240s - What to Get, What to Avoid

I've seen info posted either here or elsewhere about which 240s (specifically wagons) are desireable and which aren't, and why. A friend is hoping to buy a 240 wagon sometime soon, and I'd like to be able to provide her with those guidelines. Does anyone know where I can find them? Or would folks be willing to post their recommendations here so I can pass them on to her?

Thanks much, Patricia

Reply to
Patricia Butler
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*All* are desirable and good cars, IMHO. However:
  • 1980-1987 240s have wiring harness problems that may cost about 0 to fix. Check for crumbling insulation on wires under the hood.
  • Some 1990s cars have ABS and an airbag. This can be good or bad, depending on what you're looking for.
  • 1993s have a lockup torque converted on the auto gearbox for more efficiency
  • Cars up to 1986 were offered with a 4-speed manual (with or without electric overdrive). Later cars were 5-speeds (the 5-speed boxes are considered weaker, but mine has lasted 195k so far).
  • Cars after 1986 have a smaller steering wheel making for more knee room inside.
  • Cars after 1986 have plastic headlights that get yellow over time. About 0-150 per side to change
  • A turbo was only offered from (IIRC) 1980 to 1985.
  • Cars made after 1983 or so have better (electronic rather than mechanical) fuel injection. However, turbos always had the mechanical system.
  • Cars later than 1987 or so seem to rust less due to better paint/body treatment.
  • 240s after 1991 or so get a better AC system with an electric fan and R134a coolant
  • 1993s and some turbo models got power mirrors

Takes your choice and gets yer pick, Andrew

Reply to
Andrew Szafran

Last post of the day....I have to get over to the dealer. As far as I'm concerned, there's nothing to really be concerned over with a 200 series of any model, with the possible exception of the underhood wiring. These cars were pretty much bullet-proof. Since it sounds like your friend will probably be keeping the car for a while, I'd search out the latest model that she can find, with the lowest mileage and the most cosmetically perfect. Check all of the window switches. On the 200's they can go kind of suddenly, like mine did last year. Right off the top, I can't remember any real glaring faults in these cars, like on the new Volvos. I have an old Volvo 200 that I bought new ('84) and as far as I'm concerned, they can bury me in that car. I've never had a problem with it. Oh, yes, the chime for the key in the ignition has stopped working unless you push the button on the door jamb in and out. Great brakes, great steering, solid and a really nice road car. The A.C. isn't anything to write home about but it's on a par with the Jaguar that I used to own about ten years ago. Something tells me that the A.C. was improved toward the end of the 200 series run. If she gets a four cylinder engine, if a timing belt snaps, it won't cost you $6,000. for an new engine. There are many 200 series Nuts in this group. They'll give you more info.

Patricia Butler wrote:

Reply to
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They changed so little over the years that it's not so cut and dry. Personally I'd look for the newest one I could find in the nicest condition available. Cosmetic facelifts occurred in '81 and '86, '84 is the last year of the Turbo, '89 is when the engine wiring harness was updated so the insulation doesn't rot out. '90 got the new style windows and trim on the tailgate and windshield, and at some point around then rear seat headrests were added. ABS became available around '90, and the dashboard was changed very slightly around that time as well. From '90 on to '93 when the 240 was discontinued the cars are virtually identical in every way.

Reply to
James Sweet

This is all really great, everyone. I'm printing it all out to give to her. THANKS!!!!

Reply to
Patricia Butler

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