oil light problems

Dec 04, 2005 10 Replies

I have a 1986 GTI with a transplanted 16v. It has been running fine until last week when the oil light began to come on. When the engine is started the light is off but as soon as you speed the engine up it turns on. As far as we can tell the engine still has oil pressure. What also raises concern is that when you start up the engine and go down the road the car is Fast, but once the engine warms up it loses a major amount of power. Any help and solving these problems or figuring out if they are related would be appreciated. Thanks, Dan


I would get a mechanical oil gauge on there and find out what is really happening. Driving it like that sounds like it is damaging the engine already. How is the oil level?

Let me add, Could the oil level be too high? Maybe with the change over, no one checked to see if the dipstick is still reading the correct level? Too much oil could cause what you are seeing.

The oil light goes out when the engine speed returns to idle. When the RPM is increased, the light comes on dimly, but goes out if the headlights are turned on or if the power windows are operated.

The alternator is grounded as is the motor and chasiss.

in article BFB8BE1C.8070% snipped-for-privacy@mchsi.com, Wayne Faas at snipped-for-privacy@mchsi.com wrote on 12/4/05 3:39 PM:

Hey, I don't know if this could be the problem but I've experienced an oil light coming on with my 1.8L... The cause.. thin oil... apparnatly VW oil pumps like the thicker stuff sometimes. If you're running 5w30 that could be your problem. IF you have the time switch it to 10w30 and see what happens

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Dan, read the messages already posted if you have not.

Thanks to everyone for their responses.

Finally had time to installed an oil pressure gauge and after after running the engine for 10 min, the following oil pressures were noted

1,000 RPM = 15 psig (1.0 bar) 3,000 RPM = 50 psig (3.4 bar)

The problem must be electrical, as the light is not on at idle, but comes on dimly as the RPM increases. However, if a power window is operated, the oil light goes out.

Perplexed, Dan

in article 39Wkf.141484$ snipped-for-privacy@tornado.ohiordc.rr.com, Joseph Meehan at sligojoe snipped-for-privacy@hotmail.com wrote on 12/5/05 6:12 AM:

You might try connecting a jumper cable from the negative of the battery to metal hooked to the engine block. If that does not help, try chassis to engine block. If things improve either way, look to put in a more permanent ground path.

in article snipped-for-privacy@4ax.com, Tom's VR6 at snipped-for-privacy@mail.please wrote on 12/10/05 12:45 PM:

Tom,

I had previously tried jumping alternator to battery and engine to battery, with no effect. After the above posting this morning, I tried jumping battery to body and that solved the problem. The battery is grounded to the body near the bottom of the battery and the connection was rusty and corroded.

Problem solved and thank you to everyone for your advice.

Dan

You got to make sure the oil is hot, and 10min isn't long enough. From memory the spec id 2bar at 200rpm. I usually did the test after 45minutes of running.

Actually at 2000 RPM it should be at least 2 bar, and at idle (about 1000 RPM) it should be at least 1 bar, and don't rely on the center console gages for your pressure measurements.

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