Slow starting 6v

Oh, Oh! You have unleashed the furies of hell with this post.

The starter solenoid (what makes the click) takes a whopper 35 Amps to pull in and close the contacts for the starting motor.

With a 6V system, the wiring and switch can *barely* make that happen if everything is in good condition.

If the Ignition switch contacts are "tired" or crimp connections corroded, or Fastons not tight, or ......... then the solenoid won't quite make it.

Quick test: At the Ignition switch, jumper the Red wire (#30) to the Red wire (#50). If the starter cranks the engine every time, it's a bad switch.

If not that, then you may have to resort to using a voltmeter to track down voltage drop (under load) at each terminal, splice, etc.

The factory-approved "fix" (this is where the furies get unleashed) is a RELAY, better known as a "hard-start" kit.

Speedy Jim

Once again Jim, thanks for your help. I'll try your suggestions.

-tom

Or, what solved it for me was... I had a poor ground strap connection between the body and the transmission housing under the middle of the car... I took the strap off, cleaned and buffed all surfaces, then replaced and tightened it down. It has never given me the click-click behaviour again since I did this. Of course, one must also clean up the neg. battery strap to body connection under the back seat as well to complete the circuit improvement. Clean the battery posts of course too!

I didn't see this mentioned in the above comments, so I felt I should add it, considering that this* was all that was actually wrong on my 45 year old Bug regards starting trouble.

Thanks all good suggestions, yes mine turns 40 next year. pretty awesome to drive a 40+ year old car today in a world of high tech autos.

-tom

My hope is to be running as well when I turn 40.

Way I see it everyone should drive a vehicle 5 or more years older than they are, to give them a goal. "Heck, if this beast can live outdoors and still stay mobile after all this time, surely I can do the same."

;)

hahaha. nice idea. I guess I set a HUGE goal for myself with the '56!!!

Brian

Noooooooo!!!! Not the RELAY!!!!!

Oh, for those hard-start problems. I hear those work great! :-D

You are /such/ a dick. :-)

Seth Graham wrote in news: snipped-for-privacy@sether.fnal.gov:

Well, I started loosing part this year at 39. Just had my Gallbladder removed and the old camera rammed down the throat all while being in a nice state of sleep. Life is getting better now!

Shag wrote in news: snipped-for-privacy@4ax.com:

it has been working VERY WELL in my bug for 10+ years, and it is a 12V!!!! LOL

Whatever you do, do not tell Jan... Especially after a bottle of dark Rum..

J.

Hi,

I know on 6v jeeps we used to just drop in 8v (4 cell) tractor batteries and they did great!

Jan

OK, all seriousness aside. I borrowed a volt meter and I'm going to attempt to tack the slow starting problem down myself. Does anyone know the check voltage procedures?

1. Output of voltage on the battery.
2. Output of voltage on the ignition switch.
3. Output of voltage on the starter.

then from there? I'll start tracing it down. Any info would be greatly appreciated. thanks, I'm learning as I go.

-tom

Follow the diagram. On your car, ALL of the power to up front goes thru the Headlight switch terminals. That's right! There is often loss there.

So, start with the battery, then work your way to the Headlight sw terminals, then the fuseblock (junction- no fuse), then the ignition switch, and finally the starter solenoid.

But, remember you have to do this UNDER LOAD. Which means the key turned to the START position.

If the starter happens to pull in and actually crank while you're doing this, that will upset the readings. You can remove the battery cable at the starter and bolt it to the big Red wire which is also on that stud.

Or, let it crank for every test, but be quick.

Speedy Jim

That's it, NO DESSERT for you Shaggie! ARGH!

Jan

Should he not be motnitoring load, as Amps????

J.