Spark plugs

I know there is a torque spec but I can't remember exactly what it is. Just tight is plenty. Like with your hand on the head of the ratchet. Also, some good anti seize compound is a great idea. Helps lube the threads and makes them easier to get out later. I use some stuff called C5A I think. Comes in a pint jar with a brush. Just coat the threads but don't get it on the electrode.

the Bently manual will tell you 25 ft/lbs.....i don't tighten that much...hand tight then an 1/8 to 1/4 of a turn or so to crush the washer...

New plugs: Turn in until they bottom out, then another 1/2 turn more to take advantage of the crush washer.

Jan

Thanks guy's.

Checked the haynes manual but no specs what so ever. I guess i just have the wrong manual :-) Last time i changed them (about 3 years ago) they where very thight and hard to get out. I hope i didn't damage the threats back then.

Thanks for the (quick) info

Roger

----------------------------------------------- Jim Adney snipped-for-privacy@vwtype3.org Madison, WI 53711 USA

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Lots of answers you've got there. Lots of different beliefs and techniques for lots of different kinds of spark plugs. However, to answer your question........Yes there is a torque spec......

1. Tom Wilson's " How to rebuild your Volkswagon Engine" says: HAND TIGHTEN THEN TORQUE TO 25 FT/LB, OR, HAND TIGHTEN AND ONE-HALF TURN. Highly recommend the 25 ft/lb if the plug washer/seal has been crushed once already.

1. John Miur's "The idiot's guide to ............VW alive. Says 18-25 Ft/lb

2. The original VW shopmanual and Chiltons both say 21-29 ft/lbs.

And all three say to use a little anti-sieze compound on the upper threads. Most high performance people tell you not to do this because of reduced heat transfer from the plug.

There, I did not have to make any of that up.....