I'm back and it's still sitting in my garage...

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So, I have taken most of your advice and I am still stationary... The situation is my 93 GT ran well Friday night, but Saturday morning it would
not start and this is what I have done... Any and all advice, suggestions and prayers will be greatly appreciated!!!
Am I getting a spark... Yes, at the two plugs I checked and when I sprayed a lot of starter fluid into the open throttle body it ran at a high idle for about 2 seconds.
Am I getting fuel... Not sure, but fuel pressure is 40 PSI (within specification) at the Schrader valve.
Do I have bad gas... No. I siphoned about a gallon of gas into a big old glass jar and did not see any beads of water at the bottom of the jar.
Pushing the peddle to the floor... Didn't help: I tried pushing the peddle to the floor while cranking the engine and it had no effect.
Do I have a bad fuel filter... Changed it.
Do I have a bad fuel pump... When I tried to extract some fault codes from the ECM by following the directions from www.fordfuelinjection.com, my Check Engine light lit dimly, I heard the fuel pump start, I did not hear any electronic clicks and after 1.5 minutes, the fuel pump was still running. (I checked my STI-to-negative terminal connection and tried it again with the exact same results???
Do I have a bad TFI module... Not the problem; I removed the TFI module and confirmed all of the resistances are within specification.
Checking TFI module for ground and signal... How?
Do I have a bad MAF; unplugging the MAF... Didn't help: I unplugged the MAF and tried starting the car normally and with a lot of starter fluid down the throttle body. In both cases the car behaved just like it did when the MAF was plugged in.
Do I have a bad MAF; swapping the MAF... I have not tried swapping MAF's.
Extracting fault codes... When I tried to extract some fault codes from the ECM by following the directions from www.fordfuelinjection.com, my Check Engine light lit dimly, I heard the fuel pump start, I did not hear any electronic clicks and after 1.5 minutes, the fuel pump was still running. (I checked my STI-to-negative terminal connection and tried it again with the exact same results???
Do I have bad fuel injectors... I have been told to pull a couple to see if they have fouled nozzle tips. This seems easy enough!
The "NOID" test... I assume the two questions "Are the fuel injectors being pulsed?" and "Are the fuel injectors being triggered?" are asking the same thing. I have been told to put a set of "NOID" lights in place of the injectors on the wiring harness and make sure they flash. Do I have to check all eight fuel injectors?
Do I have a bad fuel pressure regulator... I have done nothing with respect to the fuel pressure regulator.
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If it ran well friday and would not start Saturday, that would tend to rule out the Fuel side of things.
Also the MAF, TFI are OK, and probably your injectors are all getting pulsed
It would indicate you have a loose wire or grounded wire.
If a few injectors were fouled it would run rough, and you have to pull the top manifold to get to them, read the codes first.
try the electrical route some more, replace the rotor, cap, and coil. Check the wiring around the coil, and check the battery voltage
Check all vacuume hoses for cracks leaks or fallen off, there is a vacuume canaster passenger side front low in engine bay that has a rubber elbow that expands and gets too loose on 93 and before causes vaccume leak
If battery is below 11.2 you may have battery/altinator problem.
5.0 is very fixable, hang in there.

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99.9% chance it is a fuel problem, not ignition, from what he has cheched. Also better than 90% chance it is an injection related problem, not delivery. My impression is it is an injector control problem. Possibly a bad ECU ground, Possibly a power feed problem to the injectors.
FIRST thing to check is "do you have 12 volts to the injectors" Pull an injector wiring plug and make sure you have 12 volts on at least one side. If you don't, track it down and find out why. You may have 12 volts on both sides. (likely will have) When you crank the engine over, one side should "flash" as the control side is pulled to ground to fire the injector. If it does not pull down check continuity from the injector harness to the ECU, and ECU ground. If both are OK, you've got a bad ECU or possibly a sensor connecton problem, but I can't think of one that would totally kill injection and still provide spark - but I'm not a Ford expert.
I'd be looking first at fuses and relays and fusible links if there is no 12 volts to the injectors.

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On Dec 7, 2:31 pm, clare at snyder.on.ca wrote:

Clare,
You are right on target...
I tested one injector connector with a noid light and did not get a flash.
I also checked the voltage and had 12V on one side and 0V on the other.
Next on my list of things to do is (i) test the coil, and (2) check the ECU (>>> a.k.a. ECM, right? <<<) for proper ground connection.
How would I check for a power feed problem to the injectors?
Should I still crank the engine to see if one side "flashes" as the control side is pulled to ground to fire the injector or has the noid test already predicted the outcome?
I have not been able to find any method for testing the ECU. Any suggestions?

Fuses... Which fuses specifically?
Relays... Just the Fuel Pump Relay? Would the WOT Cut-off Relay come into play? Any other relays affect injector operation?
Fusible Links... Just D or any others?
Thanks!
Joe
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You have checked that. Now concentrate on the ground. LIKELY a fairly heavy black wire from the ECU plug which will ground to the body with a screw. A wiring diagram would really help to find out which wire needs to be grounded, then just back-prod it with a known good ground and see if it starts. The manual/schematic would also tell you exactly where it is supposed to be grounded.

The noid has told you it won't flash. Only other possibility is all injectors burned out, which is not impossible, but EXTREMELY unlikely.

