88 Jetta GLI with wobbly brake/clutch pedal assembly

I just went from owning an 84 GLI (which I broke) to this 88 GLI with

226,000 miles. I am impressed so far. My main complaint is that the brake/clutch pedal assembly shifts around when I step on either pedal. It seems like a flimsy setup compared to the A1 design.

I looked at it today with the help of a friend, and observed the following: 1) The bushings and rods that pass through the assembly appear to be fine; 2) the hydraulic brake cylinder assembly moves a little when the pedals are moved; 3) all the attachment bolts for the pedal assembly and brake cylinder appear to be firmly snugged. Having looked at it, I'm a little less worried about it being structurally sound. However, I drive hard and I can tell that this condition affects the quality of clutch action. It tasks me.

What the heck is going on? Has anyone else ever had this problem? How do I fix it?

Thanks

Reply to
deelywomper
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Reply to
none2u

Reply to
Mad Maxine

I have never experienced anything like that, and wouldn't describe the setup as flimsy. I have heard of the pedal cluster breaking after hard use. I'd try to remove the cluster and carefully inspect that its not damaged. If neccessary, replace it. The clutch isn't that big of deal but if your brake pedal goes, that could be really dangerous.

Reply to
blah

Yep, that's my feeling on it too. At least the emergency brake works well. I got in there with a flashlight and don't see any fractures or screwy bushings. I'm betting that a tack weld gave out between the blades of the assembly.

Looks like I can get a new assembly for a bit over $100. Installation will likely be a bitch, thanks to the heater duct. But ultimately it is a priority and will be worth the effort.

Reply to
Mad Maxine

I have replaced quite of few cracked A2 pedal assemblies over the years. Not lately though. ;-) They seem to crack in a few different spots. I would say they crack because there is too much resistance in the clutch activation system. Either a very stiff cable or a hard to disengage pressure plate.

Not a hard job (there are "shortcuts/tricks") and the dealer by me used to keep the pedal bracket in stock and they only cost around $50 back in the early 90s. 8^o

Reply to
One out of many Daves

Good. I feel like I'm not alone now. I got a new assembly the other day for $140, and will install it tomorrow. I know so far that the biggest pain in the butt on this job is getting up behind the air duct in the dashboard. I'd be interested in any tips or tricks you have in your bag.

Also, what would cause a pressure plate to misbehave? Is it something that can be fixed? The cable seems fine.

Thanks!

Reply to
Mad Maxine

IIRC and it has been quite a while since having to do one. I usually take apart the pedals from the assembly before removing the housing/bracket. I have installed the pedal assembly as a whole but it seems to require a few more items to be removed to take the assembly out and in as a whole, and take more time.

Things to take apart will make sense as you "dive" under the dash. Take pictures if your memory is not photographic. ;-) Remove the clutch cable completely. Take off the clip and pin for the brake booster rod. Take off any switches for the brake lights and cruise. Disconnect the accelerator cable from the pedal. The nuts (4 or 6 maybe) that hold the housing on are under the carpeting and then there is a bolt and nut that support the steering column. Brake and clutch pedal removal if you have not done this yet. Watch out for the springs and things. It will be a little tricky getting that one pin through both of the pedals but it is doable. There is a clip behind the clutch cable guide on the housing (Engine compartment side) that will need to come off.

DON'T FORGET TO REINSTALL THE BRAKE BOOSTER ROD!!

I am sure that I have forgotten a few things, but you will discover them when you start on this job. After you finish make sure that the clutch pedal operates smoothly and easily or you might be doing this again soon! Usually I find that the clutch cable is the problem. The dealer seems to have better ones, but the aftermarket ones are good if you lube them. ;-)

good luck, dave (One out of many daves)

Reply to
One out of many Daves

Thanks for the info. I got the thing replaced. I decided to take out the dashboard stuff and the air duct. I figured I might as well change a faulty couple of lightbulbs in my dash while I was at it.

There was indeed a crack in the assembly. Also I made a discovery, which I'll call Problem 1 (see below).

Problem 1: The top bolt post for the assembly pulled out of its former location on the car body, leaving a hole. I ended up drilling straight up into the next piece of metal above where the bolt was welded (near the back of the dash) and running a piece of all-thread with washers through the body to hold the upper end of the bracket. I think it will hold, and it feels stable.

Problem 2: My parts guy gave me a bracket that isn't quite identical to the one I took out. Everything seems to fit fine, but the brake light switch is too far away from the brake levers. I rigged a bumper for the switch out of strips of rubber, a strap of metal, and some duct tape. It seems to work, but I need a switch with a longer button (or a brake lever with a bigger "bump." Hooray duct tape!

Problem 3: Now the car won't run right. See my new post. ARGH!

Reply to
Mad Maxine

Glad you had success and you did find that crack. Does the clutch and brake pedal operate better and easier?

P:roblem 1 sounds like you took care of the problem

Problem 2............that brake light switch plunger is adjustable. ;-) You can pull that plunger out a little if needed, or at least I have been able to in the past.

Reply to
One out of many Daves

Yes, Everything pedal-related feels like it works a lot better. I now have a little click noise when I step on the brake, though. I don't think it's truly problematic, and it -happened before I Gerry-rigged the brake switch. Of course, Problem 3 makes some of this more difficult to test.

The gap between the switch and the brake pedal lever is about 1/2 inch. I tried to pull gently on the brake switch (I've seen them with longer buttons), but didn't want to break it. Is there a different way to lengthen the switch button? Do they sell switches in different lengths?

Thanks, Max> Glad you had success and you did find that crack.

Reply to
Mad Maxine

edited

Remove the switch and see if you can pull that plunger some more and reset it for installation. YES be careful that you don't pull it out too hard. ;-)

Reply to
One out of many Daves

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