Just want to thank all those who helped me in choosing what setup to run in my beetle! A shiny new 1600dp with a 276 degree duration cam fired up on Saturday afternoon! Having never driven a 1600 (old engine was a 1300dp) it was quite a bit quicker. I'm not sure if it was the cams fault or the bigger engine!
I'm going to stick with a centremount carb for the time being, which one comes recommended for this engine set-up up? At the moment I'm still using a
30pict2 which is horribly starving this engine! It's a stock 1600 dp except has a 276 degree duration cam.
I would recommend a stock 34mm Solex, much like the one you already have. It will fit the 30mm manifold with an adapter, or maybe you could get an original 1600cc intake manifold. The bolt spacing for the carburator is bigger, and the intake manifold diameter is bigger.
To replace intake manifold, you need to remove fan shroud first.
If you want to try something a little bigger, maybe a centermounted dual throat Dellorto DRLA 40mm would be nice, I used to run one for many years in different engines. MUST have heated intake manifold!!! At that point you should replace the stock exhaust system with a 4-1 header system, maybe a single quiet pack muffler.
And whatever you do, make SURE you have the gasoline mixture set correctly, both adjusting screws AND jet sizes. Running too lean will destroy the engine.
Forgot to mention it is currently running the stock 1600 manifold, I've got the 30pict on with an adapter! Would the Dellorto be quiet easy to jet? Also I know it's hard to say, but what sort of ballpark power and torque figure am I looking at with this engine, (assuming 4-1 exhaust and stock 34pict carbie)? Does about 65-70hp sound roughly reasonable? How much would the cam assist in increasing power and torque?
How about this? DFEV? It's got a very trick heat riser and even a removable cleanout plug.
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I have one in the box, only a few hours on it, 100% complete, super clean ready to ship. $200 plus shipping. (I need the money to go towards a new ignition system fronm
I REALLY don't like the progressive webers. Takes a year and a half to get them jetted right (They were never intended for applications such as this, not even close).
Btw, 350 dollars (What you'd pay for a new progressive setup) buys you a complete set of used, but good 40mm duals. Two of them. Wit intakes, linkage and air cleaners. The whole deal. Easy choice :)
Allright, then the 34 would be a breeze to install!
Relatively easy. Needs to be jetted a little on the rich side, due to lower air velocity and long intake manifold. (Poor atomization at low rpms)
Not with that cam and carb. 60 would be just within readh, 70 won't be. I dynoed an engine that was a step or two hotter some years back:
1600cc Stock heads Centermounted Dellorto DRLA40
009 distributor Engle W110 cam (286 degrees advertised duration) something around 8.7:1 compression ratio
4-1 exhaust and one free-flowing muffler, 2"
Result: 74hp
The cam is The Key, but changing the cam alone won't make the engine work as expected/desired. Also need to pay attention to heads, compression ratio...
I have also seen (dozens) and helped build 1641cc engines that produce over 150hp with Kadrons, massively modified stock heads, and a custom made all-out race cam. And over 13:1 CR...
So if I concentrate on getting a bigger carb the 34pict or a Dellorto and a free flow exhaust I would settle at about 65hp but at the moment I'm just pushing the 60hp mark? Have I got it about right? Also were are the Dellortos available from? I live in South Africa and importing can be difficult not to mention expensive!
With a 34, you still might fall short from 60hp, in my opinion. Your cam is very mild. But you should get very good torque, and that might actually make the car feel more powerful, and give very good acceleration without having to use high rpms when accelerating. I bet it would be wonderful to drive in everyday traffic. If you want better performance than the 34, and cheap, you could also try to find a used Kadron kit. They are single throat carbs like the 34, but you get two of them, and they are 40mm. One for each side of the engine. As far as I know, they use Solex jets. It takes some time to jet them right for the engine, and the linkage has to work well and be adjusted right. But that's probably the best value for money, in this engine.
Used Kadron kits run in the 100 dollar range, maybe a little more for a complete kit with lkinkage, air cleaners and intake manifolds. When adjusted correctly, these would work better than any centermounted carbs.
Dellortos are not made anymore, so you would have to find them used. Weber IDF 40mm is almost identical in performance and operation, and has the same bolt pattern too. Those are still available new too.
It is very enjoyable to drive around town! It is a very smooth motor despite being so damn tight (can't turn it with my hand on the genie wheel as the belt just slips!) once it's run in it should be very quick!
Correct me if I'm wrong but weren't the stock 1600s 60hp? That's why I assumed with a better exhaust and stock carb I should surely match this! What I'm trying to find out is if all other things are equal what sort of power and torque increase percentage wise should this cam give me? I realize it's mild but surely an increase of about 5 - 10% would seem reasonable especially with better breathing!
haha! No way, in stock form they produce 47hp or thereabouts
Well, a W110 (286 degrees) with a centermounted dual dellorto and header exhaust, and 8.5:1 compression (Must have high octane gasoline) will get you from 47 to 70. Roughly. So yours is somewhere in between. Too many variables in the game to tell you exactly what your engine will make.
This is why I am guessing that you should be in the 60hp neighborhood.
..................To add to this thread, I'm going to be running Aircooled.Net's level 3 heads and a 118 grind WebCam on a 1679 (machine-in
88mm cylinders) that has the stock L-Jetronic FI and stock FI style exhaust. My best guess is that it'll make about 80 hp. For a daily driver, it should be a nice set-up.
..........Those *&^%$#@! big V-8 powered SUV's are going to eat my dust!............lol
Well I took it on the open road today (never exceeding 70 mph on the downhills and 60-65mph on the uphills) All I can say is DAMN! It's much faster than my good old 1300dp. The engine was wanting to go (sadly it was me who had to refrain)! But my one question is it suppose to run so damn hot while running in? I couldn't touch my dipstick for longer than 1 second! I've got the unslotted lid but I never pushed the motor that hard.
Also I'm running straight 40 and the oil pressure got pretty low! At times! I think my gauge is faulty though because after climbing a hill the oil light came on for a bit but the gauge showed about 20 - 25 psi. It's one of those combination light/gauge unit. Maybe it just got to hot?
That sounds like a really cool engine! I've definitely noticed a massive increase in power even with the stock carb. Just the bigger engine and cam! I have no trouble accelerating on the hills and although I never pushed it once it's worn in I'll have no trouble running 80mph and leaving those bigger heavy cars in my dust on the hills!
Oil pressure gauges have some "inertia" in the readings they show, the light reacts faster. So you might got low oil pressure for an instant and the oil pressure gauge couldn't catch it. Another thing to consider is the posibility that your gauge's threshold bellow which the oil light comes on, might be different than that of a stock oil pressure switch. Install a new stock oil pressure switch for a while. With the stock oil pressure switch, the low oil pressure idiot's light should never flicker on a properlly rebuilt engine, no matter if it is hotter than normal.
Did the oil light came on while driving on a tight curve? Check the oil level if it did so.
If your engine has low oil pressure, first thing to check without having to remove the engine, is the oil pump. No matter if you had a new oil pump installed, you must remove the pump and check it against the specifications. It is common for new oil pumps to have clearances beyond the wear limits, and some modification is required to make them perform correctly.
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