temperature on a 1600tl

i have a 1968 vw1600tl and i think is good to install a gauge to know the temperature. I think i can install an oil temperature sender ¿where can i attach the sender? do you have a diagram for easy installation? what's the "normal" temperature?

Regards from spain

Reply to
vw1600tl
Loading thread data ...

The correct temperature for a Spanish VW is approx 10000 degrees on the end of a gas axe...HA, no but seriously... I suggest you de salinate the the 2nd oil ring with a coating of self raising flour, as far as a temp guage goes I would personally insert it in the venturi opening on the left side of the right cooling tower, just below the fifth and sixth frepsh, it should be noted that a re-torquing of the plasmatron centres in the pump stages of the differential should be done at this point by removing the transaxle hub unit and replacing that with a ghatcooler in order to retain the integrity of the gferkl bushes inside the housing of the opposing uni ball bearing giuyt. Bearing in mind that at this point you should be then able to replace any perished friewort o rings whilst your at it.....Hope this helps

Reply to
griplimit

Nothing best to do ..... Thnks in advance... "griplimit" escribió en el mensaje news: snipped-for-privacy@news.comindico.com.au...

Reply to
vw1600tl

VDO has temperature gauges.

formatting link
A sender is available which screws into the oil sump plate or in place of the pressure relief valve.

Wiring is quite simple: (This is from a French VW club)

formatting link
Oil temperature on a Beetle varies greatly, depending mostly on highway speed and on ambient temperature. The usual maximum is approximately 100-110 C.

If you can not find a supplier of gauges in Spain,

formatting link
supply from the US. Speedy Jim
formatting link

Reply to
Speedy Jim

Speedy Jim has the right answers for you but I will add a little to say you are right to monitor your engine oil temp. I have one in all of mine and always will. My Puma owners manual says the temp should be under 105 Cel. Dennis

href="

formatting link
">Den's1977 Puma

Reply to
Dennis Wik

Ok, i´ll try to find the oil sump plate or the pressure relief valve¡¡¡ I don´t know the meaning in spanish and were is located on a type3. Also i saw that sender are different depending on the screw size Can i do it myself??

"Speedy Jim" escribió en el mensaje news: snipped-for-privacy@uni-berl>

Reply to
vw1600tl

formatting link
all the engine parts.Click on "07 - Oil Pump, Dual Oil Pump, Oil Strainer"#11 is the oil sump plate.#16 is drain plug (not on later engines) There is not a picture of the relief valve but it is on bottom of the engine.

This article has some actual measurements of oil temperature:

formatting link
well as cylinder head temp. More gauges here:
formatting link
And a *very* complete list of VW sites in bookmark form:
formatting link
Speedy Jim
formatting link

Reply to
Speedy Jim

sorry.... i think i was doing something wrong.¡¡¡ my car is a type3 the drain plug is not that (i think). I watch at the pictures and is not as the mine

Regards

"Speedy Jim" escribió en el mensaje news: snipped-for-privacy@uni-berl>

Reply to
vw1600tl

Type 3 1600 uses the same engine case with the same sump plate pictured. Yours may not have the plug however as later sump plates discontinued the plug. A machine shop can easily tap the plate for whatever sender you purchase.

Speedy Jim

formatting link

Reply to
Speedy Jim

Hey now, that's pretty handy, S-Jim! I have a thermal probe at the end of the Wonderbus's dipstick (Mexi 1600 DP). With air preheating stove piped up to the oil bath air cleaner, SVDA set to 42 degrees advance @

3700 rpm, and blowing down Interstate 5/805 freeways from San Diego's North County to darn near the Mexican border, over considerable hill and dale, I have found that if I keep the ground speed at 55mph (a speed that consternates the local drivers with its snail-like progress) the temp in the sump peaks at 230F on the grades and hovers around 220F on the average. This with air temps in the mid 70's. If the ambient temp goes up 20 or 30 degrees I reckon I better use another vehicle.

I have been wondering if my temps are unusually high, but Ron van Ness's measurements look pretty similar to mine.

He added an additional oil cooler. This won't help the heads much, I reckon, as they are not receiving oil for cooling purposes. But he felt that it would help the oil from temperature-induced breakdown. Bob Hoover wrote a sermonette about lubes a few years ago, and cautioned against using multigrade oils as they break down around 350F (head temp near exhaust valves) leaving your engine with the low end of the grade, i.e., your 10W40 turns into straight 10W or something similar.

However, I read that synthetics claim to have a higher breakdown temp than dino oils. Redline makes a big hoop-de-do about that. To Bob Hoover, paying Good Money for expensive $ynthetic oil that just needs to be changed out every few thousand miles is a waste. But I reckon that anything that raises the breakdown threshold is a Good Thing, All Other Things Being Equal (he said, knowing full well that all other things are /never/ equal).

I dunno if there are suitable single-grade synthetics on the market with higher breakdown temp than my current 30W Ancient Seabed oil.

Anyone in the Southwest have any Words O' Wisdom about all this?

Reply to
Mike Rocket J. Squirrel Elliot

I just finished a cross-country saga with my stock 1973 Type4 bus. Whilst on the west coast, Portland Oregon was having record heat of

104*. My travels through Las Vegas to Baker CA had ambient afternoon temperatures of 123* and I decided to do some engine temperature tests by cruising at 70 mph for a couple of hours then shutting off abruptly at rest stops or doing cool-down idling and measuring engine temps. The stock Type 4 engine is not flustered in the slightest by desert heat. Average oil temperatures as measured at the taco plate, sump plate, and oil filter canister were around 250-260* F measured with a laser thermometer.. Exhaust manifold temperatures were around 750-900* at the bend of the j-tubes into the exchangers. Valve covers averaged between 260-300*. But what was really interesting to me was how beautifully the engine separated the heat below from the engine compartment above. The fan housing was 124* at an ambient outside of 120*, the carbs were 97* which I guess was latent heat extraction from the atomization of fuel. If the engine was shut off abruptly, exhaust manifolds maintained upper 600s for several minutes, heat soak rocketed the engine compartment temps upwards, enough to give me hard starts due to fuel percolation in the carbs and the dipstick became almost-but-not-quite too hot to touch. If the engine was allowed to idle for three minutes, the exhaust pipes cooled down pretty quickly to low 600s and even low 500s before shut-off. After ten minutes, engine start showed oil at 240 that then cooled to 230s. Oil temperatures appeared to be way hotter than what the conventional wisdom prefers. I was curious to know if the heat blowing off the left exhaust pipes was broiling the oil filter canister, any opinions? However, the oil never got the burnt acrid smell, the head surfaces inside the rocker boxes maintained a light yellowish color, the oil drained nice and caramel after 3,000 miles, and none of my valve adjustments closed up in the slightest. I used Castrol 20-50w dino oil, and maintained factory 10*ATDC timing. The only really critical aspect to driving in exceptional heat was to maintain 3,800 rpm with a very clean well-maintained engine with every seal in place. The long 16 mile hill pull outside of Baker to Needles CA I pulled in 3rd gear at 3,800 rpm, because 4th would have dropped my cooling fan speed down too low. What a great engine. . . . with original 450,000+ mile 1700 heads. Colin
Reply to
Colin

MotorsForum website is not affiliated with any of the manufacturers or service providers discussed here. All logos and trade names are the property of their respective owners.