Too Much Oil Pressure

I just built an 1835.

92 mm cylinders, with stock 69 mm crank, with 110 cam. I also put a full flow oil system with schadek, 30 mm hd pump with external cooler, and filter. I am using Fram HP1 oil filter as per schadek's recommendations. I am using the stock oil pressure bypass valves and springs, that came with the dual relief case. I did drill and tap the case, so oil exits at pump cover, runs to filter, up through cooler, and then back into block in the upper left corner of block. For some reason I keep blowing the seal on my filter. As near as I can tell it is running 45 to 55 psi, and will surge to 65, and up to 80 at 5000 rpms. I am running 20w 50 oil. The pressure will drop to 20 psi at idle. Is there a way to adjust the bypass valves down, so that the system does not build so much pressure? If engine is cold, I can blow seal with by reving the engine once, to 1400 to 2000 rpms.
Reply to
toddgwil
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You have a number of things stacked up against you. The pump is oversized. A 26 Shadek puts out a lot as it is. A 30 is usually used on tired engines with oil pressure problems as a band-aid.

Try a 10W30 oil. Yes, it's the not the "trendy" choice but it will flow through the cooler. Oil flow is critical on these engines, even more so than oil pressure. Leave the sludge for the transaxle.

What kind of fittings and what size hose? For example, 3/8" (#6) hose and barbed fittings are a horribly restrictive. Lots of cheap kits come with these. Find the smallest fitting I/D and measure it accurately. That's what this massive pump is trying to push the oil through. Consider #10 teflon-lined stainless with crimped #10 ends and steel adapters. It's flexible, handles high heat, and will never come apart or leak. Not cheap, but shop around. Lots of hydraulic supply shops make up these lines and some might cut you a deal. I even reamed out the inside of the steel adapters with a 7/16" drill and even at that, the passageway is still 1/8" smaller than the internal passages in a late DP case. Think about it!

Lastly, check out the oil relief/regulator in the case. The one towards the rear of the car. Polish the piston with crocus until it shines. Jam a wood dowel into the end and carefully check that it slides all the way up the bore without any hanging up. When the case gets tapped for full-flow, sometimes the cut threads leave a sharp edge or burr that can hang up the piston. Polish it out if you have to. Compare the spring(s) with known samples to make sure you didn't get a "booster" kit spring. You can't adjust these other than use the correct parts.

To blow the seal out on an HP1 means you've got pressure well into the hundreds.

Reply to
Raymond Lowe

The only thing I can add is check the relief spring and piston towards the front of the car. If it has the long piston with a section turned down, swap it out for a shorter stock one. I had the same problem with my engine and a stock sized pump after a rebuild on a similar but somewhat milder engine (1690cc, Engle 100 cam and full flow case.)

Tony

Reply to
Anthony W

Could be bad oil filter adapter, if it's bugpack or empi (not sure which one) it will not seat properly and when everything is nice and cool blow the seal out. Check whether mating surface on the adapter is flat. cb adapter is good.

Ant> Raym> > Lastly, check out the oil relief/regulator in the case. The one

Reply to
anton

before you go through all the other things spoken of, get a good filter....the fram hp1 has had many many folks report blowing the seal out...your pressure isn't excessive.....

(just for info, the oil pressure relief/regulator piston and spring is the front(front is front) piston in a dual relief case)

Reply to
Joey Tribiani

30mm pump is the main culprit. Nothing in the engine configuration warranting one. 20W50 oil. YES HE HAS TOO MUCH PRESSURE, that pump is way overkill and will actually make the engine overheat. (Oil is bypassing the cooler because the engine thinks it's cold)

Switch to an aluminum bodied 26mm Schadek pump and sell that 30mm one or use as paperweight.

Break the engine in with 10W30 or 10W40, use 20W50 only in very high temperatures and worn engines.

You do not need ANY more oil pressure than (good condition) stock pressure, anything above that is just going to cause more problems than what it might fix.

Jan

Reply to
Jan

The ford motorcraft equivalent of the PH8A always worked well for me when I ran an external filter. Don't recall the part number off the top of my head unfortunately. I took the center threaded part of the filter adapter to autozone and start checking filters to find one that would thread on and matched the seal diameter of the fram filter.

Chris

Reply to
halatos

i run a purolater... the number is 3001

Reply to
Joey Tribiani

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