Good work with the starting fluid! That's troubleshooting!
Ah! Looks like I forgot to ask 'what happened just before the symptom appeared?'. Sounds like you have some gunk in the fuel line that expands with temperature, cutting off fuel.
The fuel pump and filter were replaced for $605, and a week later the Hall effect sensor for $180.
My mechanic offered to put the old Hall effect switch back in and refund that, but I'm worried that the old pump might have been good too. He determined the pump was bad because it had voltage at its terminals but there was no fuel pressure. An injector didn't cause that, but is it possible there could be a blockage that is temperature sensitive?
He did replace the filter. I forgot that until I referred back to the invoice. So it's not the filter either. Can the intake in the tank get clogged, or the line before the filter?
From where I sit, you are being rather grossly overcharged.
Same here. It sounds as if he is using the "shotgun" approach rather than properly diagnosing the fault.
I'm still wondering about a potentially flaky injector, but as with all the other responses you've gotten, this is just conjecture. The only sure way to find and fix the fault is to get the car to a competent diagnostician.
H'mm...nothing too terribly grossly out of line here, I don't suppose. I might quibble with $210 worth of labor, but I don't have a flat-rate book in front of me and I don't know your guy's labor rate, either.
TILT. That is a $30 to $40 part that takes all of 10 minutes to install. Let's assume he's really slow and give him 30 minutes. That makes his labor rate about $157/hr. Bzzt.
Exactly my point. There are lots of reasons why there might be no fuel pressure. It points to a problem with the fuel pump *or its extensive control circuit which includes several relays, a great deal of wire, a control computer and several switches and sensors* or the fuel pressure regulator.
And after the new pump, we have no fuel *flow*. Pretty much the same thing.
Is that a throttle body or carburated engine? Or does it have per-cylinder injectors?
I would be greatly tempted to disconnect the gas line at both ends and blow some air through it with a compressor (set for 5-10 psi) just to see if it is clear. I think I would have a cloth bag loosely tied to one end to catch 'foreign matter' thus emitted.
I don't know about the part, but he will refund the $210 since it wasn't the problem. The time (1 hour apparently) was spent road testing and searching for an intermittent problem. There is probably a minimum 1 hour charge too.
The thing is, though, he measured 12 volts at the pump, and no pressure (not sure where it was measured). Doesn't that rule out most things? I still wonder if the pick-up or the line could be blocked.
Nope. A faulty connection, faulty relay, faulty wire or faulty ground could allow 12v at the tiny current needed to cause "12.0" to appear on a voltmeter's display, while being sufficiently resistive to block the much higher current needed to start and run the pump reliably.
Not likely. In order to show 12V across the pump, you'd have to be supplying enough current to create that kind of drop. So you're looking at the pump, the connection at the pump, or the pickup, or something like that.
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