Yiu have eliminated the relays and fuses, with the POSSIBLE exception of the ECU fuse. The ECU can't trigger the injector ground if it is not getting power. Your owners manual should identify the ECU fues (possibly called EFI)

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From the bundle wires from the ECU is a heavy black wire with an uncoated silver strand of wires attached to the chassis.
I disconnected it, sanded the chassis and the connector and reconnected it...
NO CHANGE!
I am now gonna look for the ECU fuse.
Joe
<clare at snyder.on.ca> wrote in message

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Where would I find Fuse Link G; i.e., the ECU fuse???
<clare at snyder.on.ca> wrote in message

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I don't have a manual for your car available, but normally in the fuse-box/junction box in the engine compartment, where the relays live. Could also be in a panel in the kick-panel, or the main fuse box.
On my Mystique there is an engine control fuse. It is a 7.5 amp fuse in the main panel. The pcm keep-alive is in the box by the battery (3 amp) and there is a 20 amp pcm power fuse also in that box. Also a PCM power relay in that box.
Would REALLY help to have a pinout diagram for the ECU. Check for power at thethrottle sensor switch. SHould have 5 volts on one wire with it disconnected and the key on.. If so, CPU is getting power. (at least on the "brain" side. If not, check fuses, but could also still be the ECU.

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I have disconnected sanded and reconnected G104 and G201; could not find G109.
Still no noid flash...
The PCM relay sits on top of the PCM and I actually have gotten the pinpoints out and that's on the agenda for tomorrow.
<clare at snyder.on.ca> wrote in message

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<clare at snyder.on.ca> wrote in message

Clare: FIRST thing to check is "do you have 12 volts to the injectors" ------------------ Joe: I have 12 volts between one side of the injector connector and battery positive. ===========Clare: You may have 12 volts on both sides. If so, when you crank the engine over, one side should "flash" as the control side is pulled to ground to fire the injector. If it does not pull down check continuity from the injector harness to the ECU, and ECU ground. If both are OK, you've got a bad ECU or possibly a sensor connecton problem, but I can't think of one that would totally kill injection and still provide spark. ------------------ Joe: Since I only have it on one side, can I skip the rest of your instructions above? ===========Clare: I'd be looking first at fuses and relays and fusible links if there is no 12 volts to the injectors.
------------------ Joe: Since I have 12 volts between one side of the injector connector and battery positive, can I assume fuses, relays and fusible links are all OK?
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Biggus,
Was I out of line in my response to "My Name Is Nobody"? Just in case I was, rather than allow my Italian temper to move me further down a road I don't want to go, instead of replying to Mr. Johnson, I am simply hoping he can find it in himself to hit the [DELETE] key rather than read any more of my posts.
Thanks, again, for your assistance on this project!
Joe
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TFI - If testing the 6 resistances called for in Chilton's is conclusive, then yes, the TFI is OK since all of the resistances were in spec.
Injectors - I tested one injector connection with a noid tester and it did not flash, but I also checked the voltage at the connector... one side had 12V and the other side had 0V.

Given this additional information, would you still focus on a loose wire or a grounded wire or look somewhere else?

I could not pull any codes with my OBD1 code reader. It simply never entered test mode.

I have not replaced the rotor, cap or coil... perhaps I should check the coil, at least.

Wiring seems fine; battery is in good shape.

Done, everything seems to be in good order.

Battery reads 12.9; that said, after trying to run the code tester, the voltage had dropped, but I was able to recharge the battery at 2A in a matter of minutes.

Thanks for your encouragement!
Joe
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You either have a bad connection between the injectors and the ECU, a bad ECU or a bad ECU ground. The bad ECU ground is the most likely and easiest to test/fix. You need a schematic to find out which wire is supposed to be grounded, then just ground it.
The fact that the code light flashed dim would lead me to believe the ground is the problem.

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Joe Colella wrote:

There is one possibility and that is a bad computer. The computer in my '89 LX died at around 1,000 miles so it is possible.
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wrote:

Yes, but unless you check all the sensors and sub-systems and those tests all point back to the computer, save that for dead last - yes it's possible, but it's a vanishingly small chance, "Man Bites Dog" rare. And the computers are rather expensive and not returnable.
The last thing you do before replacing the computer is to unplug the computer wiring harnesses and wiggle when you plug them back in. A little oxidation on one low-level sensor signal pin, or a low-level output line that pulls up a critical relay...
Plugs, plug wires, cap and rotor are normal wear items that need to be done occasionally anyway.
Hook up the Noid Lights and make sure it's pulsing, hook up a pressure gauge and do a Pressure AND Flow test on the fuel pump and pressure regulator - you crack a valve to fill a quart/liter jar in a specified time while watching that the fuel pump is holding at or above the specified pressure. Filling the quart jar doesn't work if the pressure drops to zero in the process.
I think you said it starts for a few seconds on Ether (Starting Fluid), that means it's getting ignition and likely a fuel issue.
--<< Bruce >>--
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Bruce L. Bergman wrote:

Just plug in a working computer and see if the car starts. Get one from a junk yard.

As was mentioned before, it could be the ECU isn't firing the injectors. IMO, the guy needs to get the car to a Ford dealer and let them diagnose it. There is a reason they have all that fancy equipment sitting around.
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another thing it could be is the solenoid, unless the engine turns over some when trying to start. If solenoid is gone, nothing happens, EZ to replace. Next to Coil, main power distribution block. I had a flaky one it would start, and sometimes nothing at all. Solenoid had a loose wire inside it.
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It runs for a few seconds when shot with starter fluid...
Can I skip the solenoid?
Thanks!
Joe
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You are on the right track the solenoid is NOT your problem. Was never a possibility.
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<clare at snyder.on.ca> wrote in message

if it did not crank at all, it is the most likely. But joe can't tell us everything by posting stuff

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