Guess whos back with a boatload of new questions!!!

If you want a USED pulley E-mail me (cause I will not remember, hell I barely remember to check my mail, hehe), and Ill tryto hook you up. Charles

If it's a crud-rebuilder (you know what I mean Joe), likely the case halfs are what may work. Not orginals, hek the front half or rear half may be GM with a tiawan other half. Like Duralast brand. Charles

Yes Charles.

A "spray and pray" rebuilder. LOL.

Spray it with grey paint, clean/replace the ONE part that's bad with a junky used one, put it back together and pray it works :).

I do my own :). Joe--ASE Certified Parts Specialist & 10th Ann.Club Tech Director '80 Carousel Red Turbo T/A, 27k orig. '79 "Y89" 400/4 speed 10th Ann. T/A, 57k orig '84 Olds 88 Royale Bgm 2 dr, 307 "Rocket" (lol), 143k and still going.... '91 S10 Blazer 4.3Z

Thats how CarQuest does their rebuilds. The "rebuilt" alternator I got from them was worse than my old one that was 30 years old and 133K miles. I swapped in the bearings from the CarQuest alternator into my old one and now its got 147K on it and still working ......

I rebuild my own or use Delco, so I believe ya :) Joe--ASE Certified Parts Specialist & 10th Ann.Club Tech Director '80 Carousel Red Turbo T/A, 27k orig. '79 "Y89" 400/4 speed 10th Ann. T/A, 57k orig '84 Olds 88 Royale Bgm 2 dr, 307 "Rocket" (lol), 143k and still going.... '91 S10 Blazer 4.3Z

I glass bead all my cases!

Refinish King

snipped-for-privacy@aol.com

Joe:

What's the average price for the major parts to replace in the average GM alternator? (just a ball park figure)

If it's low enough I may start rebuilding them & selling them on-line with a warrantee (like a 1 or 2 year). The core buyers around here no longer pay much for them, and for the last year I have been leaving mystery units in unless I pull the engine. Unlike Spray and Pray rebuilders I would actually test each part, replace barring, bead blast the case, ect. Then I would bench test the rebuilt units (I need to buy a bench tester anyways).

If I could pull enough profit wise to do so, I would get some capital up, hire and train a few employee's, buy more equipment and rent another shop just for it. Heck I would probably be one of the few rebuilders that would sell a person a Julian Date Code Correct Alternator for their specific car that would be show correct.

Charles

Charles:

There are various sources for the parts.

The major ignition companies like Standard, Borg Warner, Wells, Delco, et al all supply the parts in their ignition lines.

Of the top of my head, you need basically (quoting Standard Part #s): D-4 diode, RC-14 radio capacitor, D-11 diode trio, D680 Delco regulator (or VR111 in Standard), RX99A or RX103A brush/holder (depending), 203SS and MNJ471S bearings, depending on the case, and that's it. Polish the slip rings on a lathe (we have a laboratory and machine shop at work and I'm friends with both the supervisor of the shop and the machinist that works there---I drive him home at times), so I have that advantage most might not.

It will probably net you $65 in parts alone, at a discount. Motormite and others make kits of parts, but they may vary in quality.

The main thing would be to get all the bearings wholesale and have a good stock of the major parts. The big nut is the D-4 diode block, it's probably the most expensive part of the rebuild. The other stuff is fairly cheap.

Delco is farming out some of the parts and they are likely coming from similar vendors as the big aftermarkets out there. There aren't many folks making this stuff anymore.

One thing you may wish to get is a Delco Remy breakdown manual/application guide. That lists all the production and service casting #s for a given application by specification. It even includes things like horns, and other Delco Remy parts. I have copies of them at work, it's good stuff.

For example, 1103062 is what is in my '79 Trans Am now for an alternator, and by all accounts, this is "not original". However, I have talked to other 10th owners and some have the same number. It may have been an alternate number that was used or a warranty replacement.

The data seems to match my build data. My car was built in April 1979 and the date on it is early to mid March of 1979. Makes sense.

To answer your question: You would need to be about 10% under Delco to be competitve. You can probably buy a Delco reman (78A upgrade) for my 79 T/A for about $100 at retail (about a $1 an amp. LOL), a lot less if you're a guy like me :).

Hope that sheds a little light on the issue for you. If not, ask away, let's discuss. Joe--ASE Certified Parts Specialist & 10th Ann.Club Tech Director '80 Carousel Red Turbo T/A, 27k orig. '79 "Y89" 400/4 speed 10th Ann. T/A, 57k orig '84 Olds 88 Royale Bgm 2 dr, 307 "Rocket" (lol), 143k and still going.... '91 S10 Blazer 4.3Z