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oil pressure low light on during hot idle - solved.

I walked into PepBoy last night and found an engine oil thickering fluid - StopSmoke. I poured twice as much as described in the instruction, today, the light no longer goes on. By next change, I'll pour in 20w-50.

thanks for all the feedbacks, Ben

I have great results with Syntec 5w50. Regular 20w50 could cure your > problem too. Mine was doing the exact same thing. You'll burn a little > less oil with the 50 than with the 40 or 30. > -Dave > > > > I'm using 10-30W, or 10-40W. Since oil keeps getting burned at 1qtr per > 1000 > > miles, I hesitate to use the more expensive synthetic. Is single weight > > generally better than multi-grade and why? > > > > The Bentley doesn't contain detailed procedures in removing and > reinstalling > > the oil pump. Do you happen to know a site with such info? Since it'll be > a > > thirty job, I don't want to open it and then notice I need more parts. > I've > > already got a new oil pan seal. > > > > thanks a lot for the response. > > Ben > > > > > > > The new bigger pump I got came with the pickup so unless yours has been > on > > a > > > while I doubt the sceen is clogged. What weight oil are you using? You > may > > > need to switch to a single weight like 30w. Maybe synthetic as dino > thinns > > > out as it getts hot. > > > > > > Joe R > > > > > > > 91Jetta GL, Wolfsburg Edition, 251,000 miles. > > > > > > > > in a previous thread, I got recommendations to replace the oil pump. > > Mine > > > is > > > > already the 36mm gear. > > > > > > > > My question is, could it be that the pickup got clogged and not > letting > > > > enough oil to be sucked in at idle speed? Then I just need to clean > the > > > > pickup. I noticed as long as I keep the rpm at over 1000, the light no > > > > longer blicks. > > > > > > > > What is in the pickup? is it a kind of filter as well? > > > > > > > > thanks, > > > > Ben > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > On Wed, 09 Jul 2003 19:21:22 GMT Bob: > > > > Replacing the oil pump is not all that hard. I'd recommend it, and I > > > > would recommend using a 36 MM gear pump, as used on the 2.0L engine. > > > > You will need the longer bolt for the pump that goes with the 2.0, but > > > > it is a direct swap otherwise. If your mech does it, expect > > > > $175-$250. I did mine at 150K for the same reason and smooth sailing > > > > since (193K). > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > >"Benjamin Zhou" wrote in > > > > >news:zoSOa.582$ snipped-for-privacy@newssvr33.news.prodigy.com: > > > > > > > > > >> Oh, sorry, I missed one '0'. it's 250,000 miles. > > > > >> > > > > >Or if you don't want to replace the oil pump or engine (yet) try a > > > heavier > > > > >oil, if you have been using a lighter one. I have to use 20w50 in > > order > > > to > > > > >keep this from happening, but otherwise the engine runs fine. Was > told > > > by > > > > >a parts guy that as the bearings wear, you need to use thicker oil. > At > > > > >some point, of course, they will need to be replaced, but maybe you > > don't > > > > >want to rebuild the engine. > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > >
Reply to
Benjamin Zhou
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You know, that just doesn't sound good. Why not just put the 20-50 in there? W/o a filter, it's still less than ten bucks.

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Reply to
John Rutledge

The light is off, but the real problem is still there. The engine is likely just tired. However you are not doing any additional damage and can put off the eventual need for a real repair, so it is not really a bad choice.

BTW, I would worry a little about using two cans of the stuff. You could clog up some passageways and reduce oil flow to other parts of the engine and damage them.

Reply to
Joseph Meehan

No, I just poured in one bottle, the instruction says half bottle for 4 cyl-engine. it's just a temp relieve. I bought 4 qt 20W-50 synthetic. will replace them when I raise the car next time with my shift-linkage project.

thanks a lot. Ben

Reply to
Benjamin Zhou

Ha, mechanic in a can. All you did was slow down the inevitable, a rebuild. The oil light flickers for a reason, lack of oil pressure be it oil pump,oil galley blockage, main bearings or in my case disconnected IAC valve. You have to find the problem as thick oil makes turning over a little more difficult and if you are in a cold climate in the winter will make for hard starting.

Reply to
Mustangbrad

Actually, it's the tips from all the response in this thread made me understand that I've got to change the oil at lease twice a year at season's change. I changed my oil the last time 25,000 miles ago. This was because I thought it got burned anyway and the deep-stick is pretty clean.

This time at change, I first poured in a can of engine flush detergent and run the engine for 10 minutes to let it flush all the part first before releasing the oil-pan plug. It's really dirty. much dirtier than I can see from the deep-stick.

thanks a lot, Ben

Reply to
Benjamin Zhou

Now drain it and put the proper viscocity oil in, I bet the flicker comes back, If you drove the car for that long with really badly blocked oil passages chances are the damage has been done.

Reply to
Mustangbrad
25000 MILES??? You thought it got burned AWAY??? Like that's a good thing? The dipstick was CLEAN???

Keep an eye out for a 'WTB: Engine' post.

in

Reply to
black francis

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