oil weight in So. California

I live in Wyoming and I use 20-50. I figure that 20 weight in the cold weather is plenty thin to flow adequately for around town driving. By the time I get it to the interstate, things have warmed up a bit. I might consider 10-30 if I lived in Fairbanks in the winter. - Robert

you don't buy that at all? i guess you've never had an owners manual nor an official repair manual? if you already have yor answer, why ask? everyone has their "opinions" on oil....here's mine...of your choices, in your colder months i would use the 10-30 or a 10-40....in the warmer months

They....?!!! When you say they changed the oil.... Hopefully it wasnt one of those quicky oil change places... I would never take my '66 to a quicky oil place. I just don't think most of them have a clue on air cooleds. Or understanding and appreciation of what it takes to do maintenance correctly. You said they were amazed it only took a few quarts... I rest my case. I bet they didn't clean/replace the screen and put in new gaskets, probably because they didnt know they are in there.

Along the gulf coast... I run mostly 20w-50, a bit thick in the winter time. so I change it out for 10w-30 in the winter, which arent that bad. But then again you do have to look at the times when it was designed/manufactured...

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Actually, I was putting on a new set of tires at the same time. They did change the screen as well. There was an older gentleman there who seemed to know what was up with the bug. The younger guys were less experienced with it but the older guy directed them.

Ok, don't get excited. 30 weight is all they had back then. We have more appropriate choices now. I used to use 30 in my 64 Dodge Dart.

Thanks, I'm sure that if it can take that extreme temp range, then it can sure handle our 20 degree variance in temp over here! Thanks for the info.

My old vanagon used to use 20-50 exclusively with no problem. 15-40 is definitely an option, though. It between 65-80 for about 90% of the year here so I really just need to settle on one grade. The engine is in pretty good shape and not very old from what the previous owner told me. It's running fine on the 10-30 right now and I could probably keep running that without worrying about it but it might not be the "best" choice.

......they've got to learn how to work on a "real" car sometime! Besides, I never take my eyes off of mechanics when they're working on the bug....even an oil change. It's a good idea to ask them questions first to see if they know what they are doing. Fortunately, there are still quite a few old air-cooled vw's running around southern california (there are four nice old beetles in my small neighborhood alone) so a lot of these guys are competent enough to change the oil. It's not magic or rocket science, after all. There are a hell of a lot more things they could screw up on a modern vehicle, I think. I know I'd rather work on my '66 than on my wife's 2006 Beetle! I don't even want to LOOK under the hood of that one.

that you are correct on, somewhat....but the 10-30 is a replacement "30" weight..(now lets not have to get all technical about oil viscosities, i know that was an over simplification...)

sorry dude, but running 20-50 at "well below zero" is just plain stupid.... you will have GREAT oil pressure...but pressure doesn't lubricate your engine's bearings.... buy an extra set, you'll need em...

Hey "Dude:"

Who said that I DROVE the car when the temps were below zero? I said that was the temerature range >>I live in Iowa and use 20w50 year round in the 1600 dual port that I have

use 20w50 year round in the 1600 dual port that I have

Hey Joey - Doesn't 20-50 mean that it has the flow characteristics of

yes using 20W-50 in the winter doesnt make a whole lot of sense... it is pretty thick when you are trying to start a cold engine in lower temp areas. When you think about how the aircooled engine is cooled... its aircooled... but its more complicated (if you want to call it that) than that... its air and oil cooled. Cool air passes over the cylinders and heads, yes aircoooled, but it also cool air passes through your oil cooler, cooling the oil, oil cooled, by air.

Now we get into the argument about flaps, thermostats, oil viscocities, valve settings, timing, pulley sizes, driving styles, body openings, gear ratios, outside temperatures etc, etc. When you look at all the different things that affect your engine temperature, you can see that each vehicle may vary from owner to owner depending on their locale, vehicle, skill and maintenance techniques. What maybe good for one may not be the best for another. Common sense is a big factor here, how does YOUR engine run? you drive it you should know.

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I think that for California, it should. It would be thinner than 30 when cold...which is great. It would be thicker than 30 when it's hot which is better...it'll stick to the sides more nicely. 10-30 is thinner at startup but acts like 30 when warmed up. Since it NEVER gets below 35 degrees here at any time, then 20-50 is probably plenty thin for startup and gives much more protection than 30 at hot running temps, especially in the summer. Thanks for all the info, guys. I think I finally have an answer that makes sense!

Not the best oil for below zero....but better than 30! What would one have used in these weather conditions in the old days? Something below 20 wt?

Well put, Dragenwagen:

Yes, I think "moderation" is the key to successful VW ownership.

-"Pan metron ariston" :Everything in moderation.