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92 vw corrado slc vr6 ignition problems

I am having problems with my 92 corrado vr6, its missing, bucking, worse around 1500 to 2000 rpms. When pushing throttle it acts like it does not want to go. When it decides to go it will jerk so hard it about gives you whiplash. When at idle when pushing throttle it does not go but after pushing so far it jumps up to about 3000 rpm. Had it in a VW specialty shop and was told it was a timing problem. The timing is jumping around everywhere. Advancing and retarding depending on RPM. But mostly just bouncing around. I have actually had it at 3 shops and everyone comes up with nothing much to go on. All of them specializing in VW or import specialties. The dealer will not even work on it. Sometimes runs perfect when cold for a few minutes(3 minutes or less). Have done complete tune up, plugs, wires, cap, rotor, knock sensors, coil, and coil module. Put evap solenoid, tps sensor on it. Have been told it may be the computer but would like to get other opinions before putting out that much more money. Does anyone know how to check the ECM without VAG tool? I have checked relays, vacuum lines, cleaned conections on grounds and everything else. I can not get the computer to erase the codes that are there most of which are from me unplugging and checking things. Any help would be great, I am at a loss of what to try next.

Reply to
mk_1102
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If you get a Bentley it should give you directions on how to check most items at the ECM plug with a VOM. Do you lose spark when the bucking starts? Might be a bad distributor hall sensor. What about the Coolant Temperature Sensor for the FI?

Have you checked the throttle body?

good luck! later, dave (One out of many daves)

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Reply to
dave AKA vwdoc1

Get the codes cleared, then drive it for several days and then post the fault codes here.

Reply to
Lost In Space/Woodchuck

I have checked coolant temp sensor was ok. Today I checked the hall sender in the dist. it has power to it but when it is unplugged the car still runs the same. I do have a bentley manual but can't find much info on the ignition, it just has a couple sensor checks. Most checks have to have a VAG break out box. I have gotten the codes to clear finally. The only 2 codes staying in it are the speed sensor and idle air control valve which I have been told will show up if engine is not running.

Reply to
mk_1102

could it be a crank position sensor (Engine Speed Sensor)?

Reply to
dave AKA vwdoc1

I talked to a speed shop friday and was told that if the hall-sender is not working that the car will run in limp home mode. Also that it may be running on the crank sensor only. I have been told that if the car is not running when getting the codes it will set a speed sensor code. I am going to do some checking on the distributor today and see if I can find out if it is working right. I will also check the speed sensor.

Reply to
mk_1102

Yes if the G40 sensor in the distributor is faulty the engine still will run. It's only use is for the ECU to know where number on cylinder is(TDI) so it can fire the injector sequentially. If the crank sensor(G28) is faulty the engine will not start.

Reply to
Lost In Space/Woodchuck

I checked the hall sender and the crank sensor everything checks ok. I have a flash on the LED at the distributor and a flash on the LED at the coil power output stage when cranking the engine. When the engine is running I have a flashing LED at the distributor,at the coil it stays lit while running, I guess its flashing to fast to see.

Reply to
mk_1102

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