"strut inserts"? How hard to do myself?

My mechanic tells me I have worn strut inserts in the front end of my '92 240. I get some clanking going over a washboard or speed bump at slow speeds. He quoted me $400 for both inserts.

Is this something a guy with decent skills and tools could do himself?

-jeff

Reply to
Handywired
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That was including parts? What parts? I was charged $75 AU by my local Volvo shop to replace the springs and inserts. My parts.

Use Google. Plenty of stuff is availabe about this. You MAY need a rattle gun and you will need a tool for the nut holding the insert in. You can make one like I did. If the labor isn't much then I would just pay and let them do it.

AJS

Reply to
AJS

If that is the total for the job, and your mechanic knows what he is doing, then that isn't too bad of a price. There are other parts (not just the cartridges) that should be included in this job, and it will need an alignment afterwards. He should also change the rear trailing arm bushings (the "cone" bushings) and examine the anti-roll bar links and bushings as well. Ball joints too (easily changed at this time and not expensive). Also examine the outer and inner tie rod ends. Might as well do them now if necessary as you will need an alignment again if done later.

The only special tool you need for this is a quality spring compressor. This tool is about 35-85 or so. I got this one:

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A pickle for is good for removing the ball joints and tie rod ends.

It is a dangerous job not only becasue you are disassembling a good part of the front end and brakes (and the need t put it all together correctly), but because the compressed spring has enough power that, if released at the wrong time) can kill you. from Randy & Valerie __ __ \ \/ / \__/olvo 1993 960 Estate

Reply to
Randy G.

I've removed and replaced the struts on 240's before but what are "strut inserts" ? The only thing that comes to mind is the cylinder that I would have called a "shock absorber".

Is that what we're talk> snipped-for-privacy@aol.com (Handywired) wrote:

Reply to
Eunoia Eigensinn

Strut inserts are often called shock absorbers on cars with strut suspension. They do perform the shock absorber's function, but also serve to locate the wheel. Because they have more functions that simple shocks do, they are given a different name (and they generally cost more).

Reply to
Mike F

This is for the very experienced DIY mechanic only as it involves using spring compressors to compress the springs (duh :) ).

One false move and you let loose enough energy to do serious damage to yourself.

This is not a job I would recommend to the novice.

John

Reply to
John Horner

I think you are over stating that a bit. Spring compressors are very easy to use, and difficult to get wrong. I would suggest there is more danger in jacking the car up. Provided you think about what you are doing there should be no problem - this is the case with many jobs on a car

Reply to
Stewart Hargrav

Just changing a tire is quite dangerous and has plenty of potential for injury.

I think we could all list ten ways to die working on cars- let's not forget "Don't wear a tie when using a timing light."

I use to do split rims when I worked at Montgomery Wards during college. I did a LOT of them and never had one come apart, but I heard all the stories, and they were quite impressive. One day I mounted one, was walking away from the truck, and heard it 'pop' into place. That was after I had inflated it to about twice the recommended pressure, let the air out, and reinflated it to the proper pressure. We didn't have a decent safety device or cage, so I would lay them on the floor and let the floor lift down on them! other time when the lift was not availabvle I would put my arm through the center hole from behind and inflate them with the front near, and pointing at, a concrete wall.

Although there is no safe place to be, the important thing to remember is that you should treat the compressed spring like a loaded gun and never stand with either end pointing at you. If one of the bolts breaks it can be shot like a bullet, as well as the dancing spring looking for a partner.

The first time you compress one of them you will be quite impressed with how much force it takes. __ __ Randy & \ \/ /alerie's \__/olvo '93 960 Estate

Reply to
Randy G.

I still think this is scaremongering. The OP asked if it was a suitable job for 'a guy with decent skills and tools'. I think it certainly is.

I find it difficult to see how a spring compressor can sensibly be used incorrectly. Buy a decent tool, and the chances of one of the bolts breaking are as likely as one of the bolts in, for example, a brake caliper breaking (I guess it must have happened sometime, but the occurrence is vanishingly small). By the nature of the tool the spring is compressed and released gradually and in a controlled manner.

Make sure the compresors are fitted correctly (it's obvious); don't drop, throw or bounce a compressed spring. But don't be scared of it either. Driving a car is more dangerous. Take as much care as you do every time you fill up with extremely dangerous, explosive fuel.

A suddenly releasing spring may be theoretically possible, but use your brains, and winning the lottery is more likely - even if you haven't bought a ticket.

Reply to
Stewart Hargrav

I agree with Stewart.

So what if the spring compressor lets go (unlikely) ?

You need to use two anyway and even if one let go, the spring wouldn't go anywhere.

