Fuel Not Getting There, Troubleshoot How?

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Ford Ranger 2001, fuel injected 3L engine
The engine will start if I shoot gas in the air intake, but it won't continue to run. Thus, the cylinders aren't getting fuel.
Since the truck had in the recent past ran out of gas (it might even have ran out of gas on *this* occasion; but that's not the prob now; I put in a quarter tank when I arrived), I suspected the fuel filter. Perhaps it clogged with the sludge from the bottom of the tank. I changed the filter where the truck stalled, but it didn't fix the problem. I now have the truck home.
When the truck stalled, a cute female with compelling breasts was driving. As I understand, several guys came by and played with things under the hood. I don't know if they did anything.
Since the parts stores, which I can't get to easily, were about to close when I came on the scene, as a precaution, I bought a fuel pump relay, but I haven't identified that as the problem.
Anyway, I suppose my next step is to take off the fuel line from the back (going to the tank) of the filter, turn on the engine electric, and see if anything is coming out of the fuel line. I haven't done this yet because it's dark now and a storm came up.
But while I'm waiting for tomorrow, I'd like to educate myself. For starters, which relay in the fuse box under the hood goes to the fuel pump? The replacement one I have could go in three places where there are similar looking relays. There's no indication on the fuse box cover which relay goes to what, and I don't have a manual.
And if anybody can provide any other advice or even sympathy :-), please do. I really (repeat "really" three times) need to get this truck running tomorrow. And tomorrow is Sunday, a bad day for buying parts or calling businesses.
To give all the conditions of the problem, I suppose I should also confess that the budget is limited.
-- (||) Nehmo (||)
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Who cares about the car,
What about the cute female with the compelling breasts
Is she still OK ? Is she your girl friend or sister ? Age ?
Anyway.......
Have somebody turn ignition on (don't start) and listen for fuel pump coming on briefly Check for fuel press. on fuel rail shredder valve ( BE CAREFUL) Take big hammer and slam bottom of fuel tank a couple of times and see if pump starts up
Pump is probably fried, the gasoline helps to cool it down and without fuel press it over revs and overheats
Hmmmm, over heats..... gas tank.......DON'T EVER RUN OUTTA FUEL !!!!!

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So there's a "shredder valve" on the fuel rail? I'll go look right now. What's this valve normally for? Is it just there so you can check pressure? Why is it called "shredder"?
And regarding the girl, I'm afraid I can't do much for you. But I wasn't kidding. This is what I was talking about:
http://img106.imageshack.us/img106/2562/picture0075vo.jpg
-- (||) Nehmo (||)
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That's Schrader valve (also spelled Schraeder valve)... designed by a man named August Schrader... It's sole purpose in life (in the case of your car) is to allow access to the fuel rail for the purpose of fuel pressure testing, injector flow testing, etc. It looks much like the valve on your tire and should have a platic cap on it to keep dirt and debris out of the connection.
If your fuel filter was retricted for any length of time, expect fuel pump concerns.... just like water can erode rocks, fuel can erode pump members..... also, high amp draws associated with heavy pumping can affect the pump motors...
The "hammer on the gas tank trick"... use a rubber mallet.... have an assistant try to start the truck while you are tapping the bottom of the tank.... if the truck starts, there is a concern with the pump motor internal connections or (less likely) a concern with the wiring to the pump motor or the bulkhead connector in the pump mounting flange.
And Johan.... spelling means EVERYTHING... Google "shredder" valve and see what you get.... FWIW, I dropped out of school in grade 8.... I like to present myself correctly (perhaps not politically correctly, but correctly never-the-less). And I even know when I can safely use "colour" instead of "color" and "centre" in place of "center"....
While many search engines are starting to use "fuzzy" logic for spelling, they can only go so far as to deciding what you mean. And... as for what some German name means to us - without this particular German name, how on earth would you get the air into your bicycle tire...
Feelin' frisky and <SIGH>, heading for work.... makes over 30 days without a full day off - my loving bride and the taxman are very pleased with me...

