HELP! Immobilizer locked up.

I have a breakdown call out. But as my car is at home I'm a low priority and probably won't get serviced until tomorrow, Sunday. So meanwhile I'd appreciate any advice I can get in either of these two newsgroups please.
I may then be able to fix it myself.
Something has screwed up the anti-theft and/or automatic locking system on my 1996 BMW 328i SE Auto. Two results: I cannot open the boot, and my hazard warning lights cannot be turned off.
I can start the engine OK. I can unlock the driver and passenger doors manually with the key. The remote auto-locking button on my key fob has no effect on anything.
Taking events as I recall them happening: 1. On trying to open the car automatically with the remote auto-locking button (after nearly a week) it didn't work. 2. So I opened the car with the key 3. I started the engine. 4. The alarm went off, and I stopped it somehow. 5. When I stopped the engine and removed the key, the hazard warning lights continued. Pressing the hazard switch on/off made no difference.
I thought I'd resort to disconnecting the battery, which I recalled was in the boot somewhere. That's when I discovered I couldn't open the boot! (What's that all about BTW? Why should I be unable to open it manually with the key, just like the doors?)
So far I see no way of disconnecting the battery under the bonnet?
Should I now try removing fuses? There seem to be 4 possibly relevant sets:
Anti-theft Alarm System: fuses 31, 34, 43, 47 (the latter inaccessible under glove box)
Central Locking system: fuses 7, 35, 43
Immobilizer: fuses 31, 45
Hazard warning flasher and turn indicator lights: fuses 23, 34
I managed to stop the hazard lights by removing #34. (Although now, after preparing the above, I see I could have probably done so more simply and with no possible effect on other aspects, by removing #23 or 24.)
But how should best proceed to restore correct operation of everything please? Can I do so by methodical removal and immediate replacement of certain fuses?
Any help would be much appreciated please.
--
Terry, East Grinstead, UK

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Terry Pinnell wrote:

apparently the linkage drops off which is why the bootkey won't work. there are two different keyfob types: 2 or three button. it sounds like yours has become out of sync with the car or the batteries are flat. the procedures are different for each type.
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Thanks. I found fuse #35 was blown.
http://dl.dropbox.com/u/4019461/Fuses%2BRelays%2BDetail.jpg
Replaced it and tried the remote again and it immediately blew it. Replaced it again and this time it didn't blow. But afraid to close doors and boot again until I can get access to a dealer! Snow/ice on local road currently preventing that.
--
Terry, East Grinstead, UK

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I have no web access. What is on this fuse?

Is the door lock heater by any chance on fuse #35? If so, stick the ammeter on it and see what you have.
Check all the door solenoids for damaged wiring... if something is shorting to ground (even partially) it will blow the fuse when the solenoid is activated.
I absolutely hate these stupid anti-theft systems. In the older cars they cause more problems than theft does. --scott
--
"C'est un Nagra. C'est suisse, et tres, tres precis."

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But which came first? Old cars without an immobiliser are now targets for joyriders.
--
*Oh, what a tangled website we weave when first we practice *

Dave Plowman snipped-for-privacy@davenoise.co.uk London SW
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In the US it's less of an issue since the kids don't know how to drive standard shift. But it's true, it happens. You pick one risk or the other. --scott
--
"C'est un Nagra. C'est suisse, et tres, tres precis."

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Terry Pinnell wrote:

fuse 35 only does central locking and if applicable convertible roof
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I threw caution to the winds and tried closing it just now. All seems OK. The remote button on the rectangular gizmo (separate from the key with its inbuilt light) works correctly again. My guess is that the boot lock was frozen. We had temps down to -9 recently.
--
Terry, East Grinstead, UK

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