Stalls after fixed time - second go 'round

Not I.

Good work with the starting fluid! That's troubleshooting!

Ah! Looks like I forgot to ask 'what happened just before the symptom appeared?'. Sounds like you have some gunk in the fuel line that expands with temperature, cutting off fuel.

Or something.

How's your fuel filter look, hmmm?

--Winston

Reply to
Winston
Loading thread data ...

I'm beginning to wonder about a potentially flaky injector.

Reply to
Daniel J. Stern

The fuel pump and filter were replaced for $605, and a week later the Hall effect sensor for $180.

My mechanic offered to put the old Hall effect switch back in and refund that, but I'm worried that the old pump might have been good too. He determined the pump was bad because it had voltage at its terminals but there was no fuel pressure. An injector didn't cause that, but is it possible there could be a blockage that is temperature sensitive?

Reply to
Tom Del Rosso

Quoting you 6/5 at 9:03 PM: > "When replacing the pump he checked the filter, > then after a few days I noticed this behavior."

Gas filter was *checked?* How? A flow test outside the car? Did your mechanic *replace* the filter after checking it?

Or not? :)

Could be. The most logical place for that to happen is the fuel filter, no?

--Winston

Reply to
Winston

He did replace the filter. I forgot that until I referred back to the invoice. So it's not the filter either. Can the intake in the tank get clogged, or the line before the filter?

Reply to
Tom Del Rosso

Replacement parts can be bad too.

-Bruce

Reply to
Bruce Chang

From where I sit, you are being rather grossly overcharged.

Same here. It sounds as if he is using the "shotgun" approach rather than properly diagnosing the fault.

I'm still wondering about a potentially flaky injector, but as with all the other responses you've gotten, this is just conjecture. The only sure way to find and fix the fault is to get the car to a competent diagnostician.

Reply to
Daniel J. Stern

Here are the items before tax.

$268.90 fuel pump $32.70 filter $210 labor (drop the tank, etc) $45 tow

$78.90 Hall effect sensor: $75 labor

Before the new pump, he said there was no fuel pressure.

Reply to
Tom Del Rosso

H'mm...nothing too terribly grossly out of line here, I don't suppose. I might quibble with $210 worth of labor, but I don't have a flat-rate book in front of me and I don't know your guy's labor rate, either.

TILT. That is a $30 to $40 part that takes all of 10 minutes to install. Let's assume he's really slow and give him 30 minutes. That makes his labor rate about $157/hr. Bzzt.

Exactly my point. There are lots of reasons why there might be no fuel pressure. It points to a problem with the fuel pump *or its extensive control circuit which includes several relays, a great deal of wire, a control computer and several switches and sensors* or the fuel pressure regulator.

Reply to
Daniel J. Stern

Tom Del Rosso wrote: (...)

And after the new pump, we have no fuel *flow*. Pretty much the same thing.

Is that a throttle body or carburated engine? Or does it have per-cylinder injectors?

I would be greatly tempted to disconnect the gas line at both ends and blow some air through it with a compressor (set for 5-10 psi) just to see if it is clear. I think I would have a cloth bag loosely tied to one end to catch 'foreign matter' thus emitted.

--Winston

Reply to
Winston

It's a 1992 Acclaim 4-cylinder, as the guy originally posted. That means it's a TBI engine. (Carbureted? In 1992? C'mon.)

Reply to
Daniel J. Stern

$70 or $75 is the norm around New York City.

I don't know about the part, but he will refund the $210 since it wasn't the problem. The time (1 hour apparently) was spent road testing and searching for an intermittent problem. There is probably a minimum 1 hour charge too.

The thing is, though, he measured 12 volts at the pump, and no pressure (not sure where it was measured). Doesn't that rule out most things? I still wonder if the pick-up or the line could be blocked.

Reply to
Tom Del Rosso

Nope. A faulty connection, faulty relay, faulty wire or faulty ground could allow 12v at the tiny current needed to cause "12.0" to appear on a voltmeter's display, while being sufficiently resistive to block the much higher current needed to start and run the pump reliably.

Reply to
Daniel J. Stern

Not likely. In order to show 12V across the pump, you'd have to be supplying enough current to create that kind of drop. So you're looking at the pump, the connection at the pump, or the pickup, or something like that.

Reply to
Joe Pfeiffer

But we don't know whether the tech checked for 12v across the pump, or just across the (removed) pump feed wire.

Reply to
Daniel J. Stern

Well, he said 12V at the pump, so I was assuming the pump was in the circuit. If not, your comments above are correct.

Reply to
Joe Pfeiffer

I doubt he would try to measure it disconnected, but I'll ask him.

Reply to
Tom Del Rosso

MotorsForum website is not affiliated with any of the manufacturers or service providers discussed here. All logos and trade names are the property of their respective owners.