Hello VW People! I was wondering if I could get some links, or information on procedures, or a good manual to fix my daughters 97 Cabrio with the notorious clicking from the CV joints. Thinking to repack first and new boots.....if that doesnt fix it...new shafts? Brand recommendation? Best supplier? Any input would be greatly appreciated! Thank you. Tom A Littleton CO Die hard Oldsmobile guy but loves all things motorized.
On Mar 25, 9:37=A0pm, Tom442 wrote:
CV joints can be very intimidating, I being cheap and old school (and unemployed) would go with a repack. A kit is available but I know I will get some arguments here but I have repacked them without replacing the boots. Why? As I said I am a cheap S.O.B. BUT here is why, you do not need to take the joints off the shaft(s) Nor do you need to take them off the car... And IF the joints still make noise once repacked, your only out some sweat equity. The boots, if good may last longer than the car, if they are already ripped then the joint no doubt is filled with road debris and is worn out. Repacking goes like this: Snip the retaining band on the big end, the small end it may be that you can slide it down the shaft with the band in place, if not snip it, taking care not to damage the boot in either process - gently negotiate the boot down the shaft I use some cheap brake cleaner and lots of compressed air, think two cans per joint.... give or take, this may be done while the shaft is still installed but is a messy thankless job. Once clean as can be, I use a good molly grease or some made expressly for CV joints. The outer joints, turn the wheel from left lock and pack full while rotating, then full lock the other way, and repeat. I use a small Palm grease gun with a needle like tip, but it can be done with your fingers, it is just messy and easy to contaminate.There are kits of lube that dispense by squeezing as well. When satisfied with your packing, slide the (cleaned) boot back, I use a NYLON ZIP TIES, one or two connected together to re attach the boot to the joint There your done with the outer, clean up and see if it has quieted down, if it is... great.... an hour or two put to good use. if not, you just got some borrowed time and know that at least they are lubed, I have seldom seen where an inner CV joint is the culprit, or really require repacking. If you do plan on taking out the shafts, you had best have a powerful impact tool to remove the axle nut. NOTE: On tools Back in the day I used a 3/4" inch breaker bar, a four foot plus extension and a big rock, brick, or whatever to chalk the drive wheel I was attempting to remove the nut from. This procedure works great, just be sure to do this with all four wheels on the ground. You would be surprised to know that you can easily drive your car over some smaller objects with a 4 foot breaker bar before the nut breaks loose. I can't remember exactly, but the torque, is like upwards to 250 Ft Lbs? perhaps lower, like 180, but you get the point? It is ON there and MUST be like that when you are done.... so get THE socket that fits, anything less than a 3/4" breaker bar will no doubt fail, a 1/2" to 3/4" socket adapter will be OK and serve you forever. A 1/2" Air powered impact will suffice otherwise.
I like doing a repack in place, because although it is like I said a messy job, it can save both time and money. Taking a CV shaft assembly out is not always easy, removal is only part of the problem. Dropping the ball joint, and or tie rod, can lead to the need for realignment.. Brake hoses, or caliper removal, Oil seals damaged on the transaxle if not very careful, etc. Now if I did this for a living (and I did for twenty plus years) I would sell a repack, but push for a re manufactured shaft assembly. Taking a CV Joint off the shaft can lead to buying more tools, like a clip expander, BIG Hammers, a Vise. All you wanted to do was replace some boots eh? There was, perhaps still is a "Split BOOT" kit out there...... these had all the makings of a great idea, and did work, but you had to be a surgeon to get them glued together, and a few attending just in case either your or the boot hemorrhaged in the process. Labor is a killer for most folks dealing retail.... and I hate come backs. Good luck in your endeavors Best regards
If they're already clicking, the easiest fix is just to replace the shaft. Rebuilding your own with new Lobro CV joints will actually cost about the same as reman halfshafts from your FLAPS... I guess how long are you planning on keeping this car? You'll need a "triple square" tool to remove the inner CV, a big socket for the outer nut, and finally, if you decide to rebuild, you'll need an Oetiker clamp tool, although you might be able to fake it with some dull diagonal cutters.
here's a *new* halfshaft for a pretty good price
nate
Hmmm, like others said, if it's clicking then it's damaged. Get a rebuilt or a new.
Here is an article on CV inspection:
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