91 Ford Explorer Transmission Problem

"Screwed"? That's a fourteen year old truck, there. Anyway, your best bet is really to take it to a decent shop (AAMCO) is not considered a decent shop!) and have it checked over.

Bill Funk Change "g" to "a"

I meant screwed in that I'm going to have to spend some bucks there.

I was reading up on this subject and thought I'd try draining all the fluid, change the filter, etc. If the filter was real clogged that may be my problem.

Mike

Rut Roh! I know this behavior.

Hey Mike,

That is the transmission telling you it's time to see the repair shop. You can have your current one rebuilt or exchange it for a rebuilt one. It's a common problem with the earlier Explorer automatics. The longer you wait, the better your chance of being stranded. Don't go for a simple patchwork repair, do the job right and you won't regret it. The transmission is the weak link in the chain. Assuming your truck is in otherwise good shape, paying for a rebuild or exchange sure beats new truck payments. I had 245,000 on my EB, had the rebuild at 120,000. I'd still have it if it wasn't in an accident.

I have a '94 Explorer with 129k miles with the identical problem. I have checked the transmission fluid and had to add ~2 1/2 quarts, that has helped the problem but not completely. The mystery is - where has the fluid gone, the transmission does not leak and the under side of the car is fairly clean. My next step it to take it to the shop, which is not something I am to keen on doing; my philosopy is the best way to keep your car out of the shop is to keep your car out of the shop. Anyway please let me know if you make a progress. Charles Kirk, Laurel, MD

I determined that the problem with my transmission was a bad vacuum diaphragm throttle control modulator. The diagram had ruptured which was allowing transmission fluid to be sucked into the engine. All of the newer tranmissions are computer controlled so this part is now obsolete. The engine had been blowing some smoke in the last few days but I hadn't tied the two together. I now have a new vaccum diaphragm ($15 and about one hour to replace; its a tough one to get to between the frame rail and the catalytic converter), topped of the transmission fluid and changed the engine oil and all is well. I am crossing my fingers that I caught the problem before any real permanant damage was done to the transmission. Good Luck with yours.

Thanks for the reply; maybe you can help me with another question. I have added A/T fluid to the transmission since replacing the modulator, however, I'm having trouble determining if the fluid level is correct. When I check the level first thing in the morning when the engine is cold, ~70F, the fluid level reads well above the hatching on the dipstick, indicating there is too much fluid. The manual states that when the fluid is "cold" (>50F) the fluid should be between the holes in the bottom of the stick (which is below the hatched area). When I check the fluid when the engine is at operating temperature, after having shifted through all of the gears, the fluid is below the hatching, indicating that the transmission is low on fluid. Have you encountered this problem? If so do you know what the problem is, if there is one, and the solution. The manual states that checking the fluid when hot is the "preferred methid" so I am assuming that the transmission is still low on fluid. Any insightes or suggestions you could provide would be greatly appreciated. Thanks

It sounds like you don't have the engine running, at this point, correct?

The manual states that when the fluid

The engine is off when I check it cold and running when checked warm.

That explains the discrepancy. The engine should be running when you check it..hot or cold. I agree, you are low on fluid.

Michael Hill wrotenews:41236B0D.B943B3E2 @ram.lmtas.lmco.com:

$1,400.

That's almost exactly the problem I had on mine. 145,000 miles. I dropped the pan and the fluid was thick, dark and all over the bottom of the pan were tiny silver bits, like someone had spray painted silver paint into the fluid. It was also gummy and thick there too.

I cleaned it, replaced the fluid and it helped a bit but realized it was toast and a tranny guy I trust told me the plates were down to bare metal and that was metal I was seeing. Total rebuild, new torque converter etc. $1,400.

This ain't a Honda or Toyota, so you can expect to have to have a new tranny in an American car about this time frame.

-- riki

--Those who live by the sword get shot by those who don't.

Michael Hill wrotenews:416FE867.443A6A27 @ram.lmtas.lmco.com:

Update:

Got it back. Runs fine now. It had 156,000 miles btw.

The price quoted was a great deal since the tranny guy said he didn't expect to replace any "hard" parts, which apparently all three major ODrive hard parts were toast and had to be replaced. He mentioned that at another tranny shop this would have cost about $1,900.

The od was probably what all the silver flakes were about!

Also, he replaced the front main seal and the front u-joint while he was there. The UJoint was shot and the main seal was going. Another $75 in parts, no labor. Great guy!

Things I have replaced since I owned it:

radiator bushings Front Wheel bearings shocks alternator rotors and two calipers A/C almost total rebuild Three window gears for the motors Left driver's door pull Master cylinder

FYI

-- Riki

--Those who live by the sword get shot by those who don't.