My truck is humming a tune

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On Sat, 23 Oct 2004 21:45:01 GMT, "shiden_kai"


Good to know I wasn't doing anything wrong there. Any thoughts on the caliper sticking in the bracket? I won't need new pads anytime soon so it's not a HUGE issue, but the pads won't slide IN enough to take out without pulling the caliper off, so I couldn't get a look at it.
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Mike Levy wrote:

Are you saying the caliper sliding pin bolts wont slide properly? Depending on the caliper and pad set up, you can often just slide the bracket and pads right off the two slider bolts, put the new hardware in the bracket and slide the whole assembly back onto the bolts. Some aren't quite as easy, in that case, I'd take out one of the slider bolts, and pivot the caliper up and away from the pads on the remaining bolt. You should then be able to replace the pads without even removing the bracket from the knuckle, compress the pistons, and swing the caliper back into place.
Not sure if I answered your question.
Ian
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On Sun, 24 Oct 2004 15:25:03 GMT, "shiden_kai"

I've removed both slide pins, as described for pad replacement. The caliper would still not slide off the pads and bracket. It pulls partway off then stops, as though there's a clip or something in the way. The pads slide in grooves in the bracket, not much chance the pads will come out of the braket with the caliper on, and they won't slide towards each other enough to get them out.
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. . ======================Mike Levy wrote in mesg: . but the pads won't slide IN enough to take out without pulling the caliper off, ============so..... Ian wrote: . Are you saying the caliper sliding pin bolts wont slide properly? Depending on the caliper and pad set up, you can often just slide the bracket and pads right off the two slider bolts, put the new hardware in the bracket and slide the whole assembly back onto the bolts. Some aren't quite as easy, in that case, I'd take out one of the slider bolts, and pivot the caliper up and away from the pads on the remaining bolt. You should then be able to replace the pads without even removing the bracket from the knuckle, compress the pistons, and swing the caliper back into place. . Not sure if I answered your question. Ian ==============then.... Mike Levy wrote: . I've removed both slide pins, as described for pad replacement. The caliper would still not slide off the pads and bracket. It pulls partway off then stops...... ==========then Ian wrote : . Oh..I see now what you are up against. You probably need to retract the piston slightly. Often, before I even undo any bolts, I will stick the blade of a fairly hefty screwdriver in there and pry the piston back at least an 1/8 of an inch. ============then Mike Levy wrote: . How do I do that with a dual-piston caliper? Won't pushing one poston back push the other one out? ==============then Marsh fell out his chair holding his gut, rolling on the floor....and screamed:
WHO'S ON FIRST???? lol
~mike,pry against the inboard pad so it will push both pistons in at the same time, i would suggest opening the bleeder on the caliper to let the fuid pressure release....instead of letting the fluid pressure backfeed into the master, via the plumbing. Just close the bleeder while you still have pressure going against the pistons and fluid is still flowing...that will insure you don't get any air in the system.~
hopefully helpfull marsh ~:~ =======
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