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Thermostat Q's

Ok you guys have finally talked me into using the thermo and flaps, after 20 years of not having them at all,( I also drank the Koolaid about the svda,and that worked out well) this car i bought has them still installed, so i get the fan shroud back on and etc but no matter how low i get the "bellows" mounted they arent closing the flaps all the way, the rod moves freely without the thermo screwed to it, I put marks on the fan shroud and the connecting rod in front (of car) so i could tell if it opens and closes all the way and at dead cold it only closes the flaps about half way. is it procedure to bend the rod more to get them to close or is that enough to insure proper heat distribution for warmup? I still have the eng here in garage, so i can adjust anything, but I wanna take her for a drive! so any help is appreciated!!!

Reply to
Cletus
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you can bend the arm on the lead flap that the rod connects to.... but when you get in to that the single most important thing to make sure of is, when the thermostat is at the top of the bracket(fully extended) the flaps are completely open....

Reply to
Joey Tribiani

You beat me to it Joey :) Yea, fully open when needed is more important than fully closed when cold.

Jan

Reply to
Jan

I've never had a functioning thermostat on my 78 type2. Hard to find a working type4 thermo. Pick it up if you run across one. Anyhow, I ended up going with a type1 thermostat which is only about 20 degrees difference. Engine warms up in about 4 minutes now. Much happier. The past few month, I was barely seeing my oil temps get over 100.

Peace, CaliVW78

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Reply to
calivw78

Why did you need higher oil temps?

Reply to
Dennis

Assuming he is in the US and is talking about 100 degrees Fahrenheit...

The engine needs to run at it's proper operating temperature, for all of the metal parts to reach their designed thermal expansion. An engine that is running too cool, is running under incorrect tolerances, and wears out much faster, wastes fuel, and suffers from poor performance. You also run a high risk of seeing more severe engine damage as a direct result of incorrect cooling, be it too hot or too cool, or uneven cooling. For example, if the head studs run too cool, and the heads reach their normal temperature, the stud "torque" increases way beyond specification, and the studs pull the threads out of the case. The 10mm studs were especially prone to pulling out, since they didn't stretch enough or fast enough when the engine warmed up.

In addition, the engine case gets a lot of moisture condensation inside, and it can only be gotten rid of by heating the oil enough to evaporate the water in it. Water in oil is not good. It causes foaming and lack of lubrication to critical parts, and rust.

Also, the engine needs to reach it's normal operating temperature in a certain amount of time, certain parts in certain sequence, for everything to thermally expand in a controlled manner.

Now, if the poster CaliVW78 meant 100 deg Celcius, he does not need any more heat. :)

Jan

Reply to
Jan

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