Not winning - valve geometry

Hi group.

Finally got my heads yesterday. Today, I'm set to get my car running again... but wait! Could there be _more_ surprises? But of course!

Pushrods are too short. From the look of the adjusters, geometry was never right. In fact, I notice that the rocker arms are free to slide back and forth about 1mm on the fancy hich-tech solid rocker shaft. In retrospect, I can now see why it destroyed a valve guide (though a kindlier engine would have kept it in the port, and not sent a piece into the cylinder ;)

Anyhow, Monday I'll order new adjusters, a set of cut-'em-yourself pushrods, and shaft spacers/shims.

Anybody ever buy from

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? Also, opinions on swivel-foot adjusters vs. standard are appreciated.

And, no, I don't know what cam lift is, nor do I know what the rocker ratio is. Pulled the oil pump hoping to see something, but there's no marking. bolt-on gear, though.

Ya gotta love getting stuck with someone's half-baked crap.

Chris

Reply to
ChrisKlinger
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The 911 type adjustors are expensive but last essentially forever. I am sti= ll using the set I got from GBE in 1999. They also help make valve lash muc= h more stable. I typically only need to change the lash if I've had to re-s= him the solid rocker shafts. Once or twice a year.

Max

Reply to
Max Welton

using the set I got from GBE in 1999. They also help make valve lash much more stable. I typically only need to change the lash if I've had to re-shim the solid rocker shafts. Once or twice a year.

The good: Porsche style, also called "elephant's foot" style. You can get these either genuine Porsche (#901 105 370 02) or copies.

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The bad: Captive ball type, aftermarket.
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work ok in stock applications, but these do not tolerate high lift cams/high rpms. They like to snap at the skinny neck. They also do not offer as much contact area as the 911 style. If you "miss" the tip of the valve for any reason, the cup that holds the ball hits the valve tip and the ball seizes. MUST use solid shafts to eliminate "misses".Personally, I will never use or recommend this type again. BOTH types require a solid lifter, the valve lash is needed to feed oil to the swivel joint or ball. With hydraulic lifters, the oil flow is completely blocked off.

Also need to make sure the oil holes on the screw vs. inside the rocker are lined up.

AND the ball/swivel adds height between the valve stem and the rocker, in many cases the underside of the rocker needs to be ground down to make room. Grind SLOW to avoid too much heat buildup. You may want to shim the rocker shaft up to gain more room that way. Shims often come with the adjuster kit. Also keep in mind the oil hole alignment needs to be maintained so simply shimming the rockers way up may not be the answer.

So neither type is a simple bolt-on mod.

Reply to
Jan Andersson

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