If one wanted to be super-cautious and go with the belt and suspenders approach, use some 9 gauge wire to tie the spring up, as well as having the compressors on it.

BTW, I used homemade spring compressors; some hooks bent up from 1/4" x 3/8" bar stock, welded onto the side of three hex nuts welded together, and threaded onto some threaded rod, one end of the rod ground square, for turning.

I'm not what anyone would call mechanically inclined or car savvy and I didn't find the job of R&R'ing the struts to be all that difficult.

Reply to
Eunoia Eigensinn

Here's my post from about a year ago when I replaced mine:

--------------------- Lazy me, I finally got to work today and replaced the ball joints and front strut cartridges along with the strut mounts and bearings. ALthough I have been working on cars (for myself mostly) since 1968, this was the first time for me to do struts- took about 5-5.5 hours including cleanup. I had already done the rear shocks months ago (they were quite bad, but a much easier job).

The front end has had a knock for some time. Hard to tell where it was coming from, but definitely from the front suspension- strut mount or ball joint.

Big surprise- Chiltons was only a modicum of assistance. The 960 is poorly represented in that manual for strut replacement although the basics will help you out a bit.. just a bit.

I would say, if you have to ask if you can do it at home, then the answer is probably no. Although it is not difficult, it is not a job that should be done by the inexperienced, at least not without experienced help there. If you have any doubts get the official Volvo book for front suspension and follow that. Part of what got me through is that I had thought the job out over and over, and pretty much had it down mentally before beginning. I ran into no major surprises.

I did the job alone, but when lowering and raising the suspension assembly assistance would be nice. I do have a pro floor jack and that helps. With the '93 960 the entire hub, rotor, and strut assembly comes out in one piece, so it is heavy and a bit unwieldy.

Besides the standard shop tools you will need a large pipe wrench or equivalent to get the cartridge retaining nut off and a large bench vise to hold the strut for some of the work. A spring compressor is of course mandatory. I got mine from Sears who had it for less than J.C. WHitney or anywhere else I looked. It is the one with the built-in retaining pins and it worked perfect.

I also replaced the ball joints while I was at it as both boots were badly torn. The new joints were much stiffer than the old ones.

I replaced the stock strut cartridges with the Boge Turbo Gas units. It should make for a very compliant yet responsive ride- I will let you know later in the week.

Test ride tomorrow and then on Monday an alignment.

----------------------- and the follow-up post:

------------------------- As I mentioned in an earlier post, I just replaced my front struts and ball joints. Took a short test drive this AM (like one mile) to be sure all was OK before heading the 30 miles into town tomorrow for the alignment.

I remember someone on the list stating that after they did this same job that the ABS worked much better. Same here. Before, the front wheels would stutter but now the things just stops. I had it on the slight-downgrade, dead end road, took it up to about 50, and hit the brakes hard. It brought the cart to a halt quite quickly.

Now, my inquisitive nature is thinking, sure, better weight transfer with the new struts (or actually, less weight transfer to the front wheels) is going to help, but as you know, the ABS sensors in the front hubs have to be removed to do this job. And when they are out you naturally are going to wipe them off to clear off all the magnetic crud that builds up on them, and there was quite a bit on mine...

--------------------------

Hope that helps in some way- __ __ Randy & \ \/ /alerie's \__/olvo '93 960 Estate

Reply to
Randy G.

We face similar situations over on alt.coffee often. Folks will ask about doing some mod or wanting to change a pump out in an espresso machine. The problem comes form a poster defining themselves as having some level of competence and then asking if they could do the work themselves. It is difficult to know through a keyboard if they have the ability to do this job. If the person has read through the procedure and then has to ask 'do you think I can?' then maybe the best advice is to tell them to get help from someone experienced.

When I did mine I didn't hesitate after reading up on the process, but I have rebuilt a motor in an apartments parking area, pulled trannys and replaced 350ci V8s and more. Much more. Heck! I even got better at setting up dual solex carbs on VWs than the mechanics at VW! I guess that isn't saying much, but still! ;-)

Mechanically it is not a difficult job. Considering that it entails a near-total disassembly of the front suspension it just might be one of the easiest jobs of its kind. But since it requires the removal of critical components (suspension and brakes) it is important to answer with some level of responsibility (not saying that you are irresponsible- just that telling every TD&H who drops by that they can do it is not a good idea).

All the little things that we take for granted like making sure all critical components are clean and free from grease and the use of loctite on the critical fasteners, and that the compressor tool is clean and oiled before and after use, and such may not be in the questioner's bag of skills and knowledge. __ __ Randy & \ \/ /alerie's \__/olvo '93 960 Estate

Reply to
Randy G.

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