 VW Bus ( "Old Rusty" )

'76 Bug Resto Custom ,1776, Front Disc, T-3 Rear brakes, "Prowler Purple."

'69 Squareback , Arizona car, Automatic, "Blondies' Car"

'67 Squareback

Rare Air VW Club Website:

formatting link
or

formatting link

Reply to
Wild Bill

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