Engine Rebuild Time

Hi All

I hope everyone had a festive New Year! I have to start the New Year of with a engine rebuild, my 1300 twin port with bad big end bearing, spun the bearing heading home after some heavy New Year's celebrations, needless to stay it still got me home, never ceased, but was minus a lot of oil! Not having the correct machinery and time, to do it myself I'm sending it to a rebuilder!

I live in South Africa, so I doubt anyone would have heard of him! I'm getting it rebuilt as a 1600 twin port, I wanted to rebuild it as a 1776 but importing 90.5mm pistons is not practical for me at the moment. This rebuilder does rebuild the engine bigger using Toyota pistons, he says it's about a 1750 but the bore is only 88mm, which as far as I know is 1641, anyone heard of using Toyota pistons? Needless to say I'm a beetle all the way fan, and don't want some dodgy Toyota parts cramping the style!

I'm also getting my cam recut to a "stage 1 mild Cam" Can someone with more knowledge than me explain exactly what this is? I understand all about valve lift and duration, but all the cams I've seen for bugs have stated there duration and lift! Is a stage 1 up to a certain duration?

Other than the mild cam the engine will be completely stock, except with a

33 pict carb until I can get a Weber or twin carbs! Comments? Ideas? Suggestions?

Thanks in advance Regards Kevin

Reply to
Kevin
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No replies yet? I guess they didnt like the Toyota bit Kevin. Arrrrgh! Japanese parts in a bug engine? Hell no! Mortal sin! DONT let him f*ck your engine up! You would be better off with the stock 1600cc parts, not to mention tried,tested and reliable!

Reply to
BugThug

I agree fully with you, as I said I don't want Toyota parts, so I am settling for a stock 1600 piston set but with a mild cam! I would just like to know what a stage 1 cam means?

Regards Kevin

Reply to
Kevin

If I understand, your mechanic will be using 88mm Toyota pistons in the stock 1600 (85.5mm) cylinders, by oversizing the cylinders to 88mm. This is not good, especially if you live in a hot climate, the cylinder walls will be more that 1mm thinner, and will wrap causing blow-by, the first time you will overheat the engine. To reach 1750cc, he will also have to machine the crank (offset grind the rod journals to a smaller diameter) in order to achieve a longer stroke. I doubt that he will use a stroker crank, cause it would cost too much. He will probably use the Toyota connecting rods, to fit the piston wrist pin and the smaller crank journal. I don't know if he is planning to use the old crank with the burned rod journal from the spanned rod bearing, but he shouldn't, this crank is weak and should be tossed away. About the cam, stage 1 is not a spec but probably that's the way he calls a specific stage of tune he gives to his cams.

If I wanted a reliable daily driver, I wouldn't go with the above solution. I would prefer a stock properlly tuned 1600.

Bill, '67 bug.

----- Original Message ----- From: "Kevin" Newsgroups: rec.autos.makers.vw.aircooled Sent: Tuesday, January 06, 2004 1:40 PM Subject: Engine Rebuild Time

Reply to
Bill Spiliotopoulos

Hey gang, got a great idea! Why not reinvent the wheel for no reason whatsoever? We all have tons of money to do stupid things like this, right? Come on, what's holding everyone back? Let's GO!

Why not whittle down a ocean fairing ship's diesel connecting rods to fit while we're at it? Maybe chop a few throws out of one of those cranks too? Sounds good to me! YAY! This is going to be great, dontch think? I sure do! YAY!

Won't have to worry about warping, as our minds will be more than warped enough already! YAY!

This is gonna be great!

-ANT P.S. YAY!

Stop that. To reply change my ISP to @hotmail.com

Reply to
ANT

Stage 1 means whatever the person who claims it. In other words, it's an arbitrary term that has no real world common definition.

Go here and have all your worries eliminated:

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Stop that. To reply change my ISP to @hotmail.com

Reply to
ANT

ANT got his shiney metal ass in gear, I can see the blueprints taking form now.... lol...

YAY!

