Nasty bit of business - need advice

Forget the cables. Winter: short length of baling wire to tie the lever open. Summer: cut baling wire.

If you *really* want the cabin warm, build a partition behind the front seats (plywood/canvas/cardboard) so the heater boxes only have to warm the front.

Repeat annually.

Speedy Jim ('78 Bus)

Speedy -- nice straightforward advice, that -- tying the lever open in winter, but here in SoCal, the mornings can be chilly while driving the kids to school (who decides that high school should start at 7:30? All the studies show that teenage brains don't start working until 9am. Or until they reach the age of 22 or so, but I digress . . . ), but in the afternoon, it can be pretty warm. Also, our days right now are variable, one day it is overcast and cool, the next (like yesterday) a Santa Ana wind kicks in and the temps are in the upper 70's. So adjustability is pretty essential.

Dan E-- this is the kind of thinking that an electronics guy just isn't used to doing. Using baling wire -- a fine suggestion. Crude, primitive, and effective. A follow-up question: We don't farm here, so where does one find baling wire?

I use picture hanging wire, probably not as strong as true bailing wire but you can get stuff rated to 100 lbs so it's strong enough for most.

Home Depot sells what you're wanting.

Mike, I am partial to 16 gauge wire available at Lowes or Home Depot. I live in San Diego so I know what you mean about the variable temps especially this time of year. Heater on in the morning and dreams of air conditioning in the afternoon.

--Dan E

You can use all sorts of different wire instead of baling wire. You can get short rolls of usuable wire at almost any hardware store. Even Wallyworld. Got a Tractor Supply store near you ?

I couldn't live without baling wire and duct tape.

Randy

Tractor Supply? No -- but a lot of surfboard shops. Probably not the same, I guess.

Hi .The lever and barrel connector are readily available and connect to the heat exchanger valve rather easily(after lots of cleanup).But if the cables themselves are broken,it gets hairy.Steve

Close but not quite.

Randy

They do? I thought I looked pretty closely at where the lever and the cable hanger are connected, and where the lever connects to the axle of the flapper valve, and they both seemed to be swaged on.

Cables move when the cockpit levers are pushed and pulled, so I think the control bone is connected to the cable-end bone.

Didn't think so. For one thing, you won't see any plaid in a surf shop.

Just went through the cable drill for throttle and heat-controls on my 63.

http://63.230.74.177/baja/page6.html Max

And you can't eat a surf board.

Randy

....dunno....looks to me like you should be able top straigjhten it enough with a pair of needle nose pliers to insert the barrel nut and have it operate properly....however if you *prefer* baling wire...by all means band ai-d it all up.....just don't be surprised if ya ever sell it down the road if the next owner laughs. =-)))

...Gareth

Well, the photo is not clear. The cable hanger looks like an origami, or an illustration in a article about topology -- like, you *know* it was originally a donut-shape, but it has been twisted and scroonched so much that only a mathematician could tell. Looking at it, I don't think it's likely I could get pliers to where they need to be. It's too tight.