OBD1..can't get codes!

'94 850

I cannot pull codes from module 'B' sockets 1 and 6...No codes display, not even 1-1-1. All other sockets will pull codes ( fortunately 1-1-1, mostly)

A quick check of the wiring around the module, and checks for corrosion inside the socket did not reveal anything...

Any ideas? Ron/Champ 6

1963 8E5 Champ (Champ 6) 1962 Lark Daytona Convertible (Boomerang) 1992 VW Passat (Taxi) 1995 VW Passat (Vanilla..yuk)
Reply to
Ron /Champ 6
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If you haven't already, you could try the suggestions at

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There's a paragraph there that reads:

"Can't Obtain an OBD Code? [Query] I tried obtaining a fuel injection diagnostic code and can't even get 1-1-1. [Response: Chris Herbst] I have run into a LOT of Volvo products with bad diagnostic readout units, usually caused by corrosion. While it is possible that there is no signal TO the diagnostic unit, it is just as likely that either the connection in the terminal, or the connection TO the unit from the EFI computer, is bad. You should try cleaning those connections, and if necessary you can jiggle the connections until you DO get proper readings. I've never had it where I wasn't able to at least read codes and reset the computer, although sometimes it was when I was squeezing the connections into the diagnostic readout unit, or jiggling them around. While your problem could be the ECU, more likely it is corrosion or a bad connection."

It's the 700/900 FAQ, but I imagine it applies equally well to the

850's.
Reply to
Spiggy Topes

Hmmmm. I didn't see any corrosion, maybe I'll get some contact cleaner out and spray it anyway.

Thanks!

Ron/Champ 6

1963 8E5 Champ (Champ 6) 1962 Lark Daytona Convertible (Boomerang) 1992 VW Passat (Taxi) 1995 VW Passat (Vanilla..yuk)
Reply to
Ron /Champ 6

I assume you have both electronic climate control (B1) and a memory seat (B6)? And are they working correctly? There's only one wire from each control unit to the connector, if they're working correctly, check that wire. If they're not, then the only times I've ever seen faults accompanied by dead diagnostics, the control units have been bad.

Reply to
Mike F

I cleaned both the sockets and the jumper, used a small screwdriver to lightly scrape the socket contacts and cleaned again...I still cannot pull codes on B1 (climate control) and B6 ( power seast...I really don't care about this one, still....)

Furthermore, after correcting a few things I reset codes on everything except B2 (cruise control) It shows a code, but I cannot get it to reset. What does this mean?

Thanks again!

Ron

Ron/Champ 6

1963 8E5 Champ (Champ 6) 1962 Lark Daytona Convertible (Boomerang) 1992 VW Passat (Taxi) 1995 VW Passat (Vanilla..yuk)
Reply to
Ron /Champ 6

I do have the memory seat. It has been recovered at some time, and I do not know if it is original to the car. Two of the memories work, one does not. The seat back angle motor runs, but the back does not move.

What is the difference in the electronic climate control and the 'regular' one?

I just bought the car last week, and am slowly learning it.

Thanks for everyone's help!

1963 8E5 Champ (Champ 6) 1962 Lark Daytona Convertible (Boomerang) 1992 VW Passat (Taxi) 1995 VW Passat (Vanilla..yuk)
Reply to
Ron /Champ 6

On B2 (cruise control) you should always get a speed signal code 1-2-2 unless you've driven the car over 35 km/hr since it's been turned on. Drive the car, then check for codes without turning it off.

Reply to
Mike F

Electronic Climate Control has two graduated temperature wheels and "Auto" settings.

For some reason the outer part of the drive cable in the seatback stretches, and the inner part no longer engages the mechanism properly.

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can replace the hog rings with plastic zip ties.I just shorten the cable that's there, it's less work and costs less. Remove the end from the motor. I pull the inner part out of the cablenow, and set it on some clean plastic (it's greasy), although I'm notsure this is necessary. Then heat up the metal end with a heat gun,pulling lightly on it with some needle nose pliers. When it's hotenough the plastic will lose it's grip and it will slide off. Trim 1/4"off the plastic outer cable, reheat the end and slide it back on. Slidethe inner back in, make sure it engages the mechanism at the bottom,reinsert into motor etc.

Reply to
Mike F

Ah HA! The Haynes manual didn't tell me that! I do indeed have a 1-2-2 code only.

Thnaks!

Reply to
ron dame

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