Jan

Reply to
Jan Andersson

or hell we can keep doing what was always done...we need to let people like John C, Bob hoover, Jake Raby, etc to *stop* coming up with "new parts"(which usually are an adaptation of some sort from a vehicle of another sort)....sheesh

------------------- Chris Perdue

*All opinions are those of the author of this post* "Sometimes you're the windshield, sometimes you're the bug"
formatting link
reply take your PANTS off
Reply to
Chris Perdue

My slam was not against new parts but how ludicrous some of the posts were in this thread. Some ding dong newbie comes in here with absolutely insane ideas of using brand X parts.........to me an obvious troll, then someone else believeses this guff and trys to "help him" by falling into this trap.

And until I bitch slapped them, you guys were going along with it all. Take off your rose colored glasses and see the turds in their true color.

-ANT

Stop that. To reply change my ISP to @hotmail.com

Reply to
ANT

Ant,

I am NOT a troll and have been involved with VWs for some years! However I'm still learning and have yet to rebuild my own engine (have a 1300sp lined up), I was in need of an engine rebuilder for my other engine, as I needed it by February! He told me he uses Toyota pistons when rebuilding larger than stock engines! I am against the use of "foreign parts" in VWs, hence the reason I posted as I've never heard of it before and was curious if anyone else had.

If you do not believe me and it is apparent that you don't, I will give you this engine rebuilders' telephone number and at the cost of an international call you can find out first hand for yourself! And then decide if I'm a troll or not!!

Have a nice day! Regards Kevin

Reply to
Kevin

You CAN (and many successfully have) use pistons from another make of car to fix up/build an engine for another.

The aircooled VW pistons however aren't symmetrical in the way the wrist pin attaches to the piston body. Almost all inline 4 (or 6, or 8 for that matter) pistons are, to my knowledge anyway. (Wrist pin located dead center of the piston body).

This is the first real problem that comes to mind.

It'll run, but not as long.

I don't see why you couldn't mix parts from other cars as long as they work right. I see it happen frequently with race engines, or souped up street engines. If you want to use a larger than stock piston bore on many inlline 4 cars, you will need to find a piston that matches the bore, height, and pin hole size. (Plus a few other factors but let's not go there for simplicity). It doesn't matter if they were intended for a Ford, toyota, Chevy, Mazda or Fiat. If they work, and are good quality.. then go for it. Just know what you are getting.

THIS case sample however doesn't sound too appealing, namely because of the bore size. Nevermind what pistons will be used, the 88mm cylinder bore itself is the problem. Cylinder walls get too thin. No piston would save the day here.

Jan

Reply to
Jan Andersson

ANT did you *actually* read the posters post? somehow i doubt it...it was not a troll, and to "bitch slap" someone that said his mechanic could modify a toyota piston to work in his vw, is simply moronic....and my post(sarcastic as it was) was dead on... do *YOU* want to tell Robert Hoover that *he* is a "ding dong" and maybe "bitch slap" him for his very informative post made to ramva on how to modify a *toyota* distributor to work (and work better than the "stock" piece) in a vw? have at it big'un... maybe those "special" pistons you have that you are so proud of that are an adaptation of existing "technology" already used in other vehicls are an "absolutely insane idea".....maybe you should spend a bit of time with your mind open instead of your (virtual) mouth....

------------------- Chris Perdue

*All opinions are those of the author of this post* "Sometimes you're the windshield, sometimes you're the bug"
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reply take your PANTS off
Reply to
Chris Perdue

Right, although I think there are metallurgical considerations that an air-cooled piston may need that don't come up with water cooled engines.

My impression is that almost all pistons are made with this offset. It has nothing to do with VW; it's just because of the rotating crank. There have been a few "high performance" pistons made for the VW that omitted this feature. I suspect that you're right that they didn't last long, but for high performance applications long life was not always a consideration. There are even people who claim greater power if you install the offset the wrong way. Personally I can't imagine why this might be considered a good idea.

This topic is discussed at length in the Bill Fisher book, "How to Hot Rod the VW Engine," which is an excellent book and still in print.

-

----------------------------------------------- Jim Adney snipped-for-privacy@vwtype3.org Madison, WI 53711 USA

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Reply to
Jim Adney

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