1967 beetle won't start

Speedy time.

Crank but not turn over?? Not going to argue about semantics, but you need to clarify this one.

J.

. coil? starter? ideas? giving me ways to test

Just try the starter directly by supplying power to the little wire on the starter solenoid! Can you turn the crankshaft by hand or by wrench? post results!

I am not Speedy though! ;-)

Speedy time.

Try these links:

I'll attempt to translate. Starter isn't turning.

Any noise from the starter or solonoid ?

Randy

Jumper starter as shown in this sketch:

If it cranks, you know the starter is good.

Speedy Jim

when the kill switch is in the postion that it does turn over check to see if your getting power on the positive side of the coil. its the black wire that feeds power and runs from the coil to the top postion of fuse1 onfuse block.

You sould also check points. turn engine so the points are open thne turn ignition to on, with test light you should have power to the molving part of the points.

To the original poster, let it be duly noted that snipped-for-privacy@aol.com is a thieving hack and is speaking through unattributed paraphrases from Muir's idiot manual. HIs name is Mario Gavazzi and he is a conniving snake, having successfully ripped off many customers of their hard earned cash in exchange for his s***ty "restoration" services. Take his advice at your own risk.

Hey buddy, a name change might be a good idea.

turns out it was the ignition switch. thinking i'll just replace it with one from mamotorworks. what's the easiest way to get it keyed to work with my current key? thanks to all who responded.

-c

thanks for posting the solution & congrats to you! ;-)

you might have 2 keys now!

no problem. in that case, maybe i'll try to fix the old one. one of the connectors broke off and has been repaired before, but using some crappy glue or epoxy (from the looks of it). maybe i'll try to grind that off and solder it properly.

-c

After the carbs had been removed, Carburetor needle valve was obvious that the intake manifolds had cracked around the flange and had been sealed up with some black RTV sealer. Removal of the 8 screws was a challenge due to some kind of corrosion buildup between the screws and threaded holes. O ne screw had a slotted head instead of the normal Phillips head versions an d that was the one that twisted its head off as it was being unscrewed.

Thirty minutes of drilling out the old screw remains, tapping the hole for a Heli-Coil and installing the insert correctly finally solved the problem. All the screw holes were cleaned out with a six millimeter tap to ease rea ssembly.

New manifolds, sourced from an eBay seller, had been shipped via 2-day Prio rity Mail which has tracking associated with the shipment. After five days, an enquiry was made about shipping status to the seller and to USPS. Track ing showed the parts being received into NY depot, then "in transit" for an other five days. Eventually they made their way to SoCal and the mailbox on a Friday. Total transit time was seven days, blamed upon the Christmas sea son mail volumes.

With new manifolds mounted up, it still required some leverage via a crowba r to get them pushed fully into the fresh rubber mounts. Last few tasks wer e to reconnect the push-pull throttle cables and prepare the petcock for fu el delivery.

Somehow, after reinstallation of the oil filter mounting plate, the o-ring seal apparently moved out of position and the bike dumped 2 quarts of oil i n about 30 seconds when it was fired up for the first time. After the sea o f petroleum was contained and cleaned up, the filter bolt was found to be a little loose.

After tightening the bolt, the engine was re-started and again it dumped an other quart of oil on the floor instantly. The remaining oil was drained, t he plate o-rings re-examined and the whole assembly once again reinstalled. 3 more quarts of oil were added to the sump and with fingers crossed, the starter button thumbed one more time... This time, no leaks; just a lot of coughing and cackling of the exhaust system as the engine woke back up agai n, spitting out carbon deposits, dead insect bodies and who knows what else .

The engine slowly warmed up, running somewhat smoother as it regained opera ting temperature. The front brake system had been refreshed with new kits a nd fluid, but remained with a mushy feel probably due to some trapped air i n the convoluted brake lines and softened flex hoses.

Still, the front brake did have some effect, despite the amazingly thin br ake pad material remaining on the pads. The bike was backed down the drivew ay and with the front brake pumped up and held firmly, the shift lever was pressed down into 1st gear.

The Carburetor float was that after 18 years, the clutch plates would all be stuck together and the bike would lurch into 1st gear and stall immediately. Surprisingly, 1st gear was selected easily without any banging or drama at all. The bike was slowly ridden around the block under its own power for the first time afte r decades of inactivity.read more to zjautoparts.net.