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vw type I , WATER in GAS,slight debris/can't cruize

Hi , any help/experience you could give me would be great! 1600 D.P..Car ran great for months,then all the sudden very erratic .Idles mostly okay ,get on gas stumble sometimes, stall sometimes , sometimes can rev it (clear it out) sometimes not, dies , sometimes start , sometimes not etc. can only make it about 1/2 mile and limp back home , sometimes pushing it the last 100' , sometimes fire her up to 3500 RPM clear it out and good for another 100-500'.......CAR fuel tank is all the way up front.. out of tank .. rubber fuel line into high quality glass microfilter..into facet electric fuel pump...into factory steel line down into tunnel . Out of frame/motor horn back into rubber fuel line into another glass microfilter..into a Purolator fuel pressure regulator (set at 1.5lbs Kadrons per MR.Kadron)then into bass 'T' going to eack carb 'Solex Kadrons' stock.........For the 1st time I saw WATER in both filters ( I've seen some debris when the car was runnung 'off' cleaned them and good to go )WATER this time..I tried the last couple of nights to clean out the filters and lines helped for a bit..then same thing..yup more water . Today I TOTALLY cleaned/flushed everything but the carbs...seemed better but nope she is running the same , however no water in the filters (clean). I am going to pull the carbs and take them apart , blow them out look for water etc. Has anyone ever run into this before ? Can water be hanging up or some debris get past all those filters ? I've read Posts and know about all the other stuff it could be but got water and the problems started . The only thing it can be is the carbs now . No air leaks and everything is new ,so I'm not suspecting that(for now) . Water/Debris in Carbs ? PPLease Help . Thank-You for your Time , Robert

Reply to
VonFultz
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The stock fuel pump for a single carb puts out from 3 to 5 psi. You have dual carbs. Raise the pressure up to 5 psi.

Get a yellow bottle of HEET water remover and add it to the gas tank and top it off with 91 octane US octane. Always use 91 octance US. It is cheap insurance against having a ping. Do not get gas at Conoco. They have water in their gas at the Conoco stations where I live or at least in the 87 octane regular.

Reply to
Sleepy Joe

Update , removed carbs , had some water in them and some build up on bottoms of bowls , went ahead and rebuilt them . Hooked it all back up . SAME SYMPTONS ( car is running erratically , stalling etc.) . Now Off to the electrical system inspection . Any pointers on what to check first would be with electrical would be helpful . I will start on that tommorrow evening . Thanks , Robert

Reply to
VonFultz

The filters won't stop water. You have to figure out where the water is getting into the system and stop it at the source.

Have you emptied out the tank? (Is this some kind of aftermarket tank? Does it have a well sealed cap and a vent that is somewhere rain/splash can't get in?)

Do you buy gas from a good source? It's illegal in most states to store gas in glass containers, but it is sometimes useful to pour it in glass temporarily just to see what settles out. Water is heavier than gas, so it will settle to the bottom (bottom of the tank, bottom of the line, bottom of the float bown.)

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----------------------------------------------- Jim Adney snipped-for-privacy@vwtype3.org Madison, WI 53711 USA

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Reply to
Jim Adney

Fraser Nash kit car welded square aluminum tank . only the outlet on the bottom , fuel sender mount on top and a screw on cap on top . water may have gotten in the fuel sender mount during the last hurricane as I've seen gas spill out of it when it was to full. It has'nt been a problem so I left it until I can research how a tank is supposed to vent ( whoever put the tank in I think set it up wrong) . As it is now there is no vent if I fix everything sealed up tight , the cap is a threaded cast pipe cap, the tank can't vent ( and I'm afraid of condensation then).Just need to make sure no water hits the top of the tank for now. Anyways the entire fuel systen is flushed new 92 octane (always run92)with water remover in it and I just rebuilt the carbs today and got some water and build up out But the car is doing the same thing stalling . moving to electrical now.will check upping fuel pressure as suggested in a reply but she ran great for months at 1.5lbs when I put her to 2.5lbs. she starts popping , will try to up it and adjust carbs down though .

Reply to
VonFultz

Hi Robert,

If you have had water in your gas tank, then this will explain its presence and reappearance following cleaning the fuel line. I don't know where you live so I'll just suggest that the gas station may have water in their tanks, leakage, condensation after humid weather, all sorts, but now it will have crystalised in your carb jets and internal pipes. You will pull down the carbs and find white crystals, either a lot or just a bit either way it does you in. The problem being that gas can be compressed into finer molecules (atomization) than H20. To help break down the H20 into an easier atomized substance, add isopropyl alcohol to your gas tank. (experiment with quantities) if you have any iso left, you can use to make Hashish oil, but I won't tell you here how to make it, but this will explain why it may be hard to buy at your corner hardware or drug store.

The next thing to check is your ignition coil, some fail when they get hot. The typical VW position is to invert the coil on the fan housing. If the coil is not filled with oil to the top during the manufacturing process, then the corner edge of the internal copper winding will be out of the oil bath, and over time will heat up and fail, try the new coil first, as it is a lot easier that pulling down the carbs...

CB.

Reply to
coldbelow

I'll find that a;cohol and keep some in my tank at all times.My ignition switch was faulty and shorted , I replaced it. My points wire was fried so I changed points and condenser . I ohm'ed my coil from the 'center big distributor wire to the negative then the positive studs and got 5,000 ohm's (coil has about 400 miles on it)which is supposed to be good ,however I think I will buy a new coil tommorrow (don't trust it with that short that happened) . Something I'm not sure of however when I turn the ignition on I got power on the positive side of the coil and the negative side (the wires are right). I am not sure if this is correct, I don't think it is...getting power at the negative stud on coil . Is this correct ? Hey Thank-You all for your help so far it's been a big help , there have been multiple things going wrong at the same time . Still don't have her running but I'm getting close . Thanks Again . Atlanta,GA. , Robert

Reply to
VonFultz

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