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Don't take this wrong Nehmo, but the last thing I would advise someone to do would be to take a big hammer and go after the gas tank! Zero that idea altogether!
I would although have someone turn the key to the run position just before the starter starts to crank and have someone listen at the gas tank area to see if they here to pump make a niose. It will be like a one second vibrator type noise. ;)... It will not sound like a rear shock air compressor...
Yes that Shredder valve will look like a tire valve normally it will have a cap on it similair to a tire valve. The "BE CAREFUL" comes from when you push it in it is going to fly into the air causing your cigarette to cause an explosion! No smoking during this operation, but if you do get pressure at this point you have other problems.
If it does end up being the fuel pump; find another car for tomorrow, Easter Sunday.
Happy Easter!
Gerald
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gerald2003r wrote:

Nobody knows how to spell "Schrader"?
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Schrader_valve
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I couldn't find the Schrader valve. Are you certain this engine has them? -- (||) Nehmo (||)
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I found the Schrader valve. It had a cap on it. There was no pressure at the valve.
My next step is to find the electrical connection the the pump and see if it's live when it should be.
The cheapest pump I found at the local parts stores was $178 at Autozone with a one day wait. They're identified by year, engine size, ane wheelbase. Mine is 2001, 3.0L, 126".
-- (||) Nehmo (||)
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gerald2003r wrote:

made them. It is ok to "hammer" on the tank if you use a rubber mallet. Have someone crank the engine while you smack the tank with the mallet. This will sometimes jar a stuck pump enough to get the car running. It's NOT a "fix".
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Tom Adkins wrote:

By the way,did you happen to check the Inertia switch? It's in the passenger kick panel area. Some Ranger owners complain that they trip too easily.
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I found the inertia switch. I can't seem to press the recessed reset button though. I think it's all the way down already. I don't know if it means anything, but a small stripe of red shows when you look straight at it.
When the engine is running, it the switch normally open of normally closed?
--
(||) Nehmo (||)


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If you can't press the switch so that it stays in place, it means that it hasn't tripped. When the switch trips, while pressing on the button it should lock and stay in place.
To be honest, these switches are designed to break contact in an accident or hard impact in a collision so that the fuel pump shuts off and does not pump gas all over the wreckage, as well as the could-be trapped occupants of the car.
I would check elsewhere, did you find the fuel pump relay?
Sharky
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Sharky

Nehmo - There are 3 relays similar to the replacement one I bought (assuming that's the right one). The back one clicks when the ignition it turned on. Each one has a little circuit diagram on it - enabling me to test. I bench checked all three, and they all passed. There are also 5 smaller relays. I don't know what they go to.
-- (||) Nehmo (||)
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OK, so aside from the relay, have you checked the manual for a fuse in the fuel pump circuit? Refer to the manual for its' location. I'm not saying that there is one, but if there is it would either be in the fuse panel under the dash or in the distribution block under the hood. If the fuse is good, check the circuit with a test light to see if there is power on it.
If you have power, the fuse is not blown, and you can verify that the relay is working, then that pretty much points to a burned out fuel pump in the tank. Or a loose/corroded connection at the top of the sending unit going into the tank
Good luck, Sharky
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I don't have a manual, but I think all the fuses look OK. I'd like to find out which one it is, though. I called the Ford dealership, Midway Ford, but they weren't helpful. I'll try another dealer Monday. Ford really should put basic repair and maintenance info on the web.
The fuse box cover has each fuse numbered. Does anybody have a diagram?
--
(||) Nehmo (||)


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Nehmo wrote:

There is a fuse diagram in the vehicle owners manual. The manual is available online fron Ford and Helm. What more do you want.
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Tom Adkins

Nehmo - You don't mean "available online"; you mean available for *purchase* online. If that's not what you mean, please provide the link. I'd like to go to the Ford site and look up my wiring diagram or power distribution box layout. Many companies provide the entire service information for their products online. This isn't the case with the auto companies.
But the issue is moot for me now. I'll be able to get the info today.
-- (||) Nehmo (||)
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It turned out the parts store sold me the wrong relay, but the correct one in the truck tests OK. If anybody wants the Ford Ranger 2001 3.0L Battery Junction Box Fuse and Relay Diagram:
http://img424.imageshack.us/my.php?image=fordranger20013lfuse9zr.gif It's in the rear of the box, the second position from the left (first position, the corner, is empty). The fuse is F1.23 , on the right, the second position from the rear. [right and left are the same as the driver's]
--
(||) Nehmo (||)


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Red seems like trip to me as in a curcuit breaker...
Gerald
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gerald2003r wrote:

Schrader valve.
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Schrader_valve
I wondered what a shredder valve was!
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