Mobil 1

I've read various posts from time to time recommending this oil here. Can it be run in any engine, even if that engine has been running regular oil for a 100,000 miles or more? If so, is there a procedure
for making the switch?
Hatt
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Hold it a min. Steve. First off, when you have a truck there is no need to put it on jack stands to change the oil........that is unless you have a low rider. Secondly, why wait until you have changed the oil to enjoy the beverage. <g> MR

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from dj's other posts I believe he has an s-10. my k2500 let's me get under there on a creeper with no jack : )
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Hatt,
On a higher mileage engine the Mobil 1 will break a lot of sludge free during the first 1000 miles. I recommend changing to Mobil 1 oil AND filters, run it for 1000 miles, change oil AND filter again, then you're good to go every 3-5k.
Doc

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here.
procedure
free
AND
you're
Ok Doc, but is breaking loose this stuff really something I'd want to do? I mean years ago, it was something we "didn't," want to do because a theory was it would loosen things up too much. Am I right? Do you remember this? Also, theres no harm then with residual oil mixing with this sythetic stuff?
Hatt
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Hatt,
1) Breaking the sludge loose might "find" some leaks in seals, gaskets, etc., just as Red said. 2) Synthetic and Conventional oils are FULLY compatible.
Doc

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Hatt,     I'll second that, and add a bit. The crud that formed in the engine in 100k can act like stop-leak, sealing small oil leaks as you go. You *may* find "new" oil leaks that you never knew you had, if you switch now.     If you find a leak, make sure the bolts around there are torqued to specs, before you change anything. The engine *may*, or may not, need a new gasket or two. If so, the maintenance was needed anyway, really.     All told, I think that it's better to switch. The engine should last a lot longer on synthetic.
--
Cheers,
Red
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I switched to full synthetic at 80,000 miles on my 94 4.3. I found ONE oil leak that may or may not have been caused by the change to synthetic. I switched over to Mobil 1 at around 95,000 or so, still no leaks, but still no noticeable increase in gas mileage.

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When I bought my 99 Z-71 it had over 80k on it. I switched to a full syntactic oil right away. It now has over 120k on it. No leaks, no burn, no problems.
wrote:

*may*
specs,
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"Steve W." wrote:

What about the part where you fish the wrench out of the drain pan, burn your hands on everything hot and wipe freshly splashed, scalding hot oil off your face? My procedure includes these critical steps?
Joshua
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Well some people just want to be different......I have only got hot oiled once. Happened on a Jeep. Guy was "just helping", I was under it pulling the drain plug and he decided to be a nice guy and loosen the filter. He still is banned from the shop.
--
Pacifism - The theory that if they'd fed
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Hi,
I have yet to hear an answer that I like to this question, so I'm hoping someone here can provide it. Mobil1 oil contains graphite, it is one of very few (?) oils that do that. Since it does have the graphite, once you start using it, you should always use it. So, now the question, what happens if you do switch? From what I hear, people who use it, absolutely swear by it, so they wouldn't do it on their own. So this is more for someone who just bought the vehicle, and didn't know the previous owner was using it.
TIA Bill

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RE/

Only observation I can offer is that I wouldn't run it in a new engine until it had 10-20,000 miles on it using dino oil.
I ran it from day 1 in mine and the thing burned oil at a higher-than-normal rate for about the first 60k. Then it finally dawned on me that maybe the Mobil-1 had interfered with the break-in process.
So I started alternating dino for awhile.
First thing I noticed was more and larger flakes of metal on the magnetic drain plug when running dino. With Mobil-1 it was only a fine powder. With dino it was slivers and flakes for several changes.
Second thing I noticed was that it burned almost no oil between 2000-mile changes using dino. With Mobil-1, I always had to add a quart.
Third thing: now I'm back to using Mobil-1 and I'm getting through the 2000-mile changes without having to add any. It gets a couple holes low on the dipstick, but never reaches "Add".
Fourth thing: Eventually the larger flakes when using dino went away, to be replace by the fine powder.
Maybe all these obsevations were conincidences - but the picture I get is that the dino oil allowed more wear - which was needed for the parts to bed in. ----------------------- PeteCresswell
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It's only an observation. I pretend zero knowledge of how things work.
Having said that, my first speculation would be that those motors are more finely-built than what's in my 'burb.
Given the number of times I moved back-and-forth between Mobil-1 and dino and the consistancy of what was on the magnetic drain plug I'd be hard pressed to think it was coincidence.
Maybe somebody who knows something can offer another explaination... I'm a little leery of mine just because I never thought of synthetics as lubricating any better - just as holding their properties under a wider range of conditions.
RE/

----------------------- PeteCresswell
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