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760 starting problem

Well I spoke too soon in praising this car (1988 760GLE) as "hassle free".

Someone else posted this problem here but I can't find any responses so I'll post it too.

It has happenend a few times that when I turn the key in the ignition I hear a single but the engine won't turn over or anything. All the dummy lights come on and when I turn the key from KP II to KP III the Seatbelt warning light goes off and the OD up arrow comes on while I'm holding the key in that position and then return to normal when I release. I suspected the sensor that detemines the car is not in gear (i.e. in P or N) but shifting from P to N and all around had no effect. Checked all the fuses and the connections to the battery, all seemed fine.

After a few tries it would finally catch and turn over and start just fine as though there was never a problem. It's happened about 6 times, each time a few weeks apart and each time getting going after a few minutes and something else was tried (nothing has worked more than once). For example:

  1. Started when I turned the key and fiddled with the window switches.

  1. Started when I turned the key and turned the steering wheel.

  2. Started when I pulled the key halfway out (my ignition doesn't lock in the key).

  1. Started when I rapidly turned the key from KP I to KP III in one swift motion.

  2. Started when I rapidly turned the key from KP II to KP III and back a dozen times as fast as I could.

  1. The last time (today) I connected my voltmeter across the battery terminals to ensure the battery was charged (it showed 12.5v) and when I set it so I could see it from inside the car and went to check how the voltage dropped when I turned the key, the damned thing started. This was the last time so I haven't tried it again... yet.

So the list of things I'll try is getting longer but none seems to be the fix. This afternoon I was stranded for 20 minutes, not sure if it would start at all.

Every time it was when the car was hot and I just ran into a store or something and came out. Could it be temperature related? Is there some power threshold below which the battery can't turn the starter even once?

Ignition switch? Starter motor? Both? Neither?

Ideas?

Thanks, blurp

Reply to
blurp
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Solenoid click when turning the ignition key to crank over the engine sounds a bit like a dicky cell on your battery. Certainly this may be the easiest place to start especially if the battery has been on the car for a few years.

Reply to
Andy Coles

I've heard of ignition switches, starter motors and batteries all failing in this manner.

Reply to
Mike F

On Wed, 03 Aug 2005 10:03:49 -0400, the illustrious Mike F favored us with the following prose:

I was able to find some reference to this problem on BrickBoard which suggested lightly tapping the starter when this no-start condition occurs. If it starts then you've found the problem, if not then you've eliminated a suspect. I just have to find the starter in there.

Unfortunately I don't know exactly how to precipitate the no-start condition so I'll have to be prepared to try it when it happens.

I don't know if there's any way to test the ignition switch but nothing else seems to be failing and all other electrical systems work great even when the car won't start. When it does finally start it starts strong so if the battery is the problem I don't know how it could be diagnosed (by myself or the garage).

Any ideas how to test the ignition switch?

Thanks, blurp

Reply to
blurp

Try making sure that the battery connectors are clean and tight. A swift tap on top of them with a large screwdriver handle (plastic) may well make the difference between starting and not starting.

All the best, Peter.

700/900/90 Register Keeper, Volvo Owners Club (UK).
Reply to
Peter K L Milnes

Just because tapping the starter doesn't (temporarily) fix the problem it doesn't eliminate it as a suspect. However if the tapping does fix the problem, then you've most likely found it. I'm not sure where it is on the V6, but the 4 cylinder cars have a remote starter wire high on the firewall near the center. Connect a test light between that and ground. When the starter is engaged the test light will light. Note what happens next time the problem occurs.

Reply to
Mike F

On Thu, 04 Aug 2005 08:29:43 -0400, the illustrious Mike F favored us with the following prose:

Will do! I just picked up a test light on the weekend.

Thanks for the tips. blurp

Reply to
blurp

I have had the "click-no-start" happen again and can add an observation or two to the list of "knowns".

  1. it seems to occur only when the car has been shut off for a short time (more than 2 minutes, less than 10).

  1. it seems to occur when ANY electrical-drawing device is left on in the car. Last night it wouldn't start after the hazards had been on for 2 minutes. Sometimes if the radio is left on (even with the key out and the radio not playing, just the switch in the ON position).

I've had dead battery situations in the past and this battery is FOR SURE not dead. A dead battery stays dead and letting it sit won't give you a charge. When the car does start it does so with all the power and force of a car with a brand new battery.

So is there some IC component that won't engage the starter until the charge is perfect or something? It's really looking more like a battery/electrical problem than a starter motor problem. Especially because the problem ONLY occurs during short stops and NEVER happens after the car has been sitting for 30 minutes or more.

So often the feeling with some of these problems is that some part of the car is saying "Well there's SOME power but not as much as I want so I won't even try".

If you think this IS the battery, is there a specific test that can be preformed by the shop or do they just test if it holds a charge?

Thanks all, blurp

Reply to
blurp

Hi Blurp

I dont know whether it is your battery or not however the good news is that YES a tyre/battery depot or garage (certainly Volvo) should have a battery tester which not only reads your volts but does it under a discharge as if you are turning over the starter motor. May be worth a trip.

Your battery may not be dead but it only takes one cell to be dicky and this may manifest itself under a discharge. For sure it is not much use just putting a volt meter between the two terminals.

Best of luck

Reply to
Andy Coles

A good battery/repair shop may even have a loaner battery to lend you to see if it eliminates the problem.

"Andy Coles" wrote:

__ __ Randy & \ \/ /alerie's \__/olvos '90 245 Estate - '93 965 Estate "Shelby" & "Kate"

Reply to
Randy G.

On Thu, 11 Aug 2005 12:43:17 -0700, the illustrious "Randy G." favored us with the following prose:

Then I guess I'll be taking it into the CanTire tomorrow since it's their battery.

Thanks for the input! Blurp

Reply to
blurp

I've had a few batteries fail in that way... apparently broken connections inside the battery. As more current is drawn through it the connections weld and everything is okay. That is opposite the way bad battery cable connections behave, where the current increases the oxidation and makes it worse.

A whack on the battery posts with a hammer (like cracking a walnut) often gets intermittent batteries working long enough to get the car to a place the battery can be replaced.

Mike

Reply to
Michael Pardee

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