So what was wrong after the adjustment?
Depends upon the condition of the ball joints. Around here they hate to work on ACVWs, and might adjust crapped out joints rather than replace them.
They probably don't know how to do it. I wonder if they messed with tie-rods instead of the offset adjuster.
Sorry to hear it happened. Here it is definitely bad attitude. Their flat-rate manual has nothing for a Bug, they mess up and the mechanic makes a dime on the dollar, and doesn't do it right.
$100 should have taken care of 4-wheel alignment and an oil change on top of that :D
I agree with John, they probably didn't know how. The lower ball joint is what it is, not adjustable. The top ball joint sits in a cone adapter that has an offset hole through it, and a LARGE but thin hex head to turn it from. Need to loosen the BJ first and then fight the adjuster cone. They like to get really stuck over the years and may require BJ removal to knock them loose. A little anti seize on the cone would do good, once it pops out. As you turn the cone, both camber and caster angles will change. You turn it until you find a happy medium between the two. Then adjust toe and re-check camber and caster.
The computer probably won't have a Ghia listed there but you can substitute a STD beetle for it to get the values, IF the computer lists a non-super beetle. (70 or older in the US I believe?)
The rear camber is not adjustable on a swing axle car, but toe is. The rear needs to be adjusted before the front.
Their books probably sis not go back that far.
The last time I took my 1973 beetle in for a computerized alignment, the shops' books did not show how to do it because the car was so old. They ended up just setting the toe-in but charged me for the full computerized alignment. They did a good job though without any gripes I wish I had tried John Muir's method with two yard sticks. I could have set the toe-in myself. It may be harder to set with a Ghia or a super Beetle.
Both the upper and lower Ball Joints on my T3 are adjustable but the Service Manual says adjust the upper and then the lower as a last resort. I,ve set them up with the notch on the adjuster towards the front then adjusted the toe in with a a home made track rod. Seems to work fine with only a faint dive to the left under braking. Apparently some Mexican/Brazilian types are made non adjustable for cost reasons. Dont know why they dont like working on the front ends of ACVW,s. I just replaced all 4 ball joints in an hour or so with nothing more than a 3/8 whit threaded rod bent into a "U" shape to make a puller. If a pro shop cant do the same they should take up basket weaving. ( sorry, any basket weavers out there) John
No criticism intended... T3 ball jts are quite different from T1/Ghia. There is only an eccentric adjuster for the top one to change the camber. The adjuster is often frozen in place, making adjustment very tedious.
And ball joint replacement requires massive hydraulic press equipment.
Speedy Jim
My friend did my last beetle ball joint for me at his work... 14 tons when they popped and the press is behind a safety cage for a reason :)
You can also "weld them out". It involved taking the backing plate out with a die grinder and pushing the ball and stud out, exposing the socket... then weld a continuous bead on the inside of the socket, high amps, and then quickly dip the whole thing in cold water. The rest of the ball joint should drop right out. Youtube videos of this exist, excuse me for being too lazy to go find a link ;)
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