Mexican 'New Style' Thermo For Cooling Flaps, Any Problems With These?

Well, I installed it. I have been told that this new style thermo keeps the flaps closed longer to heat the engine faster for the fuel Injection models.

I made sure that it opened after it warmed up. It looked like it had opened and I felt warm air flow coming out past the thermostat. The outside of the case felt warm to touch but not hot. I took it for a test drive. The heater worked after just a couple of miles. I hope the heads do not get too hot.

With this set up, I guess it won't matter so much if the heat riser is cloged or not.

I plan to drive it just about five miles or less, in the mornings when it is cool outside. Next Spring, when I do not need a heater, I will replace it with the original German thermostat.

Did the new therm change how early the heat started? Heat is generated by the exhaust of #3 and #1 not head temp. To get the exhaust gases hotter, I think you'd want to run leaner and/or a more retarded ignition.

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Yes!

I do not want to lean it out to make it run hotter. Gene Berg said do not 'lean it out'. The instructions that i got to set the timing to was 7.5 btdc with the vac hose on the SVDA distributor plugged. What should I set the timing to so it will be retarded? But, if I do, then that will contradict what John Conolly told me to do.

I got most of my information from this:

To play it safe, I was thinking of buying a Craftsman Infrared Thermometer with Laser Pointer Sears item# 03482327000 Mfr. model# 82327 $59.99 US Measuring ratio 1:6 target to distance (1 in. spot at 6 in.) Accurate to 6 feet Measures -58 to 518 deg. Farenheit or -20 to 270 deg. Celsius with

2.5% accuracy LCD displays temp instantly, uses 2 AAA batteries, not included Max button display maximum measurement

But, what is the maximum safe temp of the cylinder heads?

Rust is an insulator Are your heater fins rusted

not if they are factory heatexchangers... the exchanger was not steel...

I got most of my information from this:

To play it safe, I was thinking of buying a Craftsman Infrared Thermometer with Laser Pointer Sears item# 03482327000 Mfr. model# 82327 $59.99 US Measuring ratio 1:6 target to distance (1 in. spot at 6 in.) Accurate to 6 feet Measures -58 to 518 deg. Farenheit or -20 to 270 deg. Celsius with

2.5% accuracy LCD displays temp instantly, uses 2 AAA batteries, not included Max button display maximum measurement

But, what is the maximum safe temp of the cylinder heads?

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checking cylinder head temp after stopping or idling is nearly useless....

I'm referring to the header pipes inside the heat boxes They are not steel or iron?

I learn something new every day Can't help it because I'm just so stupid

In October 1999 or so, way back when Rocky Mountain Motorworks was still in business, I got a pair of Dansk made stock heater boxes for my near stock 1973 Beetle with a 1600cc DP Type I upright. They are not as well made as the OEM German heater boxes. At least they are not as heavy. These are all metal. They have a metal heat sink inside. It is not just a pipe covered with the outside of the heater box. The OEM German boxes had a ceramic heat sink on the inside of the heater boxes.

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I guess that just about settles it.

I think I am going to remove the 'new style' Brazilian made F.I. thermostat and re-install the German Wahler thermostat. I think I will not even use the heater. That way I will not have to worry about exhaust fumes getting in the cabin.

the pipes running from the forward cylinders are steel, yes.... the heat sink on the pipe is not steel...

stock thermostat is just fine and keeps the heat nice and hot....

I re-checked the 'new style' Brazilian made F.I. thermostat one more time. It appeared to have opended all the way. According to my VDO oil temperature gauge, the engine was not up to operating temperature yet. It read about 140 degrees F. So, 140 on the gauge + 40 degrees for the sender being 40 degrees off is approximately equal to about 180 degrees F calibrated temp, I suppose. Operating temperature is something like 220F/180 + 40F or so is it not?

I replaced the 'new style' thermo with the original German 65 - 70C bellows type. When it gets really cold out and I wish I had the heater working then I might re-install the 'new style' Brazilian made F.I. thermostat.

oil temperature is not the best way to gauge "operating temperature"... your engine can be overheating badly long before you will see it on an oil temperature gauge.... trust the thermostat.

unless you have something amiss in your heating system it won't make a difference....