Pan quarters

Dear RAMVA, Okay, soon I am going need to weld in new pan quarters for my ghia. The front part of both sides is perfect, but the PO had run over some curbs and there is rust all under the undercoating and about half of the back half of the pan is crumbly (yipes!). Front part of the pan is very solid and I couldn't find any rust with my screwdriver (but I've gotta scrape off that undercoating soon, so we'll see how bad it actually is). Would a wirefeed (mig that isn't set up for a bottle) do me okay to weld in new pan quarters? Would it be doable or advisable to do with the body on? Carpet and rear seat is out. The person that would let me use their welder also has a car pit in his garage, so access is not a problem. Cutting the old pan quarters out -- cut off wheels and a cut off tool or die grinder ought to do me right, yeah? Also, how do you guys reccomend I detach the backs of my seat rails from the old metal? Cut around then grind down? Drill out spot welds (Was it even spot welded?)? Would just a wirefeed do me alright for any body welds (with the obvious grinding and all) or is that a bad idea? The car has had a rough life (got it and the engine case was JB-Welded together behind the generator stand!) and the previous 'restoration' is showing its age (rust under the paint, rust where they didn't paint, bondo where it don't belong, trim that should've gotten pulled but wasnt, etc). This car has tons of bondo on it (front to back, you name it!) and I'd like to do it pretty right, but it won't be perfect and all done right in metal ever (so keep that in mind). My goal is to get this car lick and a promise good cosmetically (although take the time and do it as right as time and money allows and do it myself) and spot on mechanically (and I'm getting close). My goal body wise is to have no bondo thicker than 1/4 of an inch anywhere on the car and it still look reasonably straight. As far as noses go (and I'm Jewish, so my nose goes pretty far!), I've sourced one from a donor that was reasonably straight (ridge all the way down, the whole panel was slightly bent, but that will be fixed pretty easy with the hammers and dollies, or even my hands!) -- would it be doable for me to weld it on and it not come out looking worse than the smooth bondo look it's sporting now? Any advice would be greatly appreciated, I'm really doing this on a budget. If I really really really oughtta get a migger for this, the guy probably will go halvesies with me on the 'upgrade' kit. Thanks so so much, this bodywork and rust repair stuff is pretty foreign to me.

-Kevin

Reply to
Kevin Holzer
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I am working on a similar project but I am doing it "body off". I think you can do it "body on" too, though.

A good book to read is: "How to Restore Volkswagen Beetle: Your Step-by Step Illustrated Guide to Body" -- amazon has it. You can probably get your local library to buy it for you. It has lots of pictures and hints. The bugme video on that subject gives you good ideas as well.

The pan is spot welded. Brush the edges with a wire brush to see where they are and go to town with a drill. Just make sure you don't drill through the tunnel lip if you can avoid it to keep as much meat around as possible. Eastwood (eastwoodco.com) has a special bit that is useful -- search for "Spotweld Cutter".

An air chisel is your best friend - it will save you in cursing a lot. (you can get a cheap chisel for around $10 on ebay, assuming you have air or access to it).

A die grinder works fine.

Mine are not welded back in, but from what I've been told a mig with shielding gas is the way to go but suspect that mig flux core works too

-- it will probably take some more grinding. You'll just want just spot weld them, punching holes along the edges of the pan two inches apart and welding in the holes. Seam welding will distort it all and tend to crack, from what I've read.

Remco

Reply to
Remco

I'll check the library today.

Good to know that it was spot welded -- I'll get a hole saw (probably the same thing as the spot weld cutter) from Harbor Freight.

The guy that has the wirefeed also has an air chisel :)

Interesting....I'm thinkikng about butt welding it, from a reccomendation of a friend, but the spot welding idea might be better.

Thanks for the advice and good ideas!

-Kevin

Reply to
Kevin Holzer

It looks like a drill with a point in the center. The actual business end of the drill is made to drill flat holes. This way, minimal damage is done to the bottom layer.

The pan lays on top of a lip that is connected to the tunnel or spline (basically the hump where your stick shift comes out of). Don't cut that lip off. Trim maybe 1.5" away from the tunnel to make sure you don't do damage to that lip. Try to not drill through this lip while drilling out the spot welds. After drilling out the spots, with your air chisel, you can work your way around the edge to get the old pan remnant off. You will find a similar lip along the front of the pan, under your pedal cluster. (also in the rear, but you are leaving that in tact, since you are doing a 1/4 pan, right?)

In the stick figure below looking as you are looking from the front and at a slice of the tunnel/floorpan, X is the tunnel. Y is the new pan. Notice the hole punched in the pan? That's where you place your weld. These holes should be about 2 inches apart along the edge of the pan.

X weld in this hole X | X YY YYX XXXXXX Y YYYYYYYYYYYY

Remco

Reply to
Remco

Well, that stick figure looks like crap. :) Let me know if you need an actual picture to clarify it all.

Reply to
Remco

I'll ask when the time comes, if I need it. That was way more complete and should set me up pretty nice. Now I've just gotta get my brakes working (need calipers, one had a chip by the cylinder!) and I can put it to use! Thanks so much!

-Kevin

Reply to
Kevin Holzer

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