Compartmetn blower fan only has three speeds (fot four)

I'd hazard a guess at the resistor pack that slows the fans down, if the motor is spinning its not the motor (they either spin, or don't spin)... and switches are pretty damn reliable components, but resistor packs (to slow the motor down by reducing current) get hot, heat creates problems.

Is there an on-line manual page that shows the part number and how to replace it?

I have this horrible feeling that you have to pull the motor to change the part (like the last two plugs in the V-8 Chevy Monza of days gone by -- owned the 6 but co-worker had the V-8 and decided that unless the plugs totally blew, he wasn't about to change them....)

Thanks in advance!

I agree with Rob...*most* likely the reistor pack.... same symptoms occurred in my 1993 850 GLT...and cured by replacing this little slab of resistors (can't just do one...). I'd suggest, however, that you get it checked by someone with a multi-tester BEFORE buyoing the $CDN 80.00 part, as the second time it happened (at about 235,000km!), it was a (cheaper) relay under the hood that had gone bad.......so I've got a *never* installed resistor pack here I'd be glad to sell cheaply IF this is the fix you need.... ;-)

Kevin

Thanks! I'll check the Chilton to see what can be done on my part to test which is the dead party. A bum relay can give the same effect? I thought that relay's either failed fuly open or closed, or am I falling victim to cross-technology terminology (same term means completely different things, depending upon what's being talked about. (EG, "bridge" as a structural engineer versus dentistry is a classic example.)

I'll certainly keep you in mind if I do need the part. BTW, where are you located? I'm Aurora, Ontario.

I don't know how to do it, nor do I have an online manual.

You seriously had to pull the motor? Was there a special tool the dealer had to change the plugs?

IIRC, it was necessary to unbolt the engine mounts and jack the engine up a few inches--a _really_ poor design. There wasn't enough clearance to get a wrench onto the plugs otherwise.

Might be part of the reason Monzas are virtually never seen these days (besides being rust prone).

The plugs on my 145, on the other hand, are a breeze to change.

Gary

Outside foggy Halifax.....LOL

As I had it essplained to me..... the first three fan speeds use lesser resistances in a stepped-wise fashion to increase the fan speed...on the

850, the fourth speed is "straight through"...i.e.- no resistor in the circuit. Here's the irony....you've got to replace the pack 'o resistors, even though the broken speed doesn't *use* one... you can thank modular electronic parts for that one!

As for ease of replacement...my local (ex-Volvo dealer) mechanic did it in about 20 mins...I could be mistaken, but I thought this bit resides in the centre console....?

Second time 'round for me, as I said, was some relay....about the same cost for the part, and I *think* it's located on the side of the actual blower motor housing...but again, don't quote me.

My (new) part is Volvo # 9137937 "Series Resista" in case ...

Best of Luck! How may km on your 850? A/C crapped out too?

K.

I don't know how similar the system is to a 740, but, on the 740, the resistor pack is behind the glovebox fitted by two small screws into the intake plenum of the heater, so that loads of cold and often damp air is drawn over the coils, hopefully cooling them.

TTFN, Ken

If your 145 had A/C, you'd need to unbolt the A/C compressor to get at the first plug!

I remember spending several hours getting the plugs out of a Cadillac Seville - the one with the funny trunk from the late '70s or early '80s. There were various belt driven accessories blocking access to the front plugs. And of course there's plenty of transverse mounted V6s where the rear plugs are all hard to get at.

Fortunately, I had the six-cylinder -- no problem chanignplugs, but co-worker Bob had the 8-cylinder version. To get the wanna-go-really-fast market, they shoe-horned an eight into the compartment.

Bob never changed the last two plugs, but did ahve to change the back end as he blew it pulling away from a red light. Case of big engine, little differential....

Quick update.

I got to the garage to swap out the old resistor block for the new one.

After an hour of digging out the knee panel, rummaging around and dragging out the old block, then swapping in the new one, finding that nothing had changed, then going over the whole fan controls from the fuse panel back to the fan iself with the continuity tester, I was showing the problem -- the selenoid/switch block that changes the resistor getting the voltage (and thus controlling the fan speed) had a small melt-swelling on the bottom.

Opening it up and checking with the tester revealed that the selenoid had cooked itself and had shorted out the last contact that was speed 4.

Got to go back to the garage (kudos to Suter's Garage in Aurora!) on Tueday and have a very expensive part installed ($36.20Cdn).

Will also have them check to see if I have a dye leak from the A/C and give me a quote on top-up versus repairs.

Hope everyone's weekend goes better than mine started off.

I have a similar problem on our'89 240 wagon.

1) Where is the selenoid/switch block which had a partial meltdown? 2) I was not able to find your earlier post(s) on this - I'd be interested in the information there. Please repost or forward if possible. Thanks. ++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++ To send email, remove all < > and [ ] and the junk ~ between: [brucepick1] < a~t > [comcast.net]

Byrocat wrote: